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First tip in getting someone to respond to you is not talk about them in the third person as if they can't read what you're writing guys
It's also just polite. 
beaslbob":1n8p0exy said:Matt_Wandell":1n8p0exy said:I plan on doing a tank to Bob's specifications, and we will see how it does. I'm being completely serious here. These are the specs:
6 gallon tank, filled with a 2" fine sand bed and probably about 4 gallons of water.
Dechlorinated tap water mixed with Instant Ocean.
No water changes.
No heater.
No artificial light. It's in a window that receives about 6 hours of direct sunlight daily.
No skimmer, no carbon, no biowheel, no phosphate remover.
An airpump will provide a moderate amount of water current.
The planned livestock are some Red Mangroves (hey, ACTUAL plant life!!) added on the first day of the system of course. I may add a small goby and pistol shrimp later on down the road. I will also be topping off with RO/DI water every day when I spray off the leaves of the mangrove. I may add some upside down jellies also.
Bob,
I'd like your input on this. Would you say this is "your" method?
Well pretty close. "my" method is to get the plant life thriving then do the rest. Not sure about "air plants" like mangroves. Never tried that. My concern is they may be using energy in the seed pod to start instead of nutrients from the water. an even bigger concern is they are not waterplants and therefore probably not removing carbon dioxide from the water and adding oxygen. I would feel it was more "my" method with macros/plants that were submerged.
but you get it established it should out compete the algaes for nutrients (except co2).
I don't see any need to dechlorinate the water. But then I always have aquatic plant life also.
Well except for the beta vases. the peace lillies are plants.
Be sure to adjust the light to allow the plant life to thrive but prevent the micro blooms. Generally that takes a huge amount of light especially until the nutrients are controlled. But 6 hours may be about right.
the main thing was that I would use some fast growing macros at least at first to insure the co2 and o2 are better.Matt_Wandell":24mfyat6 said:Bob,
I'm curious if there is anything different about the tank I'm setting up that you would do differently.
my methods has flaws. there happy :lol: What do you mean by do well? If the plants grow well, there is limited to no nusiance algaes, and animals thirve are you willing to admit it worked?Are you willing to admit your method has flaws if my tank doesn't do well?
sure your system. I just don't and haven't for years. Do you know how the dechlorinator works? what chemicals are added? or is it just an additive that sounds good? And have you researched how long chlorine (and ammonia) remain in an open heavily planted aquarium? But we just have different experiencesAdmittedly I don't believe your methods are good husbandry, but on the other hand I have a vested interest to try and make the tank look good.
Is it OK that I use dechlorinator? I'm really not comfortable putting chlorine in my tank.
I use straight tap. After the system has been running and balanced out the only diference should be simple more plant life and less dosing if you use tap.What about RO/DI for topoff, or at least a mixture of tap/RO/DI?
Are you sure? my Fw planted and beta vases evaporate 5-10% per week. the quart jars I tried to culture micro algae only evaporated about 1" per week. I think you will find the with very little circulation the evaporation will be much less than reef tank with external sumps/refugiums or trickle filters. And you should need even less circulation if you are using mangroves which are vascular plants and therefore provide a very slow circulation.This tank will be evaporating a very large percentage of water.
yes. But they will take time to establish the roots and the like. They should provide excellent handling of nutrients and bioaccumulation of toxins. Just they don't remove carbon dioxide and add oxygen to the water column. So my "gut" feel some fast growing macros like cheato would be beneficial especially during the first few weeks.The mangroves will already be sprouted, and will go in the tank the day it is set up. Is this thriving?
Since this is only costing me about $50, I find it hard to believe you won't do it yourself. Heck, it would only cost you $10 for the tank if you have an air pump, some lights, and some plant life already available, which I'm sure you must. Space? Put it in your garage. You must have a square foot of space somewhere in your house.
beaslbob":1evz3s95 said:So by:
1) using cold water
2) from a frequently used faucet
3) and allowing the water to run for a minute before collecting
, you vastly limit the copper in the water you are using.
Guy":n72mpb69 said:beaslbob":n72mpb69 said:So by:
1) using cold water
2) from a frequently used faucet
3) and allowing the water to run for a minute before collecting
, you vastly limit the copper in the water you are using.
This is worthy of a new thread. I'll post it.
Righty":3dpzug3i said:Matt,
I think if you are going to do this you need to go all the way and do what Bob says he does. Water straight from the tap, no declorination. If you cut any corners, you aren't replicating what Bob says he does.
Matt_Wandell":1be4rfad said:Apparently octopods are better at absorbing toxins than plant life![]()
Actually I never recommend skimming. Much better to spend the money on a larger system to start off with.
more macros. :wink:vitz":3kh3d4nz said:beaslbob wrote:
Actually I never recommend skimming. Much better to spend the money on a larger system to start off with.
bwaaaaaaaaaaaaahaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahahahahahahhahaha :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
so what happens when the larger system reaches the same level of dissolved organics as a small system ?