Lets Do Some Car Talking People...

[stage3-S4]

NYREEF, I agree with you and find a few flaws with Stages claims. First the car would hook up way better at a track. There is a reason for rumming with slicks and doing burnouts to make the tires sticky. So that part of the faster street run is BS. Secondly an AWD car would not have 100% of its power running to the rear. If Im correct your car has continous power to the front wheels at 25% of total power avaliable at all times. And to run 500 Hp on you motor with only bolt ons, I don't think so. The pistons and cams in your engine are not made for that. The compression would now be changed also. I don't know a lot about turbos, but I do know that your factory engine is not built or rated for that power. Did you do any tranny work at all?

First of all how would you know if my car hooks better on the street than at the track? Do you drive my car? AWD cars are not the same as RWD cars. They dont really need super sticky surfaces, and sometimes if its to sticky it hurts you. I know for sure my car is faster on the street. If you belive this or not, is really not relavant at this point. And where did I ever say awd has 100 percent power to the rear wheels? Actually I belive the awd system on the audi is 40/60 or 50/50 im not 100 percent sure. To run 500 on my motor? Do you know anything about s4s? 500 whp is usually the threshold for the 2.7t. After that the weaklink is the rods as it already has forged pistons and a strong crank. The heads are fine, you dont need to upgrade unless you wont more power of course. Dont forget the 2.7tt is a 30v (5v per cyclinder) . I have rebuilt the s4 tranny once with a buddy of mine. I think after doing it once its really not bad at all. You just need a few special tools. Unfourntaly the s4 trannys have 1-2 shift collar problem that locks you out when launching sometimes. The have a TSB on the new shift collar. Mine has been fine since I rebuilt it.

 

[stage3-S4]

Oh I guess I missed the part that u consider adding turbos bold on? Reall so the ill consider the nitrous bolt on, with nitrous 1 stage wet system the car has almost 750 hp, still wanna runn ur car with just bolt ons? Lol

If you read my previous post to nyreef you would know what i meant. Dont confuse yourself with semantics there buddy

 

[motortrendz]

Hey if u read back I wasn't the first one to throw out the first shot, buddy... and I'm cool with guys having fast car I love it, I don't care what it is, weather its as hugo or an corvette, and if u do ur own work even better, but don't be fooled when u start running your mouth abt running 11.20s. Bc when guys actually race, and I don't mean test and tune night at the track, playing with fire gets ya burned..and I'm not loking to put u down and the other guy with his +1... that's a joke...learn a lil first...btw awsomw job rebuilding the trand their a pain in the a$$! Done a few myself!

 

[NYreefNoob]

as stated before only number's that count come on paper, doesnt truelly matter to meas i drove a slow car, my wife chrysler will kill me on the take off, but from 30 on it's a different story, i will say this, reguardless of how big a turbo or cam or crank or what computer you use, these is alot more to balancing a motor out with hp and torgue. and stage i am not trying to berate you, but i am not a normal car person. over all fastest car i ever drove was a 76 vega cosworth with a caddy motor putting out 1100 hp at the crank not including the nos bottle. wasnt street legal, but the benifits of being the one painting it and considering a test run or 5 as partial payment was nice
motor i kick myself for selling my 88 monte ss with a jegs 350\350 hp with 150 shot bottle, use to give the kids time for their turbo to spool and launch a little forwards then flip them off as i went by, immature ? yes. but funny as heck when they pull up to ya after you stop and them saying you cheated with nos

 

[stage3-S4]

Hey if u read back I wasn't the first one to throw out the first shot, buddy... and I'm cool with guys having fast car I love it, I don't care what it is, weather its as hugo or an corvette, and if u do ur own work even better, but don't be fooled when u start running your mouth abt running 11.20s. Bc when guys actually race, and I don't mean test and tune night at the track, playing with fire gets ya burned..and I'm not loking to put u down and the other guy with his +1... that's a joke...learn a lil first...btw awsomw job rebuilding the trand their a pain in the a$$! Done a few myself!

I have no problem explaining things on here, I think people just get confused with the whole OEM rs4 turbo thing. I Just hate when people through non-v8 rwd domestics under the bus. I have respect for them. I know what they are and what they arent. All I stated was factual information because you and I both know that similar hp numbers in a domestic rwd v8, you are not pulling 1.5 60s on street tires and non-solid rear end. Its just the way it goes. Trust me I think about putting an ls1 in my s4 everyday. I would even like an lq4 with a gt35r runing at like 10psi. Those motors are sick and make serious power. I just wish the made something awd other than an suv to get the power to the ground.

 

[NYreefNoob]

stage they do, it's called knowing how to work a clutch. and having the right gearing, you either build it to launch or to have high over mph

 

[stage3-S4]

stage they do, it's called knowing how to work a clutch. and having the right gearing, you either build it to launch or to have high over mph[/QUOT

I have yet to see it happen on the street with out slicks. Most domestic guys run autos for better traction anyways right?

 

[jaa1456]

Stage I was reffering to your Dyno numbers on the part of which power goes where. Now that you have cleared up that you are guessing that explains a lot. And yes I have driven those cars and they do hook up better on the track. Unless you don't know what you are doing. That being said your trap speed means nothing for HP. I had a 2002 Lincoln LS running those trap speeds with a single turbo and only 340HP at the rear wheel. Not to mention the car is almost 1000lbs heavier than yours. NOT to bad I guess. Oh and mine was all proven on a dyno, not just guessing. And that motor you have does not handle 500HP without some changes. The block yes everything else no.

 

[motortrendz]

I have yet to see it happen on the street with out slicks. Most domestic guys run autos for better traction anyways right?

absolutly not, we run autos with a trans brake so we can launch the car at whatevr rpm we want and get more consistant e/t's...


you cant shift any stick shift faster than an auto, as an engineer you should know that!!! its simple math and physics! also alot of manuals cant handle the the power put out by some of these cars and snap the inpt shaft!!

 

[NYreefNoob]

at the track yes, and have a stall converter, pending how much hp and torque they go from 1200 rpm to 5000 rpm, it's a nice solid launch with a 3500 stall and knowing how to feather it off the line, when i lived in indiana i use to go to irp alot, and had a track 10 miles from where i grew up, but it was only a 1/8th mile, and most guys use to use a 2 speed power glide tranny because of the lenght between gears and not as many loss inbetween shifts in rpms. you wont find a true drag car using a stick, not saying no one does but 99% dont, stage this is where the difference for me is. and nort saying you dont know anything, but ive been tickering with cars for 30 yr's, not just rods,done dirt track cars, use to do bodywork on indy cars, done hydralics, air bagged, euro, ect my stang was built for road racing and was goin to get my license for it, but after investing x amount of money i couldnt afford to wreck it at a race. sure there are people who know more then me and you might as well, but when it comes to creating raw power and how to build a car for speed whether it is straight line or oval, ive done it,

 

[jaa1456]

Motor, the new caddy CTS is actually faster in an auto than manual. I believe it runs .5 seconds faster.

 

[stage3-S4]

Stage I was reffering to your Dyno numbers on the part of which power goes where. Now that you have cleared up that you are guessing that explains a lot. And yes I have driven those cars and they do hook up better on the track. Unless you don't know what you are doing. That being said your trap speed means nothing for HP. I had a 2002 Lincoln LS running those trap speeds with a single turbo and only 340HP at the rear wheel. Not to mention the car is almost 1000lbs heavier than yours. NOT to bad I guess. Oh and mine was all proven on a dyno, not just guessing. And that motor you have does not handle 500HP without some changes. The block yes everything else no.

So you know this for a fact that they dont handle 500 whp? again you are comparing apples to oranges. You cant just say that you were trapping the same speed in that car as mine. You have to look at everything 60' time, 1/8 mile et and trap, final et and trap. Yea sure you may be hitting 126mph trap but if your et is like 12.2, its most likely due to the fact that you are spinning off the line. My car doest not break anything loose espically at the track, so its a pretty good gauge at hp numbers. I know guys on the boards running low 11s and even 10s with complete stock bottom end. They can handle it just fine. Its when you upgrade past the ko4s that you need to upgrade. Like i said early upgrading the heads may help but wont really do much for you with ko4s.

 

[motortrendz]

what do u mean by nothing handles the power? 4340 crank 5340 rods 4340 pistons, block is filled, 4 bolt, crank radioused and ballanced rotating assembly, forgerd pushrods, fully rooler valve train.. 450lbs of open spring pressure... and mls headgaskets!!! oh itll handle it!!.. and the turbo 400 i built with the tci race kit and upgraded the intermediate sprag( sunce they blow out) the rear has welded tubes. moser axles and detroit locker with girdle supports.. the rear suspension has boxed steel control arms with urithane bushings an anti roll bar and a tubular adjustable torque arm.. sub frame connectors welded in and 50/50 rear shocks and 90/10 front struts/... what doesnt handle the power? am i missing a weak link????

 

[motortrendz]

jaaa, read it again... i said an auto shifts faster...

 

[stage3-S4]

absolutly not, we run autos with a trans brake so we can launch the car at whatevr rpm we want and get more consistant e/t's...


you cant shift any stick shift faster than an auto, as an engineer you should know that!!! its simple math and physics! also alot of manuals cant handle the the power put out by some of these cars and snap the inpt shaft!!

you are right about that. I knew that was part of it, but wasnt sure if they got more consistent 60s with the trans brake over dumping the clutch on a manual. Yea I agree for reliablity and consistency built auto is the way to go in one of those. I Do like the tranny in the nissan GTR but its a shame it breaks under heavy launches.

 

[motortrendz]

oh i read that one wrong, haha my bad.. but ive seen alot of cars have power out of their safety range.. man ive done it many times.. but eventually onve u surpass the 1.5:1 raito of hp/ cubic inch ( ur an engineer so u can convert it to liters) you get into the realm of the iffy range where it wasnt meant to be, yes itll work, but who knows for how long, btw what kinda blow off valve to u use for the turbos, and whats ur psi.. what size down pipe are u useing to eliminate turbo lag?? are u using a stand alone timer system, or u just set the boost and leave it? do u run different boost on the street than at the track bc if ur running race gas u can up the boost by 3-5 psi and if you retard the timing 2-4 deg you can go up some more....

 

[motortrendz]

its always better than dumping the clutch and when u race with a stick u never dump it u feather it while you other foot is pinned to the floor.. u adjust your wheel slippafge thru your left foot on the clutch not by releasing the gas pedal and getting back on it.. if u dump the clutch and get wheel spin you will up the mph and loose on et..but seem like your rocketing down the track bc when u hook the car will lurch forward like u put on afterburners...

 

[stage3-S4]

at the track yes, and have a stall converter, pending how much hp and torque they go from 1200 rpm to 5000 rpm, it's a nice solid launch with a 3500 stall and knowing how to feather it off the line, when i lived in indiana i use to go to irp alot, and had a track 10 miles from where i grew up, but it was only a 1/8th mile, and most guys use to use a 2 speed power glide tranny because of the lenght between gears and not as many loss inbetween shifts in rpms. you wont find a true drag car using a stick, not saying no one does but 99% dont, stage this is where the difference for me is. and nort saying you dont know anything, but ive been tickering with cars for 30 yr's, not just rods,done dirt track cars, use to do bodywork on indy cars, done hydralics, air bagged, euro, ect my stang was built for road racing and was goin to get my license for it, but after investing x amount of money i couldnt afford to wreck it at a race. sure there are people who know more then me and you might as well, but when it comes to creating raw power and how to build a car for speed whether it is straight line or oval, ive done it,

That sounds sick man. Im still young Im only 23 years old but I have been wrenching on cars since I was 16. Its funny though, because im one of those people that can just figure stuff out without anyone showing me. Obviously I could prob figure out how to rebuild a transmisson or motor but would rather have someone exeperinced help out for the first few times so I dont destroy anything lol. Im sure you have more experince working on cars and build cars then I do, Im not claimming to know everything, just things I have learned over the past few years of drag racing. I do want to build a sweet time attack car. My father has a 2003 miata, I would love to drop an ls1 in that thing and bring it to limerock or something. Not sure how well the weight distrubution is though with that in it lol.

 

[stage3-S4]

its always better than dumping the clutch and when u race with a stick u never dump it u feather it while you other foot is pinned to the floor.. u adjust your wheel slippafge thru your left foot on the clutch not by releasing the gas pedal and getting back on it.. if u dump the clutch and get wheel spin you will up the mph and loose on et..but seem like your rocketing down the track bc when u hook the car will lurch forward like u put on afterburners...

yea I beat, it sounds very complicated to get a rwd car to hook at the track. I just hit the 2step and dump it and im good to go lol

 

[NYreefNoob]

this is who i learnt the most from, spending years in their garage 200'x50' filled with full blown drag car's, full blown street cars. motors gallor ect
http://www.nhra.net/50th/top50/B_Glidden04.html