- Location
- Bethpage,NY
I have the orange spotted goby,My sand is clean all day day.Maybe increase the flow to the bottom a bit.The phosphate issue needs to be resolved though.
And still the cyano remains...
- Thread starter MikeyZO
- Start date
- Location
- Deer Park, NY
yeah, I know. Like I said, the phosban is running so over time I guess it will drop. Unless you fee like taking a trip out to suffolk with a phospate meter :lol2:
Btw, I didnt think the orange spotted goby was a sand sifter...
Btw, I didnt think the orange spotted goby was a sand sifter...
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- Location
- Vernon, NJ
phosaban reactor is only part of the solution really need to check your make up water and top off water and make sure you arent adding any more to mix
- Location
- Deer Park, NY
lol, well wanna come bring your fellow nypd your phosphate meter? :lol2:
- Location
- Vernon, NJ
I would but I'm retired now and live in Vernon NJ
I'm in brooklyn at least once a week ( my 16 year old lives with my X)
maybe we can meet up bring a couple of samples
I'm in brooklyn at least once a week ( my 16 year old lives with my X)
maybe we can meet up bring a couple of samples
- Location
- Deer Park, NY
Heh, thats ok, I saw you lived in NJ and figured you were retired, I wasn't serious (hence the :lol2
I appreciate the offer, but I dont wanna be a bother. I'm sure there is either a LFS or another MR member that lives someplace on LI. Thank you again
I appreciate the offer, but I dont wanna be a bother. I'm sure there is either a LFS or another MR member that lives someplace on LI. Thank you again
- Location
- Vernon, NJ
how far away from country critters are you?
they might be able to test your water
my future daughter in law works there
they might be able to test your water
my future daughter in law works there
AlexWasserman
Experienced Reefer
- Location
- Edison, NJ
I think long term you're going to need an RO/DI more than a phosphate meter...
Pure water, with lots of water changes, will keep your water healthy, and get most of the excess nutrients out. (Nitrates/Phophates).
The reactor will then keep them low.
High flow will then help stop it re-occuring, but regardless of flow, if the nutrients are there, it'll find a place to settle and spread.
That's how I work it, anyway, and I'm going through the same problem.
Looking at:http://www.canada.com/victoriatimescolonist/news/story.html?id=381d4ce5-89a2-4901-864e-34239419bf67 I think that we can safely say that phosphorus, not nitrogen is the real thing to combat here.
Although, personally, I'm putting a remote DSB into both my tanks, (175 and 260G).
Alex
Pure water, with lots of water changes, will keep your water healthy, and get most of the excess nutrients out. (Nitrates/Phophates).
The reactor will then keep them low.
High flow will then help stop it re-occuring, but regardless of flow, if the nutrients are there, it'll find a place to settle and spread.
That's how I work it, anyway, and I'm going through the same problem.
Looking at:http://www.canada.com/victoriatimescolonist/news/story.html?id=381d4ce5-89a2-4901-864e-34239419bf67 I think that we can safely say that phosphorus, not nitrogen is the real thing to combat here.
Although, personally, I'm putting a remote DSB into both my tanks, (175 and 260G).
Alex
While I agree that phosphates are an issue in cyanobacteria problems, it would be a mistake to overlook the importance of nitrates. Various controlled studies have shown that different strains can either be nitrate or phosphate limiting. This means that depending on the strain, the cyano may be able to make due with very little of either phosphate or nitrate, while growth would only be limited by the other. i.e. it is conceivable to have very limited phosphates yet have uncontrollable cyano being fuled by nitrate, and even nitrite before it is converted.
The thing to be careful with, is that most studies that are out there deal with cyanobacteria in freshwater systems where it is a much larger commercial problem, meaning that the study usually focuses on species/strains that are not found in our tanks.
Another thing to note is that the article is somewhat sloppy in its presentation. It uses blue-green algae and algae interchangeably. Cyanobacteria is not an algae but is historically referred to as blue-green algae based upon an initial visual misidentification. Cyano bacteria is not algae, as it's name suggest it is a bacteria.
I do agree that a good RO/DI unit is a much better investment than a phosphate meter.
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Yes
AlexWasserman
Experienced Reefer
- Location
- Edison, NJ
I once was having an algae problem, and had to go away for xmas. I left for 2 weeks, and in the meantime forgot to turn my MHs back on.
Also, the neighbour forgot to fill up the sump as asked..
In the 2 weeks, my sump dried up, pump stopped, and there was just actinics... the corals grew a lot, every bit of algae died... I've been wondering about repeating it ever since. Not seriously, but the tank was healthy on my return...
Also, the neighbour forgot to fill up the sump as asked..
In the 2 weeks, my sump dried up, pump stopped, and there was just actinics... the corals grew a lot, every bit of algae died... I've been wondering about repeating it ever since. Not seriously, but the tank was healthy on my return...
Mikey, I also have a small area in my frag tank with cyano algae, but in my case its probably due to lack of flow in that area I think. Though, people will say it has nothing to do with flow but high nuitrient in the tank. The flow is just to blast those cyano away from the surface but really doesnt solve the root of the problem. Cyano is technically bacteria that feeds on nuitrient.
Dont know if this will help, but people raise their magnesium level to 1500 to battle green algae and higher for bryopsis algae, and shouldnt have ill affect on corals.
An observation another member here had mentioned to me about cyano issue, he noticed when the temperature lowered cyano goes away for awhile at least. And if u noticed, there are more people reporting cyano problem in the summer than any other time. There must be a relationship with temperature.
Dont know if this will help, but people raise their magnesium level to 1500 to battle green algae and higher for bryopsis algae, and shouldnt have ill affect on corals.
An observation another member here had mentioned to me about cyano issue, he noticed when the temperature lowered cyano goes away for awhile at least. And if u noticed, there are more people reporting cyano problem in the summer than any other time. There must be a relationship with temperature.
- Location
- Deer Park, NY
Thanks for the info, I live in Deer Park which is a ways from CC, but if I ever find myself headed in that direction I will grab a sample to take with me.
Sounds like a plan Kathy. Let me know when is good for you. Lunch is on meMike..I have a meter but not sure when I'll be in your area again, maybe a week or 2. When I do know, I'll give you a yell
Countdown of 9 yrs 11 months
RETIRED AT 42... WOO HOO!!!!As for those of you who mentioned the RO/DI... I am in the process of trying to figure out exactally where I can install one and have the room for a storage tank or storage rubbermaid bin. I think I have an idea, I just have to see if the homeowner (otherwise known at the Mother Unit) will have any objections.
- Location
- Vernon, NJ
there is an after life!!! Job was good to me no complaints
but it's so nice to not worry about working holidays!
- Location
- Deer Park, NY
I am starting to believe that although flow may be a preventative measure in combating cyano, it is definately not a cure. Reason being is that, while I was siphoning all the cyano off the sand and one of the rock bases right next to the main outbreak, I realized that it was cyano, not coralline, building up on the intake grill portion of my maxijet. I would assume that the intake would have a good amount of flow coming through it. Therefore, it would seem that flow is not the cureall for cyano as some seem to believe.
- Location
- Deer Park, NY
Well its all siphoned out, or at least as much of it as I can reach and did a 7 gallon water change. Gonna kill the lights for the next two days and see if it helps kill off the rest. Lets keep our fingers crossed.
- Location
- Vernon, NJ
the idea behind having flow is to prevent the detritus from settling and decomposing if you keep the detritus suspended in the water column the mechanical filtration will get it out(IE filter sock)
the red cynao is a buy product of deterioration of water quality
happens to everyone sometime or another
phosphates and nitrates begin to rise and water quality declines and the red cynao feed off the phosphates and nitrates
I dont think the lighting is an issue I have cynao growing on the underside of a rock ledge.
it's been a few months now and I'm wining the war against it
looking back I had a brown star polyp problem grew everywhere
exploded after my mystery wrasse went missing ( no doubt he hid somehere in my rock work and died) star polyp
fed on the excess nutrients and exploded
I cleaned out as much polpy as possible and than one day it all disappeared
couple of days later cynao...
didnt help I was adding phosphates every top off and water change, even though I use RO/DI water
thats why I support checking top of and make water for phosphates
get a 150GPD set up ( not more expensive than a 25GPD) should take about 20mins to fill a 5 gal pail
the red cynao is a buy product of deterioration of water quality
happens to everyone sometime or another
phosphates and nitrates begin to rise and water quality declines and the red cynao feed off the phosphates and nitrates
I dont think the lighting is an issue I have cynao growing on the underside of a rock ledge.
it's been a few months now and I'm wining the war against it
looking back I had a brown star polyp problem grew everywhere
exploded after my mystery wrasse went missing ( no doubt he hid somehere in my rock work and died) star polyp
fed on the excess nutrients and exploded
I cleaned out as much polpy as possible and than one day it all disappeared
couple of days later cynao...
didnt help I was adding phosphates every top off and water change, even though I use RO/DI water
thats why I support checking top of and make water for phosphates
you can attach to your sink use it as necessary use a 5 gal pail in sink
get a 150GPD set up ( not more expensive than a 25GPD) should take about 20mins to fill a 5 gal pail
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