• Why not take a moment to introduce yourself to our members?

A

Anonymous

Guest
Looks like things are progressing well. Like the broader leaf plants as well.

After a few months those slower growing plants should expand and basically fill up the tank.

Lots people use drift wood for decorations. to give the tank a natural look.

But Just a bout any rocks can be used. Especially if you go slow and let the plant life consume any minerals being released from the rocks.

Or you could just set the rocks in another container and let them soak in water for a week or two.

but overall it sounds like you are well on your way.

After all many people at the 4-6 week point are already complaining about algae, changing filters, and so on. Your tank doesn't seem to have any of those problems.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
rocks can contain mineral/metal deposits that may be unsafe for tanks, in addition to other 'materials' deposited on them from outside-it's best to obtain decorations form your local store, until you become familiar with what rocks can contain, and how to recognize the signs of the ores they might have.

your leaves look like the plants may need abit of iron, or got abit 'burned at some point

you should add at least two more hiding spots for your sharks, or they will eventually fight until one gets very beat up

try posting smaller pics, so we don't have to scroll the page right and left to read the thread :D
 

ozboy22

Experienced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
In need of help quick smart
one of the sharks has what looks to me to be Ick
lots of small spots on him he has be remove and taken to a freinds spare tank
and one of the plattys has left the tank due to a death
all other fish have been removed and place in a small tank
i read that salt would be a treatment on this ,
just wanted to now if there's any other treat that would be good to know
and the affects on the plants
i have no idea on what to do for now ethier does my friend as he has never had a freshwater tank ony salt
would anyone have any links to help on this problem
thanks
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
ich cannot survive a temperature of 86°F

your fish and plants can

slowly (over 1-2 days)raise the temp to 86° and leave it there for 4 weeks

maybe you stocked the tank too quickly ? :wink:
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
The only time I have used salt was on a white cottony fungas on mollys. It did cure the fungas in a few hours, but then mollys are a fresh and saltwater fish. So I kept them in a brackish system.

The safest thing to do is just to keep fish out of the tank for three weeks. To allow any ich to die off.

that said, the only safe assumption is that there will always be at least a single ich present in any tank. the fish in the tank just have to be immune to that.

4 fish in a 50g should not have been too much bioload.

My concern is the presence of the two redtail sharks. I think they simply were stressed trying to fighure out where their territories were. Hence the ich on one.

And stressed out the plattys as well.

So give it a little time. reintroduce the plattys. Without the sharks they should do better.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
beaslbob":w3iecdch said:
The only time I have used salt was on a white cottony fungas on mollys. It did cure the fungas in a few hours, but then mollys are a fresh and saltwater fish. So I kept them in a brackish system.


are you recommending salt? because it will destroy his plants


The safest thing to do is just to keep fish out of the tank for three weeks. To allow any ich to die off.

didn't you recommend he immediately add a platy? now you recommend he remove it? where to?

that said, the only safe assumption is that there will always be at least a single ich present in any tank. the fish in the tank just have to be immune to that.

that is a patently false statement

4 fish in a 50g should not have been too much bioload.

if there were no ammonia eating bacteria present, and there was a spike, you were wrong(which could very well have happened even with one fish, let alone 4-at the best-you have absolutely no way of knowing

My concern is the presence of the two redtail sharks. I think they simply were stressed trying to fighure out where their territories were. Hence the ich on one.

And stressed out the plattys as well.

why would the shark stress out the platy? :roll:

So give it a little time. reintroduce the plattys. Without the sharks they should do better.

ozboy, my responses to beaslebob's o so as usuall highly incorrect and misleading misinformation are hi-lighted in boldface type.
 

ozboy22

Experienced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
ok thought that was not to shore on the salt
ok so i turn the water up slowing over a few day's

sad news there only two fish left
1 shark
1 platty the biggest of the 3 of them
ok
so trun the heat to 86o over two days for 3 weeks gotyou
thanks
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
ozboy22":3dv8keqf said:
ok thought that was not to shore on the salt

A little salt will make any Nitrite slightly less toxic but as stated, it won't cure Ick and it will damage most plants.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
vitz":2c9pahvy said:
beaslbob":2c9pahvy said:
The only time I have used salt was on a white cottony fungas on mollys. It did cure the fungas in a few hours, but then mollys are a fresh and saltwater fish. So I kept them in a brackish system.
are you recommending salt? because it will destroy his plants
nope.
The safest thing to do is just to keep fish out of the tank for three weeks. To allow any ich to die off.
didn't you recommend he immediately add a platy? now you recommend he remove it? where to?
That was the safest thing. Not the only thing
that said, the only safe assumption is that there will always be at least a single ich present in any tank. the fish in the tank just have to be immune to that.
that is a patently false statement
so would suggest a safer assumption. Or a better way to handle ich?
4 fish in a 50g should not have been too much bioload.
if there were no ammonia eating bacteria present, and there was a spike, you were wrong(which could very well have happened even with one fish, let alone 4-at the best-you have absolutely no way of knowing

I trust the reader of this statement can judge for themselves.

a direct question to vitz:

Are you stating that the plant life does not consume ammonia directly?


It is my position and experience that it does an prevents the nitrogen cycle regardless of aerobic bacteria present.

My concern is the presence of the two redtail sharks. I think they simply were stressed trying to fighure out where their territories were. Hence the ich on one.

And stressed out the plattys as well.
why would the shark stress out the platy? :roll:
Because a peaceful non territorial toothless fish like a platty has little defense against an toothed agressive highly territorial fish like a redtail shark.
So give it a little time. reintroduce the plattys. Without the sharks they should do better.

ozboy, my responses to beaslebob's o so as usuall highly incorrect and misleading misinformation are hi-lighted in boldface type.

Look, what happened is he introduced the sharks along with the plattys. My recomendation is for 1 fish and specifically peaceful live bearers. but highly territorial toothed agressive fish like the sharks should have been either 1 or 5 not anything in between. With two the stronger beatup on the weaker and the tank did not have enough plant life to provide cover and break up the tank so each could have it's own territory.

So now he is down to one shark, one platty and is adding more plants. I wish it way just the platty but this combination should do much better.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
beaslbob":1c95rv27 said:
vitz":1c95rv27 said:
beaslbob":1c95rv27 said:
The only time I have used salt was on a white cottony fungas on mollys. It did cure the fungas in a few hours, but then mollys are a fresh and saltwater fish. So I kept them in a brackish system.
are you recommending salt? because it will destroy his plants
nope.
The safest thing to do is just to keep fish out of the tank for three weeks. To allow any ich to die off.
didn't you recommend he immediately add a platy? now you recommend he remove it? where to?
That was the safest thing. Not the only thing
that said, the only safe assumption is that there will always be at least a single ich present in any tank. the fish in the tank just have to be immune to that.
that is a patently false statement
so would suggest a safer assumption. Or a better way to handle ich?
4 fish in a 50g should not have been too much bioload.
if there were no ammonia eating bacteria present, and there was a spike, you were wrong(which could very well have happened even with one fish, let alone 4-at the best-you have absolutely no way of knowing

I trust the reader of this statement can judge for themselves.

a direct question to vitz:

Are you stating that the plant life does not consume ammonia directly?


It is my position and experience that it does an prevents the nitrogen cycle regardless of aerobic bacteria present.

My concern is the presence of the two redtail sharks. I think they simply were stressed trying to fighure out where their territories were. Hence the ich on one.

And stressed out the plattys as well.
why would the shark stress out the platy? :roll:
Because a peaceful non territorial toothless fish like a platty has little defense against an toothed agressive highly territorial fish like a redtail shark.
So give it a little time. reintroduce the plattys. Without the sharks they should do better.

ozboy, my responses to beaslebob's o so as usuall highly incorrect and misleading misinformation are hi-lighted in boldface type.

Look, what happened is he introduced the sharks along with the plattys. My recomendation is for 1 fish and specifically peaceful live bearers. but highly territorial toothed agressive fish like the sharks should have been either 1 or 5 not anything in between. With two the stronger beatup on the weaker and the tank did not have enough plant life to provide cover and break up the tank so each could have it's own territory.

So now he is down to one shark, one platty and is adding more plants. I wish it way just the platty but this combination should do much better.

I trust the reader of this statement can judge for themselves.

nice cop out, as usual, your backpedaling and avoiding a comittal to an actual answer simply digusts me, and fill me with nothing but contempt for your irresponsibility to the consequences of your half understood conceptions as to how things really work, and how they affect others who accept your 'advice' as if taken from a knowledgeable source.

i would highly suggest you first understand the concepts and explanations fully yourself, before attempting to explain how to do things to others-if you were an employee of mine in a pet store, you would have been fired within 2 days for your gross irresponsibility to customers with your 1/2 baked advice and explanations

a direct question to vitz:

Are you stating that the plant life does not consume ammonia directly?

i've said no such thing-you still cannot know the production rate or the uptake rate as definite numerical values, and there was a defnite risk that the former could exceed the latter-using a handful of aquariums that you'
ve taken care of or setup, with NO quantifiable testing, as stated by yourself, does not constitute a viable knowledge base with which to form a valid opininion for generalization

i've 'bent the rules' on my own setups many times, it doesn't mean it's something i recommend to do- especially to beginners :idea:

i've stated many times on this board that plants prefer ther nitrogen directly as ammonia-i believe you've had to have this explain to you here on this BB, iirc

if temp is kept at 86° for 4 weeks in any FW tank-all of the ich will be killed-period, end of discussion

if ozboy had setup the tank as recommended with a filter, heater, and followed PROPER stocking setup procedure-none of this would have happened, most likely-any fair beginners book has all of the info necessary

i've never added fish to a tank untill all of the filtration (whether it be by machine, or plants), and temperature issues have FIRST been ESTABLISHED-adding ammonia producers before knowing that the ammonia will be metabolised properly is far more likely the source of stress that predisposes any fish to ich, rather than the mere presence of a redtail shark, which has little to no stress on a platy :roll:

you're mentioning of the teeth issue is ludicrous-platys have teeth, you moron-it's a member of the 'live bearing tooth carp' family :lol:

it probably has more teeth to lip ratio than the shark :lol:
 

ozboy22

Experienced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
hi guys chill out a bit
not everyones right
everyone has differnt views on differnt things ,sum things work for others sum don't
Anyway try this out for size i was on my lunch break and went to the store where i got the fish from just looking around
that was until i spot the platty's on a closer look boom small white spots on a few of them , So me beening me look at a few more tank's
and what seem to me was 3 other tanks had the same thing in it
So 4 tanks with fish in them had small white spots
so
i dont not take to much notice of this when i bought my fish home untill the spots where very noticeable
,so that gives to show i will never by my fish from there again
not only that snails in me plants to. thier s like at least 4 running around now that seen all at the same time
now 5 day's went bye before the ick was seen could i have bought a platty with ick all ready on it ,
on other note's i had 2 put the shark and hte platty back in the tank
i been keeping a very close look at them nd no sign's of any spots as yet ,
the tanks at 30 and will be put upto 32 thats the highest the heater gets for 4 weeks just to make shore thatthe ick is gone
thanks all
you both have strong views on your ways so stop baging each other out and support your diifernt ways in fish keeping
 

ozboy22

Experienced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
hi all
just um update
went past the store today it was closed lol
wonder why ????????????????????
never will i be going thier
any got a master test kit today
done sum test (my son smashed a part of the lid while doing it ,got most of the glass out not sure sure if this would affect the fish any idea's ???
the test result are as followed
1 Ammonia = o ppm
2 ph = 7.0
3 Nitrite = 5.0ppm (looks a bit high but )
4 Nitrate = 160ppm
all test were do twice just to check
just reading thought the book now any idea's what should be done next
thanks
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Nothing too surprising there.

As I stated I never measure Fw but from salt experience nitrItes tend to be a laging indicator. They always "peg the test kit" for a few days then drop to 0 in a day or two. But that is with no food being added to the system. When I did feed the fish nitrItes would last for weeks.

Nitrates are high. With the 0 ammonia that indicates the plant life is currently consuming ammonia over nitrates.

With NitrItes being produced aerobic bacteria is converting some ammonia to nitrItes.

So it basically looks like you needed more plant life at the beginning.

But you have added some and the plant life is growing. So in a week or two nitrItes will be 0 and nitrAtes tending down. And in a month they will all be 0. Just a normal planted tank establishing itself.

Resist the urge to feed. and keep an eye out for nusiance algaes or cloudy water. You need to provide enough lighting to keep the plants growing yet not allow the nusiance algaes to "bloom". If that happens reduce the lighting until the water clears and/or the algaes die off.

but overall not anything too surprising.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
lol


all i can say here is...

i'll let you go on recieving advice from the dolt that says that platys have no teeth, without contradicting anything else further :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

ozboy22

Experienced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
vitsz
please help
you have been giving me sum a advice thats made my freashwater tank a joy ?
i am not just taking advice of beasbob and doing it i am taking all your advice doing sum research on the point's you guy's make out to me where i will then,make a choice on the best result that i got from my reseach and apply it
so i am not taking ethier one of your side's and doing it ,
i trying try learn differnt method's of keeping the fish tank right ,
that suit's me
i jion this site as i thought you guy's would help in my newbie days of fish keeping
,on other notes i get the tank to 31dregrees and maintaining it it was hard getting it there but got it thier
so now i need to wait 3 weeks for the ick to finsh it's cycle
,would those temps hurt the fish
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Ok im coming in late to this...Vitz is pretty knowledgable in this field but i want to say something..I think starting out with a FW planted tank as a beginner without proper equipment is a mistake and if you are try some easy plants like anacharis...why not try a community tank with some easy to keep cherry barbs or danios? I hate seeing new aquarists lose interest in a hobby due to bad advise or starting too quickly...I think the plants you have especially the swords are gonna require more intense lighting then NO flourescents..I could be wrong...But through experience, they dont do as well..I currently keep a couple swords under NO and they dont do as well as they could

Vitz":2vu1qrjw said:
i'll let you go on recieving advice from the dolt that says that platys have no teeth
and they're egg layers too :lol:

Ozz":2vu1qrjw said:
not everyones right
everyone has differnt views on differnt things ,sum things work for others sum don't
That can be true, but some of us have more experience then others...I also believe when you're new, the trendy ways (usually safer) are a better approach...keep in mind on the bulletin boards, nobody is trying to sell you something..I cant vouch for any of Vitz's tanks, but i can vouch for his advice since i agree with alot of the stuff he states..Again experience..i have 16 yrs experience in FW and i dont know quite abit still, i do know enough :D ...
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
as for 31degrees, im assuming (of course you are) talking about Celcius as everything in your tank would be dead if it were Farenheit...31degrees is awfully high IMO but i guess it will kill ich...id rather treat the tank with chemicals in this instance then trying to raise the temp but thats me...Plants will be fine, fish a tad stressed but should work out ok..i hate stressing anything if i can avoid it...
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
oh sorry one last thing..the higher the temp, the lower the O2 level will be, thats what will stress the fish out more...Im a fisherman too so i kinda see it work..fish go to shallower waters at higher temps..the shallow water has a higher O2 content then the deeper water...just some knowledge :D
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I feel there is a better "solution" then adding $100s worth of noisy equipment in a tank that is in the bedroom.

especially in a tank that has been setup for over a month with no algae problems and no ammonia.

The only thing "wrong" was was the addition of two (not 1 or 5 or more) territorial fish.

What will happen now is the plants will take off and the aquarium will thrive.
 

Sponsor Reefs

We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.

Click here to sponsor $10:


Top