HQI MH in a NanoCube

[MattGecko]

Picture of MH nanocube on page 2


Some time in the future I'm going to upgrade from my Mini Bow 7 (70w HQI & 32W aquatic) to a NanoCube.

I would like to try to eliminate my power compacts.

How should I set my lighting up:

A. (1) 150W HQI ?K
B. (2) 70W HQI 1=10K & 1=20K
C. (1) 250W HQI ?K
D. Open to suggestions

I'm going to use an AQ-HOB filter with an Iceprobe to keep the temp stable for the summer heatwave.
Matt[/b]

 

[birdman204]

With the iceprobe, a 150 Wwith a killer reflector would work great in your new nano-cube hoods...

 

[Anonymous]

Will that fit? From what I could see, there are no MH fixtures that are small enough to fit in a nanocube hood. Though, people do make custom hoods for them ...

http://home.earthlink.net/~minibowcanopy/

 

[MattGecko]

What Kelvin (sp) rating would you recomend, if I went with (1) 150W?


If I went with (1) 70W 10k & (1) 70W 20k, I'd get a full range. ?


I build those canopies. : )

 

[Anonymous]

I know ... I think my humor is lost to the plain text of the internet

 

[Anonymous]

Yeah, Id do the two 70-Watts in the different kelvin ratings like you suggested, as long as they fit; you would know if they fit or not, right?
You really want to get rid of your PCs? Why not just keep one actinic and go with a 10,000K HQI? I think that might actually be a more cost-effective arrangment, what with the cost of MH bulbs and all, and their lifespan... I dont know, just peddling backwards...

 

[MattGecko]

I could fit 4 HQI's in my canopy, so that's not a problem.

The reason I'm pushing for the HQI MH is I want a sps tank (with ric's and zoo's). To me, that's where the beauty is at. My 02


I'm thinking a 250W HQI with a 15K bulb, Donno?
Would I need an aquatic PC with that?

 

[Anonymous]

Hmmm... It is just nano depth, so the whole actinic thing might actually be irrelivant... 20,000K is blue enough that it would penetrate just as good as any actinic, if not better, at that depth!
You dont want to bleach the corals with too much light though. SPS will bleach under that much light; 259-Watts might actually be too much light intensity, especially for ric's and zoo's.
You know ricordeas and zoanthids arent SPSs, right? Mushrooms and polyps? K', just making sure... And they sure as hell can do with just a single PC over a nano-cube!

I would just put in one 70-Watt to 150-Watt, and maybe a single PC or VHO, or even SO fluorescent actinic bulb, put a nice reflector on it, cover em' with some UV glass or plastic, put an Iceprobe in through the sump or do the heat-sink thing from the DIY forum, and call it good!
Just my two penny's worth...

 

[MattGecko]

LOL, yes I know zoo's and rics are not sps.

I have seen pictures of zoo's that changed color under a 400w MH too, but your probable right about 250w being to much.

I currently have a 7G with a 70W HQI & 32W aquatic and I'm very pleased with the results.

I use 1/4" tempered, Low-E (UV) glass in my canopies.

I really appreciate your impute,
Thanks Matt

 

[Anonymous]

Hey, no biggie; just spillin' what I know/have learned in the near past!

Wow, your canopies come with glass? I dont remember if that was an option, or standard.... Stupid memory.

Yeah, 70-Watts and an actinic PC would keep even the toughest SPSs at least treading water, if not quite happy! That way, you dont risk bleaching any of the other stuff, you can even keep anemones, and it wont blind you when youre looking at the tank!

So, could I ask for some of that glass on one of your canopies as an option or something? That would be so cool!

Oh, and by the way, make the jump and incorporate some (one, rather) moonlights into the canopy; they are SO COOL!!! And, they make your fish get their grove on! My mandarins have been courting and everything, but when the moonlights come on, they do this awsome swirling dance in the shaft of the moonlight!!! SO AWESOME TO SEE!

Oh yeah, Ive been meaning to ask; would you rather use electronic ballasts or magnetic for your HQIs? I think its a matter of preference and size; If I were gonna do a 200 gallon, then Id use electronic, to save power and bulb life and whatnot. But, If I were doing a nano with MH, Id do magnetic and leave it far away from the tank, since its more cost effective IMO...

Also, you dont ventilate your canopies, do you? You just leave them open in the back, and thats good enough, right? Where would you mount the fans? I was thinking youd mount one on either side of the back, parallel to the length of the back edge, and have one facing inwards, and one out... My theory was that the curved front of the canopy would make a cool wind-guide-thingy and move the air through pretty good, even without any extra ventilation... But Im probably just crazy... :roll:

 

[Anonymous]

I'd go 150W or 175W if you want to keep some of the blue or purple Acros. If going with 2 bulbs I'd go a combo of 10K and 20K or 65K and 20K. If a single bulb I'd go with 20K.

I also wouldn't put any ricordea in a small tank with SPS, at least not long term.

 

[Anonymous]

Wow, 175-Watts over a nano-cube is what it takes to keep blue or purple acros?! Holy calzone! I thought even acros would bleach at that many watts!

8O 8O 8O They make 65,000K BULBS?!?!?! 8O 8O 8O

Wow, wouldnt that be like almost totally blue?! Over a NANO-CUBE?! My mind has been thoroughly boggled. 8O

Yeah, if you wanted to do around 150-Watts, just go with two 70-Watt bulbs, each at different K-ratings like MattWandell said...
Id have to say thats coolest way to go, especially if acros really need like 175-Watts at 8 inches deep or so! Sheesh; Ill put that on my list of underestimations of the month!

 

[Anonymous]

Well, I had 250W of 6500K MH(not 65,000, sorry about the confusion...but Iwasaki does make 50,000K bulbs!) over a 12" tall tank awhile back, so I know this is adequate. I assume a 150W would do the trick as well. Some folks keep 400W over 10 gallon tanks! *If acclimated to the light slowly* (meaning not just taking it from a tank with PC lighting and throwing it in), a shallow water Acro won't bleach even from this much light. We can't even begin to make light comparable to the sun's intensity in our tanks.

 

[MattGecko]

Yes I have the glass custom made for my canopies. There $40 installed (glass and rails).

I thought the electronic ballasts ran more efficiently?

For over 8+ months I've kept sps, softies, polyps, rics, all in my 7g with no problems and lots of growth on everything.


So I think (2) 70w with 10k & 20k bulbs would be the way to go.


The open back design with one fan blowing in is plenty to keep the HQI cool. Don't need a fan blowing out, theres no where else for the air to go but out.

 

[Anonymous]

Oh, whew! But still, 50,000K bulbs?!?! Wouldnt that basically be blue light?!

We cant even come close to the sun?! Wait a second, I think there is something to be said for sheer proportions here! I mean, if I got all those crazy MH bulbs--like 20 of them--and lit them up around a torch running off of pure liquid magnesium-phosphorous or some crazy chemical like that, then I think Id up and pass the sun up, proportionately speaking, right?

Yeah, electronic ballast run more efficiently, but I was talking about cost-effective efficiency! With the magnetic ballasts you supposedly get more bang for your buck out of your bulbs... I dont know, Ive never had MHs before; just reciting what Ive heard! Dont shoot the messenger! 8O :mrgreen:

Yeah, thats what I would do if I wanted the most light possible; the 2 70W bulbs at 10K and 20K. Good match right there, so they say!

So one fan with no other extra cooling to keep water temp stable? Wow, that must be a good fan!

You should try building the whole enchilada, MattGecko! Build the canopy, and then put in the lights in different arrangments, along with fans and maybe some moonlights; that would be righteous cool! You could be a one-stop-shop for nano lighting and canopies, and youd keep an edge in the market! If you sell everything theyre gonna need, youre like an economic heavy weight boxer without even trying! Niftyness...

 

[MattGecko]

I don't have the funds to buy lighting in advance or the connections. I'm just a little fish, with a little wallet.

On my minibow 7, I run one 12V fan at 6V in the winter and 9-12V in the summer. My tank stays between 78-81. I bought an Iceprobe over a year ago and have not needed to install it yet. With the except for the 2 week california heatwave, high temps are not a problem. No A/C in my condo

Running dual 70W in a deeper canopy, yes I will need the Iceprobe. The hot air in the canopy does not blow on the water because of the full glass divider.

My current 70w HQI is the only MH i've ever used. So I don't know much about the magnetic ballasts.


As I have to save up the money and build this set up slowly, I'm going to replace the black devider wall with a plexiglass blue one, cut the skimmer teeth and use a lock line return hooked to a powerhead. The rear compartment will contain heater, live rock and macro.

Should I have the back of the tank drilled to install the Iceprobe or install it in a HOB?

I like the moon light idea. I'll have to find someone selling them in the future.

Thanks Matt

 

[Anonymous]

i have 175W 10000k over a 20 gal i dont see why 150W would be a big deal...im thinking of going 12000k-14000k for a little bluer look

 

[hillbilly]

Acros can adjust to much, much stronger light than a 70w MH in a nano without bleaching. I don't think I would put zoos and such in sps nano. The current and flow that keeps sps happy will most likely tear the zoos and shrooms up in such a small tank. You will need a ice probe or some such device to keep the temp stable in that small a tank also. Fun tank for sure.

 

[MattGecko]

Ok, I'm going to go with a 150W 20K HQI with no aquatic and a DIY moon light for the nights.

If I was to keep a strong current in the top half of the tank and a medium current at the bottom, zoo's/rics should be ok...?

I'm not going to use any dividers in the fuge area and please a powerhead a 1/3 of the way up on an egg crate shelf.

I have a new Iceprobe/controller in my closet for this tank.

A thanks to everyone for all the help.
Matt

 

[ricky1414]

a 150w 20k hqi would be cool, because tunze is the only company I know that makes a 70w 20k hqi bulb. I wouldn't even know how to secure it in the states.
BTW- I didn't believe Matt W. until I found the 50K bulb at HelloLights. For this I am truly apologetic Matt. Here's a link http://www.lampsnow.com/156500kiw.html