New Aquarist, New Tank

[Anonymous]

OK a simple Google on "Nitrite Toxicity" ---> http://www.google.com/search?biw=940&hl ... e+toxicity

http://petplace.netscape.com/Articles/a ... ?artID=368

"Brackish and marine fish are not particularly susceptible to nitrite toxicity since chloride salts compete with nitrite for uptake at the gill lamellar surface. In fact, adding salt to the aquarium is a standard treatment for nitrite toxicity. " by Dr. Greg Lewbart petplace.com

 

[Anonymous]

Here's a good read ---> http://www.petsforum.com/cis-fishnet/se ... SS1605.htm

 

[ChrisRD]

I have always assumed (until recently) that nitrite was fairly toxic in saltwater too. It is often stated in hobby literature, and thinking back to the days when people cycled tanks with live fish - it did seem that a big nitrite spike could be sensed by the fish. During the nitrite peak of the initial tank cycle I have seen fish stop eating, hide and otherwise act "uncomfortable", so to me that seemed like confirmation that nitrite was dangerous for them. In reality I guess it would take much higher levels to actually kill the fish.

Randy's recent article:

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-06/rhf/index.htm

 

[Anonymous]

Huh, well you learn something new every day!

I must admit I always thought Nitrite was toxic like ammonia. Read it in a book and heard it repeated enough times.

 

[Aggie04]

I believe I was thinking about the Orchid vs. the purple dotty, I didn't know they came in just "purple", but the choice is obvious!

Here is another thought. My girlfriend is about to have a spare 10g. Should I turn it into a sump, instead of getting the skimmer (which could be added later)? Would the cost be significantly more/less than getting a Bak-pak? I don't know enough about sumps (I can learn) to know if it would be an acceptable/better replacement for a skimmer at this time. I do know you can always add one later, or add it to the sump.

 

[Anonymous]

Wow....learn something new all of the time.

I didnt have the experience of using fish, so I never saw them go through a cycle.

From everything I was told and read, a cycle isnt completed until amm and trites are at zero, and trates are on the way down to zero.

I really wish there would be a final answer, and that literature was more consistent with such an important fact.

I guess, when everything is said and done, that while it may not be that toxic, it should still be avoided to add livestock at that point since it seems that it can still have a small effect on health, and a fish that may not be 100% and added to such levels could be the one who really suffers.

Thanks Guy and Chris, i learned something new today

 

[Ben1]

A sump wouldnt replace anything, it would give you place to put things. Imagine a tank with a skimmer hanging on it, a heater in it, a thermometer, and then where do you run carbon, maybe a HOT filter also. With a sump all that is in the sump giving you a place to get it all out of the show tank.

It also increases circulation in the main tank and adds a smalll amount of extra water to the total system volume.

 

[Anonymous]

I guess, when everything is said and done, that while it may not be that toxic, it should still be avoided..

Absolutely. Detected Nitrite means that without a doubt, the tank is biologically unstable.

 

[Anonymous]

Guy...You are rarely wrong, and actually I haven't ever seen a post that was wrong by you...except this one.

Well, is my credibility still intact?

Actually, what I'm surprised about is that I have been stating Nitrite isn't the deadly saltwater beast all the books say it is for years over on saltwaterfish.com and you're the first person to ever call me on it. After all those posts in direct conflict with the status quo nobody has even given it a second thought, until you. Either that or they ignored me as a crackpot. Congratulations! I think it's quite outstanding that you challenge to the point of understanding instead of just taking someone's word for it.

 

[Anonymous]

Guy...You are rarely wrong, and actually I haven't ever seen a post that was wrong by you...except this one.

Well, is my credibility still intact?

Actually, what I'm surprised about is that I have been stating Nitrite isn't the deadly saltwater beast all the books say it is for years over on saltwaterfish.com and you're the first person to ever call me on it. After all those posts in direct conflict with the status quo nobody has even given it a second thought, until you. Either that or they ignored me as a crackpot. Congratulations! I think it's quite outstanding that you challenge to the point of understanding instead of just taking someone's word for it.

Absolutely it's intact...I'll take someones experiences over a book anytime if I think they are genuine, and they have proven themselves to be correct on many occassions.
Ya know, its funny, I thought you may have been the same "guy", but I didint want to mention the other board over here or over there...didnt know if you had 2 sperate lives or something and didnt want to get caught lol! So I kinda just acted like you were 2 sperate people.
I dont think anyone ignored, and certainly not a crackpot! I'm not sure why someone wouldnt challenge something someone said vs. everything they thought to be true. See? Maybe you just have such power and wisdom, no one would dare q the great Guy!
Thanks though, you have helped me a real lot in this hobby, probably more than anyone else. 8)

 

[Aggie04]

Ok today I made a few discoveries. The first was obvious, and not so welcome. Brown algae spots on the sand. I blame the tap water (about 60%, the rest is RO). Should I just let it continue to sit? Or should I do a water change with some more RO water?

The second discovery was three feather dusters, each about a quarter of an inch long. They were definitely a more pleasant find.

 

[Ben1]

The brown stuff on the sand is most likely cuno or datoms. Diatoms generally form on the glass and look like a thin powdery brown film. Cynobacteria is usualy a rust red color and forms in thicker mats trapping bubbles.

Cyno could mean you need to lower nutrients and increase circulation along with adding some clean up critters to stir the sand like a fighting conch.

Diatoms are from silicates and although are normal you need to be sure it isnt forming to fast. Nothing a bunch of astreas wont clean up.

 

[Aggie04]

Update:

I have plenty of brown algae (diatoms?), a couple small red-legged hermits, 4 small turbos, 3 medium turbos, and a brand new CPR Bakpak.

The skimmer and 3 medium turbos are new today. I was thinking about taking out the bio-filter medium in the CPR and putting some macro algae in it. Would that be wise or advisable? All my levels are good in my tank (according to the places I have taken my water to be tested), so would it probably be ok to add a fish or two next week? The tank has been cycling for 3 weeks now.

 

[Anonymous]

Your tank is probably far from stable but a fish would probably survive in it.

If it were me I would first go buy my own test kits for PH and Ammonia. I would the proceed to feed the tank fish food for a couple of weeks just as if I had my first fish already in there. If Ammonia is zero for the entire second week then a hardy fish can be added.

Doing it this way will reduce the stress of the newly introduced fish and give it a much better chance for surving the first week in your tank.

 

[Aggie04]

Ok, feed the tank first to make sure it handles the new load.

On the skimmer, how long does it take for the bubbles/foam to make its way to the top of the funnel? It hardly seems to be collecting at all in the funnel, bubbles just pop inside of it, barely above the water surface, without climbing much at all.

Nevermind, I found that it works better if it isn't full open! I guess I want the bubbles to come just to the top and not all spill over, or what? The directions that came with the box don't say much.

 

[Anonymous]

Ok, feed the tank first to make sure it handles the new load.

Yes. It will also grow more nitrifying bacteria to handle the fish load when it comes.

I can't help you with the BacPac. No foam in a new tank typically means the bubbles are too few or too large.

 

[Anonymous]

It can take up to a week for a skimmer to start producing skimmate. I have found that the best way to run a bak pak is to add an airstone and forget the venturi. I can try to find a pic on how to do this next week.

 

[Aggie04]

I am in luck. My girlfriend no longer needs a 10g she has. My plan:

Use the 10g as a sump/refugium. It has a light already. I can use my cannister filter as a pump (right?), so all I need is a hang-on overflow box. Put some macro algae in the sump. Any suggestions on what kind to put? The two LFS in my area that I called have Caulerpa and "the bubble kind". Does this sound feasable?

 

[Ben1]

Get a mag drive 7 or 9 and a U tube design overflow box. Use cheato not caulerpa as it can be very invasive and ruin a tank. Cheato can be had for free from other reefers or just a few $ for USPS shipping. It doesnt have hold fast so if by some chance some where to get in your main display you wouldnt need to worry. Go to Lowes or HD and get some 100% silicon sealent
and acrylic to make some baffles for the 10 gal.

This is where I got my 9.5, and I just use a ball valve on the return so my overflow can handle it, you may or may not need this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 5&tc=photo