Well first off i wanna say thanks to all those who want to help out,
Just curious though how you can assume im not using an accurate phos kit?? Also did you ever ask if i went through this before? Which is a huge yes...which means i tried everything under the sun, including phosphate removers galore ... no help there and i can bet no help here .... the only coincidence is the tank location is the same, so therefore one can assume that maybe being next to a window is a bad thing on 2 separate occasions
Yes i can try doing the phos stuff with everything else, but the end result is getting the water column balanced again, which its not ...
Snake oil on the elements maybe, but the algone, well unless you know exactly whats in there i wouldn't knock it, considering it did do what it was suppose to do 1x already for me with proof in the pictures and posts ...
I can't hate on something that worked ... we can all learn from whats going on here and i know most wanna now the issue at hand (which is a green algae bloom loaded with phytoplankton) and what exactly is causing it ..Maybe its phosphates but than wouldn't the media take care of it, and if it doesn't what does that mean than ?
And yes i know tap water kills, and no im not using it, but in retrospect my first tank without any knowledge of MR or SW i used a garden hose to fill up my tank, and for a year i never had a single problem yet alone this kind of issue ... only 2 tanks went through this thus far and its been as bad as it is ... ironically the 2 are the one's with ro/di water ... and yes i check the filters in the units they are brand new ..
Some probably scratch there head at this, me too, especially when i say i don't do much to this tank except the basics (water changes, change media etc..) and being its so new what really could i have done to create such an outbreak ...
Unless you went and purchased a colorimeter it is not accurate. I figured that you didn't buy one as they are special order type of item that would have been hard to get within two days. But forget that, even if it is .5 measured on colorimeter it is still to high.... once again
your phosphates are to high and probably the source of your problem. To add to that, they are hard to test for on a tank with an algae problem. When you have high concentrations of algae, the algae tends to use it up as it becomes available, as a result it does not register on a test.
I "hate" on algone, because they wont tell you what is in it. That in my book is snake oil. It allegedly fixes imbalances, how can it do that? In order to fix an imbalance you need to know what your individual levels are, and then adjust each one independently to a desired range. That requires testing, and controlled dosing. A magic bullet can not do that.
It may have worked before, but that is not the point. You are having problems because there is a problem with your husbandry. There is something that you are doing that is causing this issue, and it would seem to me that you would want to figure that out to prevent this from happening again.
If your water is green it is algae, and algae problems are not mysterious. They have certain requirements... light and food. Alage will grow until they no longer have what they need. You can't get rid of the light on a reef tank. A major source of food for them, and a necessary element for growth is phosphate. If you have elevated phosphates algae will grow, if you have low levels of phosphates it will not. As I said, your phosphates are high and most likely the cause of your problem.
I recommend the phosphate media, because your phosphates are high. Fix your phosphates and I bet your problem will clear up.
You assert that you have tried phosphate removing media in the past. Which one did you use? How did you use it?... actively (i.e. through a reactor- good) or passively (i.e. a bag in a high flow area - not so good). How often did you change it? Many brands claim they are good for "6 months", which is a load of bull. On my 65, I tested (with a colorimeter) phosphate removing media, becoming exhausted within three days on a tank loaded with phosphates.
Phosphates are hard to control, but doable. Phosphates are added to the water primarily by food. But are also added in many supplements, salt mixes (even those that say "phosphate free" in bold), they may have been present in large concentrations on your live rock when you started the tank, and they may even added by your RO/DI water.