And still the cyano remains...

[MikeyZO]

Ok, so I've been having a cyano problem on my sand bed, and only on my sand bed. I've siphoned it all up twice now. I've lessened my feedings, shortened my lighting time, and after the last time I siphoned it, I added a new bag of chemipure, added a phosban reactor with phosban, and changed my lightbulbs in my CFs. And after all that, its still making a comeback on my sandbed. This is only a recent problem. I have had the tank set up the same way for months now, what with the powerheads where they are, the circulation the way it is and my parameters are unchanged. I'm running out of ideas here. Any thoughts?

 

[D1J8Z]

sand sifter?

 

[FREEZE]

you probably need to add more flow. I am battling this too in one of my newer tanks. My problem is by adding stronger flow I am blowing my sand all over the place, and it covers my zoas. I am constantly adjusting number of ph's and where they are pointing to come up with the right solution. But it is removing the cyano.

 

[Wes]

how long have you had the phosban reactor running? The reason i ask is it takes time.

 

[NYPDFrogman]

you need to check your make up water for PO4.
the only way is with a photometer.
I am also battling a cyno problem had a big die off of brown star polyp.

I checked my RO/DI water even though the TDS was zero I still had 0.05PPM PO4!
I recently changed my membranes and pre filters and it's zero

reactors take a little while to make an impact.
I have a redox controller on my tank with in the last couple of weeks my redox potential has risen from 318MV to 390MV and I see less and less cynao


all adding more flow does is move the cynao around.

husbandry is the only solution. :tub:

 

[MikeyZO]

Ive had the reactor up for about 4 days. I know it takes time, but from a lot of the studies I've read it tends to lower phosphates at a pretty decent rate, considering my tank is only a 36 gallon. As far as husbandry and membranes, They have been changed and like I said, this is a new problem. I never had a cyano problem before and the only thing Im worried about is that my sand bed is going to start dwindling down to nothing as I keep siphoning it out. But then again, I just read on another thread that as long as you add wet 'live' sand, it wont recycle the tank... so maybe that is what I will have to do while I wait for the tank to correct iteslf... yes/no?

 

[MikeyZO]

btw, the areas of the sand that are affected seem to be the same over and over again. And they are only the areas that are directly exposed to light and are somewhat open with no rockwork around.

 

[Wes]

it definitely takes longer than 4 days...be patient

 

[NYPDFrogman]

have you done a phosphate test? if so what are they?

 

[basiab]

It takes more than 4 days and more than 4 weeks. This hobby will teach you patience sooner or later.
The only quick fix is those chemicals they sell for this problem but then it is only short lived and you will also create a few new ones.

 

[inked]

for some reason I have always had a outbreak in my new tanks I guess its just part of my personal cycle lol! I just do one trreatment of red slime remover and it doesnt return or hasnt anyway knock on wood!

 

[meschaefer]

You mention that the tank is a few months old, this is a common problem at this stage.

A couple of people have mentioned flow and phosphate control as methods for dealing with cyano. In my experience once it has established itself flow really has little to do with combating it, it can be helpfull in preventing it but I am even skeptical about that.

While phosphate control is always important I think it is less important in terms of cyanobacteria than with algae outbreaks. I have a suspicion that cyanobacteria outbreaks are more closely related to excess nitrogen (via nitrite and nitrate) than phosphate. This would also explain why it occurs more often in young tanks than established tanks.

The real question is how to get rid of it. IME, the follwoing method has worked quite well. First siphon our as much of the cyanobacteria as possible. Due this everyday for three of four days. Then cut the lights off of the tank for three or four days (your corals and everything else will be fine), what ever remaining cyanobacteria that is there should die back. Before you put the lights back on due a large water change, change out your phosban and start running some carbon. If you still have a problem, repeat two to three weeks later.

 

[ZANYMASTER]

I don't know why every one is high on Phosban while Rowaphos is a better product and lasts longer.Phosban is short term solution.Get a sand sifting goby for your sand bed.Also check your DI cartridge for exhaustion.The above statements are also correct.

 

[boardryder]

basiab you are saying rowaphos can cause new problems? I couldn't imagine a bigger problem than all of the nusiance algae growing all over my tank that I've been battling for a few months. Can't wait to get my reactor up and going once my shipment arrives.

 

[mstrofdisaster]

I've been thru this - it stinks, no doubt. In addition to the advice about the phos reactors, get yourself a piece of airline tubing (1/8") and siphon out as much as you can daily. With the combination of siphoning and phosphate removal you should get clear in a week or two. Hang in there!

 

[e.muehlbauer]

I agree that its one of the stages a new tank goes through. My tank did the same thing at a few months. Keep up with water changes and siphoning off the slime...the situation will resolve.

 

[meschaefer]

I don't know why every one is high on Phosban while Rowaphos is a better product and lasts longer.Phosban is short term solution.Get a sand sifting goby for your sand bed.Also check your DI cartridge for exhaustion.The above statements are also correct.

A sand sifting goby will not do a thing for cyanobacteria, as it does nothing to alter the underlying problem/imbalance.

And a phosban/rowa/phosar/GRO generally, is anything but a short term solution but rather a viable part of good husbandry (albeit not the only option).

Off topic, but what makes you think Rowaphos is better than Phosban. They remove the same amount of phsophate per dollar spent. But Rowa has long term storage problems potentially leading to decreased efficiency (especially when buying in bulk). Personally after doing some simple testing, I choose neither Phosban or Rowaphos.

 

[ZANYMASTER]

I guess whatever works best for us.I've tried them all and Rowaphos is the best for my needs.Difference of opinions I suppose.

 

[meschaefer]

Sorry not an opinion type thing. It is measurable and quantifiable.

 

[MikeyZO]

the sad part is its the only problem I seem to be having. My fish are healthy, there is really no algae buildup on my glass, my equip is in good working order, my hammer is budding, my frogspawn opens up so much it looks like an anemone, both my xenia species are pulsing, my zoas are spreading, 2 of my candycanes look like they are splitting (either that or they got stung by the frogspawn that exploded out, although I have yet to see even the full polyps come too near it), my ricordea has grown, my kenya tree and toadstool leather have grown, my GSPs are out of control :lol: and my clove polyps have budded off. My cleanup crew seems to be doing a good job short of the sandbed. So I will continue with my good husbandry of the tank what with the siphoning and weekly water changes and all, be patient that the phosban will kick in sooner or later, I plan on adding a HOB fuge soon, and hopefully this will correct itself.

have you done a phosphate test? if so what are they?

Havent cuz I dont have a test for it. Was gonna get a salifert for the time being but everyone said dont waste your money. And I dont have the extra cash for one of the real phosphate meters

I've been thru this - it stinks, no doubt. In addition to the advice about the phos reactors, get yourself a piece of airline tubing (1/8") and siphon out as much as you can daily. With the combination of siphoning and phosphate removal you should get clear in a week or two. Hang in there!

Will do.

Then cut the lights off of the tank for three or four days (your corals and everything else will be fine), what ever remaining cyanobacteria that is there should die back. Before you put the lights back on due a large water change, change out your phosban and start running some carbon. If you still have a problem, repeat two to three weeks later.

You sure the lack of light wont hurt anything?

Get a sand sifting goby for your sand bed

Zany, a sand sifting goby is on my list of things to do... was thinking about an Orangemarked goby, but I heard they really dont do nearly as good a job as a Yellowheaded Sleeper or a Diamond Watchman. Any experience with any of those three?

Now here is another concern. The more I siphon out, the more sand I lose. Can live sand be added without causing a cycle or crash?
Can anyone give a reason why the only place I'm seeing the cyano is on the sandbed, and no where else?