In a 72 gal with 200 lbs of live rock you're not likely to go through a cyle. Its been 4 weeks and if it happened you probably missed it. As for the brown algea, it may not be diatoms. Is it on the glass only or also on the sandbed? I dont think there's anyone who doesn't need to clean the algea off the glass no matter how good their parameters are. If I'm wrong I'd like to know.
Water Changes
- Thread starter JARRETT SHARK
- Start date
- Location
- FREEPORT,LONG ISLAND
No Algea In The Sand,so When Should I Do My Fist Water Change,i Now I Went Thru My Cycle Already,help..........
i don't clean any algae off the glass at all...
I clean my glass once a week and because a clear/whitish/opaque film slowly forms. I think the film is bacterial, it is never brownish or greenish. I could prob go 2 weeks and noone would notice but me but i like my fish to look like they are floating in air.
My hanna meter is giving me a P04 level around 0.02. When i keep it under 0.04, no algae on the glass.
Before i got the Hanna Meter i always knew it was time to change the GFO if algae started growing on the glass.
I don't buy into the whole "bad bulb" theory....If the phosphate was low enough, it doesnt matter what kind of light you use.
I personally think the more water changes the better, regardless of your parameters, so do a water change ASAP
Last edited:
If your parameters are good, and you said they were, do a 10% water change. That won't change the parameters of your water that much. Make sure that when you are doing the water change you have plenty of buckets. Make sure that the water that you replace is about as close to your system water. Salinity should be the same, temperature should also be the same.
Do not rush, organize your equipment first.
Mix the sea salts and RODI water, make sure that they have the same salinity.
Put a heater on the water, so that it matches the temperature inside your tank.
Have plenty of clear hose available, you can always do a bit of vacuuming at the same time you are taking water out of your tank.
Slowly add your new water, hoses and siphoning works well. If you can't raise the buckets that high... maybe use a tranfer pump, just make sure that the transfer pump is rated for potable water (in other words you don't want to use stuff that might have oil or other stuff on it)
If you do it slowly, and the water is the same temp, you won't shock your system.
Best of luck
Do not rush, organize your equipment first.
Mix the sea salts and RODI water, make sure that they have the same salinity.
Put a heater on the water, so that it matches the temperature inside your tank.
Have plenty of clear hose available, you can always do a bit of vacuuming at the same time you are taking water out of your tank.
Slowly add your new water, hoses and siphoning works well. If you can't raise the buckets that high... maybe use a tranfer pump, just make sure that the transfer pump is rated for potable water (in other words you don't want to use stuff that might have oil or other stuff on it)
If you do it slowly, and the water is the same temp, you won't shock your system.
Best of luck
- Location
- FREEPORT,LONG ISLAND
Thank You,so For Now On How Often Do I Do Water Changes? Only When Levels Change?
P.s What Does Gfo Mean? And What Is A Hanna Meter?
P.s What Does Gfo Mean? And What Is A Hanna Meter?
Jarret,
You need to start doing some research. Please read the following and if you still have questions then post.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/index.php
Here are other articles that would be beneficial to read:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=102605
You need to start doing some research. Please read the following and if you still have questions then post.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/index.php
Here are other articles that would be beneficial to read:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=102605
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