- Location
- Union Square, NY
Have your lfs check magnesium as well.
HELP!!! my tank is crashing
- Thread starter fishfarmer
- Start date
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by mrgoont:
<strong>Now on to Powerheads...Which brand of powerhead do you recommend?</strong><hr></blockquote>
I use Aquarium Systems Maxi-Jet powerheads. An excellent powerhead IMO. Ultra reliable, and work very well on a wavemaker. As far as fish getting sucked up, there is a plastic screen that covers the intake port. I'm not sure what the RIO replacement for your CPR wet/dry would be.
Aquarium Systems Website
Go to the link above and click on the "pumps" tab for more info on the powerheads. Cheers!
<strong>Now on to Powerheads...Which brand of powerhead do you recommend?</strong><hr></blockquote>
I use Aquarium Systems Maxi-Jet powerheads. An excellent powerhead IMO. Ultra reliable, and work very well on a wavemaker. As far as fish getting sucked up, there is a plastic screen that covers the intake port. I'm not sure what the RIO replacement for your CPR wet/dry would be.
Aquarium Systems Website
Go to the link above and click on the "pumps" tab for more info on the powerheads. Cheers!
ok I just got back from the LFS and they tested my water. They are also sending my water to a lab to be tested even further. LFS test results from today show my Calcium at 550 which is very high considering I did a 50% water change last night. Also found that my Phosphates were off the chart which I knew would happen because I had to do the emergency water change with tap water. And my PH is at 7.8 so I have to add Buffer. My LFS has not tested for Magnesium but I think the lab they sent it to does.
I currently have a canister filter running thru Carbon. how long should I let it run?
My Open Brain is pretty much dead...skelton is totally exposed with the exception of a small corner so I doubt there is much hope to save it. What really makes no sense is that while some corals are looking bad or even dying, others are looking better than ever. Now if my tank had toxins or something seriously wrong with it wouldnt I see all of my corals and my fish being affected?
I currently have a canister filter running thru Carbon. how long should I let it run?
My Open Brain is pretty much dead...skelton is totally exposed with the exception of a small corner so I doubt there is much hope to save it. What really makes no sense is that while some corals are looking bad or even dying, others are looking better than ever. Now if my tank had toxins or something seriously wrong with it wouldnt I see all of my corals and my fish being affected?
Can you post more specs on the tank, e.g. age, temperature, etc? How long did you have the fish before they died?
Did the fish die suddenly or over a period of time? Did they show any signs of stress, eg gasping, ick? Any chance anyone put something in there?
Organic toxins (like cleaners, insecticides, etc) can take out fish and leave inverts unharmed; heavy metals often take out the inverts. However, I have seen major die offs like this from things like temperature or pH fluctuations, low alk, etc., and indeed stray voltage.
In mystery cases such as these, big water changes are the first line of defense. I am surprised the LFS didn't suggest this, and went for Iodine instead. Rather silly, IMO.
Definitely not all due to the mantis!
Did the fish die suddenly or over a period of time? Did they show any signs of stress, eg gasping, ick? Any chance anyone put something in there?
Organic toxins (like cleaners, insecticides, etc) can take out fish and leave inverts unharmed; heavy metals often take out the inverts. However, I have seen major die offs like this from things like temperature or pH fluctuations, low alk, etc., and indeed stray voltage.
In mystery cases such as these, big water changes are the first line of defense. I am surprised the LFS didn't suggest this, and went for Iodine instead. Rather silly, IMO.
Definitely not all due to the mantis!
Temp of the tank has been around 83 degrees and it's nearly impossible to get it lower without a chiller....which I did buy a chiller today.
Age of the tank is 15 months.
The 3 Green Chromis that died never showed any signs and they each died about 2 weeks apart.
Age of the tank is 15 months.
The 3 Green Chromis that died never showed any signs and they each died about 2 weeks apart.
In regards to my Protein Skimmer...there have been times where there is no waste being pulled at all. However over the past week the collection cup has been full of the nastiest skimmate ever...could it be due to the Lugols of been dosing the tank with? Problem I have with Protein skimming is the fact that you can never be sure that your tank is either pollutant free or your skimmer isn't working. The skimmer I have is part of the CPR wet/dry I purchased last summer. All seems fine with the skimmer...if I raise the water level all I get is clear foam and where it is now it appears to be pulling a good amount of skimmate. But how do I know if Im getting the most out of this skimmer? Very frustrating.
Now on to Powerheads...Which brand of powerhead do you recommend? Only reason I got RIO was because my LFS recommended it and it reduced the chance of my smaller fish from getting sucked in. I've been seriously considering a wavemaker and I know RIO's dont work well when shut off and turned on again a few min later.
Now on to Powerheads...Which brand of powerhead do you recommend? Only reason I got RIO was because my LFS recommended it and it reduced the chance of my smaller fish from getting sucked in. I've been seriously considering a wavemaker and I know RIO's dont work well when shut off and turned on again a few min later.
Polyp,
My tank specs are on the 1st page of this post....Im not sure what more info you would want but if you ask I'd be happy to tell you.
I tested for the same thing that my LFS tested for. Here are the results of the water test.
PH: 8.2 - 8.4
Calcium: 500
Salinity: 23
Nitrate: 0 - trace
Nitrite: 0
Copper: 0
Ammonia: 0
My tank specs are on the 1st page of this post....Im not sure what more info you would want but if you ask I'd be happy to tell you.
I tested for the same thing that my LFS tested for. Here are the results of the water test.
PH: 8.2 - 8.4
Calcium: 500
Salinity: 23
Nitrate: 0 - trace
Nitrite: 0
Copper: 0
Ammonia: 0
LET PLAY BALL
BEEN UP AND RUNNING FOR 6 YEARS 180 NO FILTERS AND EVERYTHING IS ALIVE EVEN ALL MY CLOWN HAS BREED AND I STARTED OUT WITH ONE BUBBLE TIP ANENOME NOW HAVE 11 SO LISTEN FOR WHAT I HAVE AND YOU COMPARE OK TRUST ME
1- LIVE SAND ONE MORE TIME LIVE SAND if you have that agra crap get rid of it.
2- live sand @ 3-4 inches from bottom hey are you still there ok
3- your saltwater should be instant ocean and @ a gravity of 1.021-1.025 no higher/lower.
4 live rock how and what type
5- my lights 2 -250 watts halides @65k and 4 pc al @ 55 watts a vho
6- have two overflows one to my sump and the other to my refugium.
return pump is external wmd-40rlt-115 iwaki
7water change is a 30/40% a month of di water never nver never tap
8-i never add the water from a fish bag to my tank so when i buy form a lfs i put it in a bucket and drip water from my tank into the bucket @ a slow rate to ajust it to my main tank then after an hr i take it out the bucket and put it in my tank never their water they have too many things and hands in their water for me to put that crap in mine
9- must have a yellow tang if your tang dies then your water is not safe for most others (fish/corals). tangs are hardy just feed them algae.
10- heat heat heat heat not pass 80 nor les than 70 pls
i need just water changes not all that dose at this time give me bout hmmm 8 month first ok
11- no ammonia pls
well lets stop here first then we would go onto more later ok so what is missing from yours compare
BEEN UP AND RUNNING FOR 6 YEARS 180 NO FILTERS AND EVERYTHING IS ALIVE EVEN ALL MY CLOWN HAS BREED AND I STARTED OUT WITH ONE BUBBLE TIP ANENOME NOW HAVE 11 SO LISTEN FOR WHAT I HAVE AND YOU COMPARE OK TRUST ME
1- LIVE SAND ONE MORE TIME LIVE SAND if you have that agra crap get rid of it.
2- live sand @ 3-4 inches from bottom hey are you still there ok
3- your saltwater should be instant ocean and @ a gravity of 1.021-1.025 no higher/lower.
4 live rock how and what type
5- my lights 2 -250 watts halides @65k and 4 pc al @ 55 watts a vho
6- have two overflows one to my sump and the other to my refugium.
return pump is external wmd-40rlt-115 iwaki
7water change is a 30/40% a month of di water never nver never tap
8-i never add the water from a fish bag to my tank so when i buy form a lfs i put it in a bucket and drip water from my tank into the bucket @ a slow rate to ajust it to my main tank then after an hr i take it out the bucket and put it in my tank never their water they have too many things and hands in their water for me to put that crap in mine
9- must have a yellow tang if your tang dies then your water is not safe for most others (fish/corals). tangs are hardy just feed them algae.
10- heat heat heat heat not pass 80 nor les than 70 pls
i need just water changes not all that dose at this time give me bout hmmm 8 month first ok
11- no ammonia pls
well lets stop here first then we would go onto more later ok so what is missing from yours compare
Carbon gets exhausted rather quickly, (3-4 days or so). You can remove it and put some new carbon in your filter, or you can stop altogether.
Probably a few more uses would be beneficial along with some small weekly water changes (5-10%) IMO. If everything starts looking good again, you can cut back to a few days once or twice a month. Happy Reefkeeping and welcome!
Probably a few more uses would be beneficial along with some small weekly water changes (5-10%) IMO. If everything starts looking good again, you can cut back to a few days once or twice a month. Happy Reefkeeping and welcome!
THE CRAB
What works for you doesnt always work for everyone else. Nice brag section though.
Just keep up on the water changes water ever was in there ever time will finally get diluted. Also you can check for voltage in your water with a volt meter you would use for electrical work. IF oyu dont have one ask around for one. One of your friends must have one.
Good luck man.
What works for you doesnt always work for everyone else. Nice brag section though.
Just keep up on the water changes water ever was in there ever time will finally get diluted. Also you can check for voltage in your water with a volt meter you would use for electrical work. IF oyu dont have one ask around for one. One of your friends must have one.
Good luck man.
I'm hearing more and more about stray voltage and having the RIO pumps isn't making me feel any better. Would some kind of grounding device help me remove the stray voltage or would that just prevent the tank from being shocked on powerhead shortage?
Im sorry i didnt mean for it to sound like that. Usually stray voltage does affect your livestock some. But it really only causes huge problems when there is alot of voltage going through and then you would feel it if you put your hands in the water. It would be good to add a grounding probe but i dont think that is what is causeing your tank problems. Sorry for the misunderstanding i wrote it kind of bad.
Mrgoont,
Here is a good article on tank grounding:
Grounding Tanks
A good read if you like. On the main Reefs.org page, you can search for various articles on anything you would like to learn about.
Also the new Advanced Aquarist online magazine is also a great resource for anyone starting out or experienced alike.
So keep up on your reading, ask many questions and never stop learning! This way you will be able to really enjoy this fascinating hobby! Very happy reefkeeping, Marco
Here is a good article on tank grounding:
Grounding Tanks
A good read if you like. On the main Reefs.org page, you can search for various articles on anything you would like to learn about.
Also the new Advanced Aquarist online magazine is also a great resource for anyone starting out or experienced alike.
So keep up on your reading, ask many questions and never stop learning! This way you will be able to really enjoy this fascinating hobby! Very happy reefkeeping, Marco
Kipreefer,
It's ok...I appreciate the different view points. I never heard about stray voltage until I started this post. My LFS doesn't carry grounding probes because he doesnt believe in them. And he uses all RIO pumps...guess my LFS is a bad place to get warned of these dangers.
I assume a grounding probe will eliminate stray voltage if present?
It's ok...I appreciate the different view points. I never heard about stray voltage until I started this post. My LFS doesn't carry grounding probes because he doesnt believe in them. And he uses all RIO pumps...guess my LFS is a bad place to get warned of these dangers.
I assume a grounding probe will eliminate stray voltage if present?
Rios have a bad name here in OZ for breaking down
or blowing up and have even released toxins (there epoxy) into the water killing much livestock.
I'd use Hagens, Laguna, Aquaclear, LifeTech anything but a rio.
Its a good idea to have a probe in your tank just to protect YOU from any faults in equiptment.
Remember a probe MUST be used with a ELCB,or saftey switch or G "/.? whatever you call them in USA.
I fill a good skimmer should be producing some skimmate ALL the time and more when something in wrong.
or blowing up and have even released toxins (there epoxy) into the water killing much livestock.
I'd use Hagens, Laguna, Aquaclear, LifeTech anything but a rio.
Its a good idea to have a probe in your tank just to protect YOU from any faults in equiptment.
Remember a probe MUST be used with a ELCB,or saftey switch or G "/.? whatever you call them in USA.
I fill a good skimmer should be producing some skimmate ALL the time and more when something in wrong.
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