Matt's 225g Build Thread
- Thread starter meschaefer
- Start date
- Location
- NY
Matt, I'm saying this for the rest of the world. It's obviously a moot point to you now. However, for future reference, don't use a circular saw to cut sheetrock. That would be equivalent to using a chainsaw to cut piece of paper. Scissors work wonders on paper. You saw the resulting cloud.
All you need to use to cut sheetrock is a drywall keyhole saw. The dust will be kept to almost nothing using that. A pic is provided below.
You did a great job finishing the opening. Thanks for the running commentary.
It seems you're going to be doing a lot of the construction work yourself. If you'd like to run some things by me, I'd be happy to offer some guidance. I've built MANY homes as a general contractor.
Russ
All you need to use to cut sheetrock is a drywall keyhole saw. The dust will be kept to almost nothing using that. A pic is provided below.
You did a great job finishing the opening. Thanks for the running commentary.
It seems you're going to be doing a lot of the construction work yourself. If you'd like to run some things by me, I'd be happy to offer some guidance. I've built MANY homes as a general contractor.
Russ
Attachments
I think a utility knife could have done the job with a good straight edge as a guide :lol2:.. I have never seen anyone use circular saw on sheetrock
.
I used a utility knife to cut the bottom half of the sheetrock away from the studs. I used the circular saw on the top half as it allowed me to cut away the studs at the same time, the sheetrock was incedental. This was suggested to me by a contractor, as being the easiest way to do it. Maybe he was wrong...?
The dust was the only draw back. As said, the basement is still not finished so the dust just got added to all the other dust down there.
My plan going forward is to frame the stand by connecting cross bracing to each of the studs with a "U" bracket. Each of the corners will have doubled up 2x4 running to the floor as a leg, that is connected to the framing with a makeshift lap joint. The lap joint will be made by cutting one of the 2x4s , 3 1/2 inches shorter than the other. There will be two other legs across the back of the stand wich will also be doubled up and lap jointed 2x4.
If you look at the model for the stand on the previous pages you will see that Weatherson used "T" brackets on the middle back legs so that he could remove them for access under the tank. (I.e. to switch out the sump if needed). Are "T" brackets necessary, could I use two bolts instead? When the framing is done, I am going to use 3/4 inch ply on top, and will use the scraps to make some corner bracing.
All of the framing that you see in the picture on the previous page, is "dry fitted", i.e. nothing has been fastned togther. I thought I had some decking screws in my tool box, but they where not there. I have either used them all, or they are in storage (Almost all my tools are, while construction is ongoing). Are decking screws the best thing to use, or should I look for something else?
I am going to paint the whole thing in order to give it some protection from salt water. Since all of the other stands I have made where meant to be seen, they where stained with many coats of polyurethane on them (Helmsman from Minwax) Since I want to paint this as opposed to staining it I am not sure what type of paint to use. Suggestions?
A peice of "styrofoam type pink insulation", will go over the 3/4 ply, and under the tank.
COMMENTS PLEASE....I want both the "You have no idea what your doing and the whole thing will collapse", the occasional "Your doing a great job" would be nice too.
The dust was the only draw back. As said, the basement is still not finished so the dust just got added to all the other dust down there.
My plan going forward is to frame the stand by connecting cross bracing to each of the studs with a "U" bracket. Each of the corners will have doubled up 2x4 running to the floor as a leg, that is connected to the framing with a makeshift lap joint. The lap joint will be made by cutting one of the 2x4s , 3 1/2 inches shorter than the other. There will be two other legs across the back of the stand wich will also be doubled up and lap jointed 2x4.
If you look at the model for the stand on the previous pages you will see that Weatherson used "T" brackets on the middle back legs so that he could remove them for access under the tank. (I.e. to switch out the sump if needed). Are "T" brackets necessary, could I use two bolts instead? When the framing is done, I am going to use 3/4 inch ply on top, and will use the scraps to make some corner bracing.
All of the framing that you see in the picture on the previous page, is "dry fitted", i.e. nothing has been fastned togther. I thought I had some decking screws in my tool box, but they where not there. I have either used them all, or they are in storage (Almost all my tools are, while construction is ongoing). Are decking screws the best thing to use, or should I look for something else?
I am going to paint the whole thing in order to give it some protection from salt water. Since all of the other stands I have made where meant to be seen, they where stained with many coats of polyurethane on them (Helmsman from Minwax) Since I want to paint this as opposed to staining it I am not sure what type of paint to use. Suggestions?
A peice of "styrofoam type pink insulation", will go over the 3/4 ply, and under the tank.
COMMENTS PLEASE....I want both the "You have no idea what your doing and the whole thing will collapse", the occasional "Your doing a great job" would be nice too.
That wasn't a supporting wall. If it had been, I would have needed to put a header over the tank.
nyfireman3097
Senior Member
- Location
- Staten Island New York
Matt looking sweet so far best of luck with this one bro
With my busy schedule building the stand is going to take awhile, and i probably wont be ready until the end of next week, maybe sooner if I can find the time. With that I thought I would share some of the planning that has been going into the tank generally.
The tank is 72" long x 24" tall x 30" wide, with external overflows.
Eurobracing and starphire on 3 sides. Due to the disaster with my former tank my goal is to get this tank up and running as fast as possible. That means, that I will not have all the equipment I would like when I start. Since I lost almost all of my SPS, I am going to focus on they fish first, letting the tank mature as I upgrade the system for SPS.
Lighting
About a month or so I got a really good deal on three Blue Wave III HQI ballasts from Sunlight Supply. I had been debating whether to use HQI or a standard ballast, but then I found these for a price that could not be beat. I know a few people who run these ballasts and they swear by them.
As you can see from the close up, each ballast has a utility outlet on it. In theory this would allow you to have a fan turn on with the ballast, I don't think you could daisy chain the ballasts.
The Three ballasts are going to power single ended bulbs in lumenarc III reflectors. I picked up two lumenarcs used, and need to pick up a third. I havn't decided on which lamps I am going to use, but am leaning towards 10K ushios, but I am open to pretty much anything.
These will be supplemented with T5, I have been looking at a 4 x39w Tek2 fixture from ReefGeek, but I am undecided yet. I am unsure about how many T5 I want, as I would like to eventually run the MH for only few hours a day, a miday burn. The t5 would then be my primary lighting.
I am also considering picking up the Tek retrofit earlier, and putting off the third lumenarc and the bulbs, as it seems a waste to have to run the MH for the primarily fish only system my tank will be during it first few months.
Supplementation
I will be using a Aquamedic Reefdoser twin, which I had on my last system to dose Randy's Two Part. Since my tank disaster, a buddy of mine has been using my doser so the only picture I could take was off the box.
Filtration
On my old system, I was using a DAS Ex-2 wich was extremely oversized for my 65 gallon tank. For those not familiar witht he skimmer, it is recirculating type needle wheel skimmer, powered by two relabled Aquabee 2001s.
Skimmer dimensions: 16.1"x11"x27.5"
Mixing tube diameter: 6"
Collection neck diameter: 3.5"
Here is a pic next to a five gallon bucket for reference.
This skimmer may not be adequate for my system once it is fully
stocked, but it should do the job until I have made some of the other upgrades I want to do.
Flow
I have yet to purchase any powerheads etc. for the tank. I briefly considered a closed loop system, but nixed that idea as it is extremely inefficient. My plan now is to start with one Vortech, and add another once I have things up and running. I feel that ultimately I will need three of them, to really get things moving. I hear rumor that they have a wireless controller coming out that will handle up to ten of them, so it seems that this type of system will be expandable as needed.
In the short term, I have a couple of nanostreams laying around which will help get rid of dead spots. Although my ultimate goal is to keep all cords out of the tank.
Live Rock & Sand.
It is hard to say how much live rock I have, But it has to be close to 150lbs. I currently have some of it "cooking" in a brute trash can. I have to admit that I havn't done as many water changes as they say you are supposed to. Also the temp in the garbage can really spiked a couple of time, with a lot of die off, when the outside temp surpassed 90 degrees. I had some trouble with hydroids, and I dried out any rock with them on it. Perhaps the increased temp in the garbage can, killed off any that I missed.
In terms of sand, my old system was a DSB. My plan in this tank, is to use a shallow sandbed only for asthetics. About 200lbs of ESV, or something similar. I want something with slightly larger particle size so it doesn''t get blown around when I get all the Vortechs running. A multitude of stand stirrirs should keep it clean, and keep it from becoming detrius trap.
More to come....
The tank is 72" long x 24" tall x 30" wide, with external overflows.
Eurobracing and starphire on 3 sides. Due to the disaster with my former tank my goal is to get this tank up and running as fast as possible. That means, that I will not have all the equipment I would like when I start. Since I lost almost all of my SPS, I am going to focus on they fish first, letting the tank mature as I upgrade the system for SPS.
Lighting
About a month or so I got a really good deal on three Blue Wave III HQI ballasts from Sunlight Supply. I had been debating whether to use HQI or a standard ballast, but then I found these for a price that could not be beat. I know a few people who run these ballasts and they swear by them.
As you can see from the close up, each ballast has a utility outlet on it. In theory this would allow you to have a fan turn on with the ballast, I don't think you could daisy chain the ballasts.
The Three ballasts are going to power single ended bulbs in lumenarc III reflectors. I picked up two lumenarcs used, and need to pick up a third. I havn't decided on which lamps I am going to use, but am leaning towards 10K ushios, but I am open to pretty much anything.
These will be supplemented with T5, I have been looking at a 4 x39w Tek2 fixture from ReefGeek, but I am undecided yet. I am unsure about how many T5 I want, as I would like to eventually run the MH for only few hours a day, a miday burn. The t5 would then be my primary lighting.
I am also considering picking up the Tek retrofit earlier, and putting off the third lumenarc and the bulbs, as it seems a waste to have to run the MH for the primarily fish only system my tank will be during it first few months.
Supplementation
I will be using a Aquamedic Reefdoser twin, which I had on my last system to dose Randy's Two Part. Since my tank disaster, a buddy of mine has been using my doser so the only picture I could take was off the box.
Filtration
On my old system, I was using a DAS Ex-2 wich was extremely oversized for my 65 gallon tank. For those not familiar witht he skimmer, it is recirculating type needle wheel skimmer, powered by two relabled Aquabee 2001s.
Skimmer dimensions: 16.1"x11"x27.5"
Mixing tube diameter: 6"
Collection neck diameter: 3.5"
Here is a pic next to a five gallon bucket for reference.
This skimmer may not be adequate for my system once it is fully
stocked, but it should do the job until I have made some of the other upgrades I want to do.
Flow
I have yet to purchase any powerheads etc. for the tank. I briefly considered a closed loop system, but nixed that idea as it is extremely inefficient. My plan now is to start with one Vortech, and add another once I have things up and running. I feel that ultimately I will need three of them, to really get things moving. I hear rumor that they have a wireless controller coming out that will handle up to ten of them, so it seems that this type of system will be expandable as needed.
In the short term, I have a couple of nanostreams laying around which will help get rid of dead spots. Although my ultimate goal is to keep all cords out of the tank.
Live Rock & Sand.
It is hard to say how much live rock I have, But it has to be close to 150lbs. I currently have some of it "cooking" in a brute trash can. I have to admit that I havn't done as many water changes as they say you are supposed to. Also the temp in the garbage can really spiked a couple of time, with a lot of die off, when the outside temp surpassed 90 degrees. I had some trouble with hydroids, and I dried out any rock with them on it. Perhaps the increased temp in the garbage can, killed off any that I missed.
In terms of sand, my old system was a DSB. My plan in this tank, is to use a shallow sandbed only for asthetics. About 200lbs of ESV, or something similar. I want something with slightly larger particle size so it doesn''t get blown around when I get all the Vortechs running. A multitude of stand stirrirs should keep it clean, and keep it from becoming detrius trap.
More to come....
nyfireman3097
Senior Member
- Location
- Staten Island New York
Matt Radium 20k look and work amazingly on HQI ballast they do not look blue there a crisp white and SPS color up great with them
Matt, my sand does not get blown around even when the GS maroon fans it. She manages to get on some of my bottom dwellers that are near by, but thats it. It does not go flying around like my southdown would. But I still would not recommend it. It turns an ugly color after a few months, and thats with a bunch of nassarius, hermits, sand sifting star fish, and a few gobies. But that's just my opinion.
I like the look of the Radium bulbs, they do have a nice crisp look to them. I think that they are a little on the blue end, but I like that. My only problem with them is that their par sucks. According to Sanjay, on the PFO HQI ballast, they have a par of 85 while the Ushio's have a par of 159.
Perhaps i am overestimating the amount of Par that I really need?
Although the Ushio's definatly have a crappy color, I think that they have a yellow tinge to them, I like to supplment them with some Actinics or some of the "bluer" t5s out there.
I have to say, that I read your opinon on ESV sand in another thread, and it is the only thing holding me back from commiting to it. I wonder what it is about the ESV sand that has lead to it becoming discolored. If it is the larger particle size, that may be a problem with all sands of this type.
I am open to suggestions on other types of sand.
Um, I wonder? I have the fine grain. The coarse grain to me looked like "ice melt".lol
I have a mix of fine (1/3) and coarse (2/3) ESV sand - the bed went through several color changes - now it's a pretty pleasant pink-purplish color. I have tons of snails that stir it up - and never had a snow storm that didn't settle out within half our (let's just say that a powerhead with a hydor FLO will spin around and around lots).
Everything so far looks pretty amazing, Matt. As far as the reach goes, there are so many different graspers you can get at your pharmacy nearby (or a surgical supply store), that you'll be able to reach just about anything in the tank even without front panels.
Everything so far looks pretty amazing, Matt. As far as the reach goes, there are so many different graspers you can get at your pharmacy nearby (or a surgical supply store), that you'll be able to reach just about anything in the tank even without front panels.
As an example, if you used a Reeflo Dart for your closed loop it does 3600gph (at 0 head, so it is slightly less GPH) and uses 160 watts to do this.
A Vortech, moves 3000 gph at only 35 watts. Since these are pumps that are used 24 hours a day, that is alot of wasted electricity.
- Location
- Washington Heights, NY
I was just weighing the options yesterday and I choose close loop. On my 120 I had 2 6100 and it bugged me that I couldn't get strong flow all over the tank. Right next to the stream it was strong but on the other side, in a different direction, after it hit a rock or coral it wasn't. Water was still moving because it had to but not as fast. With corals its important how much flow they are getting in the immediate vicinity.
While designing my next tank I planned on some hydor koralia 3s but decided on a close loop yesterday. I know a lot might not agree, but while 1 vortech only uses 35 watts, you don't get the same flow on the other side of the tank or in the other direction. So then you add a second but still in some areas you won't get great flow. Then people add returns or waveboxes. But a dart on a close loop with several outlets can be very effective in getting around rocks and corals. And I can hit both sides of the tank. A vortech moves 3000gph but for how far?
I just know that in my 120 the streams with all the real estate they used, they were okay but not ideal for me. This time I'm think a snapper on a closed loop. It will do about 92 watts but be external. Hopefully a fan will cool off some of the heat that internal pumps give off.
While designing my next tank I planned on some hydor koralia 3s but decided on a close loop yesterday. I know a lot might not agree, but while 1 vortech only uses 35 watts, you don't get the same flow on the other side of the tank or in the other direction. So then you add a second but still in some areas you won't get great flow. Then people add returns or waveboxes. But a dart on a close loop with several outlets can be very effective in getting around rocks and corals. And I can hit both sides of the tank. A vortech moves 3000gph but for how far?
I just know that in my 120 the streams with all the real estate they used, they were okay but not ideal for me. This time I'm think a snapper on a closed loop. It will do about 92 watts but be external. Hopefully a fan will cool off some of the heat that internal pumps give off.
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I absolutely hear where your coming from. The closed loop, when being returned through multiple outlets, gives you far greater control.
I also think that what is really important is not the strength of the flow, but that you have mass water movement, i.e. that all the water is generally moving throughout the tank. (think "gyre")
I think that both a closed loop and a vortech/tunze can acheive this goal. Each has advantages and tradeoffs. As said above, a closed loop with multiple outputs makes it much easier to direct the flow and keeping the water moving. The Vortech/tunze approach trades off some directionality, for energy savings.
To me the energy savings is a big consideration, not so much in cost but in terms of being ecologically sensible.
As far as the asthetics, and use of realestate space...that's why I choose the Vortechs over the Tunze.
I also think that what is really important is not the strength of the flow, but that you have mass water movement, i.e. that all the water is generally moving throughout the tank. (think "gyre")
I think that both a closed loop and a vortech/tunze can acheive this goal. Each has advantages and tradeoffs. As said above, a closed loop with multiple outputs makes it much easier to direct the flow and keeping the water moving. The Vortech/tunze approach trades off some directionality, for energy savings.
To me the energy savings is a big consideration, not so much in cost but in terms of being ecologically sensible.
As far as the asthetics, and use of realestate space...that's why I choose the Vortechs over the Tunze.
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IME, a large close loop pump with two SeaSwirls give the best "random" flow and water movement. A close loop with a 4 way oceansmotion or few Tunzes with muticontroller would be tie for my second choice due to price and maintenance issues.
I have a tendency to put cryptic links in my posts. Because I think that this is an excellent article on Flow in a reef tank, I thought I would post a better link.
Advanced Aquarist
Feature Article: Water Flow is More Important for Corals Than Light
January 2007
Advanced Aquarist
Feature Article: Water Flow is More Important for Corals Than Light
January 2007
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