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cool man. ps by sealed i mean in some easy to open way. just to prevent massive evap, you know ... a lid that seals, etc.
New 1/2 Gallon Stony Coral Reef
- Thread starter brandon4291
- Start date
tore that down pretty quick, the scaling on the plastic walls was killing me. one of the reasons i still haven't pulled the trigger on my big tank (acrylic vs. glass debate).brandon429":1ikzg291 said:
i liked the partitioning for that tank (betta tank) for refugium, LR, and sand display but i had a lot of diy problems cutting tho. :? fumble fingers.
still pondering some different setups. i change them like hats.
thinking of a multi-tiered system, i.e. stacked one on top of the other connected by drilled tube overflows. i was thinking of using those beanie baby containers that can stack on top of each other. thought of it when i saw some FW applications (FO, terrariums, etc.). it could give you a balanced eco-system with an interesting display imo.
trying to figure out the cutting without totally destroying the setup with my shaky fingers. still pondering the overflow too, internal or external. internal woould add to stability but the external would look neat (leak issue tho).
I checked my local pet supplies plus and saw the tanks, they only had 2 of em, but they were there. $36 or something without lighting.
I was thinking of trying out a 2.5gal tank and custom making the cabinet. The tank was like $9.99, and I could probably make the cabinet for a small tank like that for less than $10 - 15. I like to do craftshows with my wife and was thinking about maybe selling a few there. Not sure what to charge however, or if I'd be able to sell any even. Or if I should buy those mini bulbs I listed earlier and include them in the package. Gonna make one atleast tho for myself. I'll post a few pics once I get it made and running.
2.5gal too small for any fish? possibly a neon goby? Doesn't matter if it is tho, I was only thinking about putting a few mushrooms and yellow polyps in there.
I was thinking of trying out a 2.5gal tank and custom making the cabinet. The tank was like $9.99, and I could probably make the cabinet for a small tank like that for less than $10 - 15. I like to do craftshows with my wife and was thinking about maybe selling a few there. Not sure what to charge however, or if I'd be able to sell any even. Or if I should buy those mini bulbs I listed earlier and include them in the package. Gonna make one atleast tho for myself. I'll post a few pics once I get it made and running.
2.5gal too small for any fish? possibly a neon goby? Doesn't matter if it is tho, I was only thinking about putting a few mushrooms and yellow polyps in there.
2.5 is just right, and with at least bi-weekly 75% changes and much LR I'd say a small goby would be just fine as well. That size pico is stable and easier to work with, I recommend you set it up like this 1/2 gallon design. I don't want to drop anymore funds or time into new reef tanks, so it would be neat to see the design built into a larger setup. 2.5 is also where one would top out in temperature limits inside a sealed tank, and a custom lid would fit your lipped 2.5 much better and be much easier to seal than my smooth-sided setup. it would make a killer, stable baffle refugium system with very reduced evaporation--sealing 100% is tough but you can drag topoffs out to 5 days with a decent seal. Here is a recent pic, still working on the lighting so I'll try again later
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I didn't plan on adding the refugium in the back, or sealing the top. I was just gonna go for a plenium with 5lbs LR and be very diligent with water changes every week and topping off with fresh water everyday.
Not sure where I'd be able to get glass to put in the back anyways.
I may try the neon goby, mixture of polyps and mushrooms, maybe a few soft corals.
How would christmas tree worms and bloom rock hold up with the lighting I mentioned?
Not sure where I'd be able to get glass to put in the back anyways.
I may try the neon goby, mixture of polyps and mushrooms, maybe a few soft corals.
How would christmas tree worms and bloom rock hold up with the lighting I mentioned?
Firstly I would like to thank Brandon for being such an inspiration to Pico reefers all around he world. Your Pico reefs are a testament to the time and knowledge that you have put into them. I am hopefully going to be joining the ranks of the vastly growing army of Pico reefers.
I have a couple of questions for you. Firstly do you feel that Pico reefs can support the quantity of live phytoplankton that is required to keep non-photosynthetic corals and bi-valves? Taking into consideration the small amount that will be required to reach a density that is suitable to sustain these inverts. Secondly you mentioned that sun coral and tunicates were unsuitable occupants for you Pico reef. Do you still feel this way if the Pico was dedicated to housing these subjects?
Sorry for the hijack and long post your Picos are sweet and I will follow your updates closely.
I have a couple of questions for you. Firstly do you feel that Pico reefs can support the quantity of live phytoplankton that is required to keep non-photosynthetic corals and bi-valves? Taking into consideration the small amount that will be required to reach a density that is suitable to sustain these inverts. Secondly you mentioned that sun coral and tunicates were unsuitable occupants for you Pico reef. Do you still feel this way if the Pico was dedicated to housing these subjects?
Sorry for the hijack and long post your Picos are sweet and I will follow your updates closely.
Invert, sorry for the long delay in response-- that doesn't usually happen. I let the post slip by, but after reading it today I wanted to let you know that I think it is possible for some tunicates and sponges to become acclimated to a tank (I got lucky in this setup). For the most part I have seen them decline over time in pico reefs, especially the vividly-colored ones such as those bright orange sponges or the purple tunicate colonies that turn up form time to time in LFS displays. I got lucky in that the understructure of a lr chip I purchased had a yellowish sponge (gen/sp?) and a transparent tunicate colony that seem to be faring well, if it started to rot I was just going to throw out the frag but instead it spread to the other lower rock surfaces, it's one of my favorite specimens and I'll get some recent pics on soon of it.
I do feel it may be possible to keep these tricky feeders in a technically-designed nano, but the hitches willl be maintaining sufficient plankton density and cleanliness along with chemical stability. These stressors should be less pronouced in larger systems and trickier to deal with in nano tanks.
I think an experimenter could build a one-way circulation system where water proceeds from a larger, stored reservoir through a pico and then into a collection bin- so the chemistry stays rather stable while there is always a constant influx of balanced water with dense planktonic loading. At this point, the system is not really a true pico! I feel it would not be likely to keep these planktonic feeders alive in sub-picos or pico reefs where one is trying to achieve a true closed ecosystem balance; the real rewards in this arena come from being able to keep stony corals and several other well-suited specimens alive with minimal maintenance hassle. Larger nanos are better suited to keeping sponges IMO
I do feel it may be possible to keep these tricky feeders in a technically-designed nano, but the hitches willl be maintaining sufficient plankton density and cleanliness along with chemical stability. These stressors should be less pronouced in larger systems and trickier to deal with in nano tanks.
I think an experimenter could build a one-way circulation system where water proceeds from a larger, stored reservoir through a pico and then into a collection bin- so the chemistry stays rather stable while there is always a constant influx of balanced water with dense planktonic loading. At this point, the system is not really a true pico! I feel it would not be likely to keep these planktonic feeders alive in sub-picos or pico reefs where one is trying to achieve a true closed ecosystem balance; the real rewards in this arena come from being able to keep stony corals and several other well-suited specimens alive with minimal maintenance hassle. Larger nanos are better suited to keeping sponges IMO
I removed the blue mushrooms above the hammers. They were stretching and burning the euphyllia polyps, but I still left one blue mushroom inside the cave work in the lower left-hand side. There are no LPS near it so I think it will do okay. I always strive to slowly add a new taxonomic variation to the mix, to test the diversity limits as well as watch for polyp changes. Reading the behavior of the LPS is helpful in a pico, I watch my caulastrea to indicate water change time.
On the right hand side I have added a 1" miniature frogspawn frag. I culled this offshoot from a larger LFS-purchased specimen and then sold the adult back to another reefer for the same price. The juvenile has nice polyp extension and coloration, I have fed it frog pellets as it commonly sends out webbing which is eventually reeled in.
On the right hand side I have added a 1" miniature frogspawn frag. I culled this offshoot from a larger LFS-purchased specimen and then sold the adult back to another reefer for the same price. The juvenile has nice polyp extension and coloration, I have fed it frog pellets as it commonly sends out webbing which is eventually reeled in.
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the above picture also captures something I have never seen in a pico reef--mucus strands with white eggs coming out of clavularia polyps.
Do you see them in front? The polyps were withdrawn for two days and then one afternoon I walked in the living room and there was this mucus/egg mass on the tops of the polyps. The only other possiblity is an egg mass from a bumblebee conch, if anyone knows they lay white egg strands then we may can eliminate a clavularian sexual event. If so, it sure is strange the conchs would lay the eggs in the clavularia polyp head and not just along the rockwork or something
Do you see them in front? The polyps were withdrawn for two days and then one afternoon I walked in the living room and there was this mucus/egg mass on the tops of the polyps. The only other possiblity is an egg mass from a bumblebee conch, if anyone knows they lay white egg strands then we may can eliminate a clavularian sexual event. If so, it sure is strange the conchs would lay the eggs in the clavularia polyp head and not just along the rockwork or something
B-
Steve Tyree was just at or local aquarium society and explained how he uses cryptic sumps as a natural filtration method with sponges and tunicates. Very interesting stuff, I think he wrote a book on it that you might want to look into.
Speaking of sponges, I've got a couple types right now that are growing like gangbusters in the 12. If we ever trade frags one of these days I'll have to send you some. By the looks of your tank you don't need any more frags though...
AWESOME!!!!!!!!
Steve Tyree was just at or local aquarium society and explained how he uses cryptic sumps as a natural filtration method with sponges and tunicates. Very interesting stuff, I think he wrote a book on it that you might want to look into.
Speaking of sponges, I've got a couple types right now that are growing like gangbusters in the 12. If we ever trade frags one of these days I'll have to send you some. By the looks of your tank you don't need any more frags though...
AWESOME!!!!!!!!
Matt I would be up for that, it sounds like you have also found some that are acclimated well to nano tank chemistry. To make room for the frag, I could trade one of the tiny euphyllia heads and install a sponge piece under the ledge where the other one does well.
Can you recall what type of water (supplements or feeding) Steve Tyree used in his sponge/filter-feeder tanks? I wonder if he dripped his own live phytoplankton mix or if he was able to use pre-made retail additives such as the Kent line, cryopastes or Dt's. perhaps he didn't have to make a special feed, maybe some of those creatures survive best in true dark zones and not just in shade. I think I remember a Seascopes article on his design, he's been working on that a while now because that article must have been 1.5 years ago...
Hey! this month's Advanced Aquarist Magazine has a fine article on sponge biology-
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/ ... invert.htm
Can you recall what type of water (supplements or feeding) Steve Tyree used in his sponge/filter-feeder tanks? I wonder if he dripped his own live phytoplankton mix or if he was able to use pre-made retail additives such as the Kent line, cryopastes or Dt's. perhaps he didn't have to make a special feed, maybe some of those creatures survive best in true dark zones and not just in shade. I think I remember a Seascopes article on his design, he's been working on that a while now because that article must have been 1.5 years ago...
Hey! this month's Advanced Aquarist Magazine has a fine article on sponge biology-
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/ ... invert.htm
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