- Location
- 11507 Albertson, Long Island
hey j
sorry to hear about it
let me know if I could help
sorry to hear about it
let me know if I could help
Jarrett Sharks New 220gal Office Tank
- Thread starter JARRETT SHARK
- Start date
- Location
- FREEPORT,LONG ISLAND
yes, i only realy have only sps, maybe 2-3 acans and 2 toads the rest SPS colonies
brand new Refractometer and checked with old one,
its real crazy because i would say its alk or a heater broke,etc...but this is my only other idea what it could be???
- Location
- long island
check the alk the cal reactor. stop the pellets feed. no water changes build back up the bact in the tank.
Run carbon, do you think it coul be a bact. infection in the tank.
Run carbon, do you think it coul be a bact. infection in the tank.
- Location
- Union Square, NY
How are the corals dying exactly?
What are you using to test alk?
What is the ph of your reactor and when was the last time you calibrated the probe?
I really doubt it is something related to the pellets.
What are you using to test alk?
What is the ph of your reactor and when was the last time you calibrated the probe?
I really doubt it is something related to the pellets.
- Location
- Far Rockaway
Yes you can If you hit a ULN system (Ultra low nutrianite) there is no more food soure for your sps so the first sign would be fading of color if you dont caught that in time your sps will starve and die . Lps are different thay store food in there system for a wail so it will take mounth before there show signs of starving.
- Location
- FREEPORT,LONG ISLAND
i agree 100% Bratt
Josh i use salifert test kits for everything, even bought another new one
I have 3 ph probes on my stystem that all read within .1
I kept saying it cant be the pellets but running out of answers right now until someone see something i cant. All sps starting from base then RTN on me to the top
henrystyle
Bad Mutha Shut Your mouth
- Location
- East Stroudsburg, PA
Bio pellets messed me up as well. Im back to simple. Cheato, skimmer and carbon. Gfo when needed... Something with the bacteria from those pellets. You have to start with a little then just add more pellets if needed. To much when first starting will shock the hell out of your tank. You really cant follow the directions.
But I don't have to worry about that because I'M NOT MESSING WITH THEM AGAIN!
PS- which brand of pellets are you using?
But I don't have to worry about that because I'M NOT MESSING WITH THEM AGAIN!
PS- which brand of pellets are you using?
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- Location
- poughquag, ny
the directions say x amount for x amount of gallons, and all the threads say to start with half that amount, henry which reactor did you have ? says 500 ml per 100g i started with the full 500 ml on my 80g system, had no cloudiness, no ill effects and i am about 3 months into them. i do have a goos skimmer, i did get the correct reactor for them. i do believe what might have been partial jarrets problem was not feeding the tank, . gonna get permission from a guy to post his opinions.
- Location
- Far Rockaway
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- Location
- poughquag, ny
"The photosynthates which zooxanthellae provide their hosts with can deliver up to 100% of the daily required energy for corals. This energy is in part utilized to continuously translocate calcium- and bicarbonate ions, thereby creating a skeleton."
http://www.coralscience.org/main/articles/nutrition-5/how-corals-feed
http://www.coralscience.org/main/articles/nutrition-5/how-corals-feed
sad to hear about the crash, I know how it feels. Twice for me and it wasn,t fun. Fish digging into my sandbed did it to me.
Just slow down and pray for the best. Once they start rtning it's hard to stop them.
When everything settles down and you start seeing the light again let me know and I would be happy to hook you up with spme frags
Vic
Just slow down and pray for the best. Once they start rtning it's hard to stop them.
When everything settles down and you start seeing the light again let me know and I would be happy to hook you up with spme frags
Vic
- Location
- poughquag, ny
Ok - although there is no way for you to know this because I wound up losing my almost 1.5 page worth of typing I tried to post as an initial response to Dizzle's question; I think you both just validated the case I was trying to make.... so here goes another attempt (this time not using the quick reply facility - so hopefully my token doesn't expire causing me to loose all of my typing!!)
My thoughts are as follows:
It might in fact turn out that many of the problems might be addressable by setting a higher target dKH; or better aerating/degassing produced CO2 from our water columns so that pH can be maintained at proper levels, which would allow many of the other natural processes to take place... simply food for thought at this point.
Let me know if any of this makes any kind of sense, or if I'm completely off my rocker. Thanks for reading... if you in fact made it through all of it...
Regards,
Sheldon
his screen name on RC is Scej12 had spoke to him making sure i could copy his post. does bring up alot of valid points and concerns
My thoughts are as follows:
- Ever since the dawn of Ultra Low Nutrient Systems (ULNS) given rise by this relatively new concept of "bacteria driven filtration" Zeo; Carbon dosing; etc... the discussion to determine an ideal carbonate hardness changed from the prescribed range of 8-12 dkh to a maximum limit of 9 dkh. Reason for this is that if your aquarium is nutrient limited in terms of phosphate/nitrate, then your zooxanthelae driven growth slows so much so that accelerated [coral] skeleton building (driven by lots of available CaCO3 i.e. dKH>9) will lead to burnt tips on your acro colonies... in other words, your acro skeleton structure will outgrow it's flesh;
I recently had a discussion with a colleague which re-focused my understanding of the importance of pH in a reef environment in particular with regard to sps/lps. Natural sea water hovers at a pH of 8.2. If you think of a calcium reactor which uses CO2 to acidify and ultimately liberate Ca & CO3 ions from aragonite/coral media etc; you would quickly see that at a certain pH Ca dissolves from coral skeletons, but can further deduce that at some point, living coral cannot even uptake or fix Ca to their skeletons.
In my particular prototype system (450g Reef fixer-upper), I embarked on a pretty extreme rehabilitation of a 6 year old aquarium that did not have the benefit of an adequate filtration nor circulation system until about 6-8 months ago. Nitrates were well over 200ppm; and phosphates were at about 3.5 or so... needless to say, this was the ideal system to test out the bio-pellet strategy.
In this particular system, I'd inadvertently elevated the calcium to 540 ppm (before I actually measured it). In response I shut off the CaCO3 reactor's CO2 feed hoping that my recent addition of LPS; and newly growing coralline algae would use up the surplus Ca before anything got to stressed... well the calcium refused to drop and in fact continued to fluctuate between 490 & 520 for an additional two months! In the meantime, I couldn't quite confirm what exactly was causing my loss of crocea clams, and a number of lps including elegance, bubble, plate, and fungia corals all due to rapid tissue loss/polyp bailouts.
It is known that one of the reasons that lps bail their polyps is because of insufficient Ca or at least Ca uptake. The skeleton is no longer adequately able to retain the fleshy polyps... I was certainly puzzled since at that same time this aquarium was plagued with extremely high Ca (didn't want to do a water-change just yet) even though the Ca reactor for all intents and purposes was turned off (CO2).
In looking at the situation in terms of pH and dKH, I found that my pH had been sitting at around 7.83 - 7.89 according to my recently installed and calibrated pH monitor; and KH was sitting around 8-9 degrees. At first I was not sure what the best corrective measure would be since I usually rely on calcium reactors to control KH, but in this odd situation, I already had an over-abundance of Ca... so I invested in some Kent Marine Pro Buffer to address the low pH issue by raising the dKH to whatever it needed to be to elevate the system pH toward levels found in NSW. Over the last 2 weeks I've arrived at a dKH level of 12-13 (Pro buffer and returning the Ca reactor to service); pH is now consistently above 8.1 (usually hitting 8.25); and .... wait for it.... wait for it..... MY Ca HAS FINALLY DROPPED TO 400-420!!!
In my opinion the above three points/observations can be combined to conclude this.... If your pH is below 8.0, your skeleton/calcium based corals will have great difficultly keeping; and will in all likelihood begin losing CaCO3 from their skeletal structure. This will inevitably lead to lps bailing polyps, and sps receding their tissue.
I also believe that with an abundance of bacterial fauna, which can be expected with this latest strategy of solid form carbon dosing, there will be a related impact on the O2/CO2 dynamic within our closed systems; the bacteria will respire and therefore add further load to your aquarium's buffering capacity - which is a direct derivative of alkalinity: i.e. the higher your KH, the greater your pH buffering capacity.
In my observations it would seem that the ULNS recommended maximum of 9 dKH cannot maintain pH at the ideal level of 8.2 in a system laden with O2 breathing/CO2 respiring bacteria. If I'm not mistaken, the entire impetus for this prescribed limitation of 9 dKH has to do with preventing the coral skeleton from out-growing it's flesh/polyps, then why can't we just focus on better nourishing the fleshy parts of the coral with amino acids and other types of heterotrophic feeding regiments (if it turns out that the bacterio-plankton made available by the pellets prove nutritionally limited)?
It might in fact turn out that many of the problems might be addressable by setting a higher target dKH; or better aerating/degassing produced CO2 from our water columns so that pH can be maintained at proper levels, which would allow many of the other natural processes to take place... simply food for thought at this point.
Let me know if any of this makes any kind of sense, or if I'm completely off my rocker. Thanks for reading... if you in fact made it through all of it...
Regards,
Sheldon
his screen name on RC is Scej12 had spoke to him making sure i could copy his post. does bring up alot of valid points and concerns
- Location
- Far Rockaway
Nice read NYreefNoob . Alot of it makes sense because now im addding more alk then what i was before to keep ph and dkh at a stable level
- Location
- FREEPORT,LONG ISLAND
I read that yesterday Rick and this is a good point he wrote
"In my opinion the above three points/observations can be combined to conclude this.... If your pH is below 8.0, your skeleton/calcium based corals will have great difficultly keeping; and will in all likelihood begin losing CaCO3 from their skeletal structure. This will inevitably lead to lps bailing polyps, and sps receding their tissue."
Ph is always down with these pellets for me!!!
Well after removing 3/4 pellets and feeding like no tomorrow my tank looks stable. I still read zero phosphate even after 15mins of feeding. I notice my colors are coming back slowly and poly extension looks better on my sps.
"In my opinion the above three points/observations can be combined to conclude this.... If your pH is below 8.0, your skeleton/calcium based corals will have great difficultly keeping; and will in all likelihood begin losing CaCO3 from their skeletal structure. This will inevitably lead to lps bailing polyps, and sps receding their tissue."
Ph is always down with these pellets for me!!!
Well after removing 3/4 pellets and feeding like no tomorrow my tank looks stable. I still read zero phosphate even after 15mins of feeding. I notice my colors are coming back slowly and poly extension looks better on my sps.
- Location
- Union Square, NY
IMO SPS need very little "food" to survive. If you completely stopped feeding your tank but continued regular water changes it would be a very long time before SPS started to die rapidly. They don't need that much organic food in order to grow.
- Location
- poughquag, ny
my ph pretty much always drops in winter months and hovers 7.8- to 8
- Location
- Union Square, NY
You've been changing conditions in the tank all over the place. What makes you think any of the above is the cause of the turnaround?
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