New Aquarist, New Tank
- Thread starter Aggie04
- Start date
Also, should a protein skimmer be a definite investment? If so, how soon (during cycle w/ live rock or once I have fish)? It seems that everyone raves about them, but never mention cannister filters as worthwile investments.
I have a small powerhead that does 150 gph, and I assumed my canister filter with 300 gph in addition would be enough flow. Do I need more flow/current?
I have a small powerhead that does 150 gph, and I assumed my canister filter with 300 gph in addition would be enough flow. Do I need more flow/current?
Yes, lights 12 hours a day. A protein skimmer is so useful that I do not recommend you go without one. Unless you're committed to do *lots* of water changes (say 15%-20% weekly), and even then your bioload may overwhelm your tank and get all kind of nasties (algae, sick corals, etc.).
There are some experts that go without skimmers, but they're very good at balancing the inputs and outputs in their systems. After the first 2-3 years and after you figure out other ways of getting your nutrients out of the system you may go ahead and be skimmer-less but until then a skimmer is a very useful device (perhaps the most useful after live rock). Canister filters - not so hot - they tend to clog with detritus and become nitrate factories in no time (unless you run them with no media and use them as pumps really).
M.
There are some experts that go without skimmers, but they're very good at balancing the inputs and outputs in their systems. After the first 2-3 years and after you figure out other ways of getting your nutrients out of the system you may go ahead and be skimmer-less but until then a skimmer is a very useful device (perhaps the most useful after live rock). Canister filters - not so hot - they tend to clog with detritus and become nitrate factories in no time (unless you run them with no media and use them as pumps really).
M.
You should provide enough lights that things grow yet you get no cloudy/green water. Shouldn't be all that critical.
I don't like or recommend skimmers. I much prefer to get strong biological filtration built up with plant life consuming the end products. For instance I would much rather rinse my $.10/pound filter media once per week than empty skimmer cups. Plus skimmers need cleaning and adjustments also.
I don't like or recommend skimmers. I much prefer to get strong biological filtration built up with plant life consuming the end products. For instance I would much rather rinse my $.10/pound filter media once per week than empty skimmer cups. Plus skimmers need cleaning and adjustments also.
Bobs tank hasnt looked too healthy every time I have seen it so I would take his advice witha grain of salt. Seems to me he doesn't understand the idea of a protien skimmer ( and probably never used one to save $)and believes in cutting corners at every chance. I clean my skimmer cup once a week, if that is too much work then get out of the hobby. He likes to prey on the newbies who may think his ideas make sense. Every book out there on reef aquaria will suggested a skimmer for a good reason.
The protien skimmer will be your main filtration so don't skimp on it. Stay away from cheapo models like the seaclone.
For books I still like The Reef Aquarium Vol 1 and 2.
The protien skimmer will be your main filtration so don't skimp on it. Stay away from cheapo models like the seaclone.
For books I still like The Reef Aquarium Vol 1 and 2.
Lighting is one of you most critical choices. Seeing that you are just starting out, after you do some reading get an idea of what type of corals you would like to keep. IF it is FO lighting isnt important, but with a reef tank it is a huge consideration. Softies do well under PC or VHO and can be fine under NO but I would recommend starting with either, T5, PC, or VHO for a soft coral reef tank.
JMO!
Running an AquaC Remora Pro with an MJ1200 & pre-fliter box here. This is in addition to an Eheim Professionel II cannister (loaded w/ crushed live rock, Rowaphos & Boyd's Chemi-pure), & a 10g fuge with live rock & macros (NO caulerpa!). BTW I am not anti-caulerpa, per se, just prefer macros that aren't so prolific. If there is one caulerpa I suggest all aquarists destroy, it is Taxifolia.
If you are running FO you will want plae for the fish to swim all over, 20-25 lbs of figi should be plenty. 30-35+ for a reef tank. Figi is lighter weight rock though so it will go further then say tonga or caribbean based rock would. $3.99 is a good price for it.
I just added 20lbs of liverock to my new 30g. It is starting to look like a real aquarium! I tested my water, and everything was dead-on except alkalinity, which was way high. As I understand, this is ok because the liverock will help bring it back to acceptable levels. Now it is time to wait, with occasional water tests to make sure everything is in line.
Just for clarification, I believe that Bob's rock is limestone from a quarry... not LR (even though it may be slighty live now), nor previously aquacultured. I read this info in a thread a while back while I was figuring out LR in general. It's a little misleading and I didn't want anyone to really think that you could get Live Rock for $20/ton 8O (not that anyone would)
Cheers - Jamison
Cheers - Jamison
I would just let it cycle on its own. I think a big part of what make problems for new tanks is all the messing with it!
If you can, just leave it alone for a month or so before doing anything.
Another book I recommend is Debleek and Sprungs 'The Reef Aquarium' volume 1. Reads like a text book, full of info!
If you can, just leave it alone for a month or so before doing anything.
Another book I recommend is Debleek and Sprungs 'The Reef Aquarium' volume 1. Reads like a text book, full of info!
Sponsor Reefs
We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.
Click here to sponsor $10:
