hey guys i think i found my problem
- Thread starter Tonyscoots84
- Start date
- Location
- Howell, NJ
the rodi is less then 2 weeks old and i have only made about 35 gallons so far with alot of flushing as well
- Location
- Howell, NJ
froggie u actually made me smile and laugh for the 1st time today. i like that saying.
thanks a bunch
about
5 red legged hermits
10 - 15 turbo snails
sand sifting goby
10 nass. snails.
something funny the goby will not eat the sand with the brown algae on it. he spits it back out. lolz....
thanks a bunch
about
5 red legged hermits
10 - 15 turbo snails
sand sifting goby
10 nass. snails.
something funny the goby will not eat the sand with the brown algae on it. he spits it back out. lolz....
- Location
- Howell, NJ
yea but it grows back soooo they do absolutely nothing.
OK.
Here's the game plan. I did this when I had my old NC12, and the algae didn't know what hit it.
1) a: So get a bag of chemi-pure (follow the intructions and rinse it a bit with ro/di water before putting it in).
b: Get 2 pads of Poly-filter
2) Mix about 10 (even more if you want) gallons of saltwater and have that ready.
3) Srubing the rocks:
Option 1: If you can, take your rock out and scrub it with a toothbrush.
Get a bucket,take out the rocks, fill it with enough tank water,
and srub the rocks like it owes you money! Then take some of the
newly made water to rinse the rocks and put back in tank.
Then re-fill tank with the rest of the newly made saltwater.
Option 2: If you can't. Since the algae seems spread all over the tank
already, you could maybe scrub the rock in-tank and have a
syphon in the other hand and syphon the crap as you scrub.
Then refill the tank with the newly made saltwater.
4) Put in your Chemi-pure pouch in the filter.
5) Run one pad of Poly-filter (see if you can fit the whole thing in your filter...if not you can cut it). See if you can wrap it around the Chemi-pure pouch. Let that pad run for 24 hours, throw it out, and replace it with the new one.
6)Then you try not to feed your fish (if you have any)...or keep it at a minimal, not stick your hand in the tank or add any crap for a week....basically zero-ing any nutrient addition.
Then come back and tell me how it went.
If you have too much rocks, you can do part 3) in stages. But would need to mix more water to rinse the rocks/ re-fill the tank.
Here's the game plan. I did this when I had my old NC12, and the algae didn't know what hit it.
1) a: So get a bag of chemi-pure (follow the intructions and rinse it a bit with ro/di water before putting it in).
b: Get 2 pads of Poly-filter
2) Mix about 10 (even more if you want) gallons of saltwater and have that ready.
3) Srubing the rocks:
Option 1: If you can, take your rock out and scrub it with a toothbrush.
Get a bucket,take out the rocks, fill it with enough tank water,
and srub the rocks like it owes you money! Then take some of the
newly made water to rinse the rocks and put back in tank.
Then re-fill tank with the rest of the newly made saltwater.
Option 2: If you can't. Since the algae seems spread all over the tank
already, you could maybe scrub the rock in-tank and have a
syphon in the other hand and syphon the crap as you scrub.
Then refill the tank with the newly made saltwater.
4) Put in your Chemi-pure pouch in the filter.
5) Run one pad of Poly-filter (see if you can fit the whole thing in your filter...if not you can cut it). See if you can wrap it around the Chemi-pure pouch. Let that pad run for 24 hours, throw it out, and replace it with the new one.
6)Then you try not to feed your fish (if you have any)...or keep it at a minimal, not stick your hand in the tank or add any crap for a week....basically zero-ing any nutrient addition.
Then come back and tell me how it went.
If you have too much rocks, you can do part 3) in stages. But would need to mix more water to rinse the rocks/ re-fill the tank.
Last edited:
- Location
- Howell, NJ
i have 4 fish so the most i can do is add a poly filter to it thats about it and the chemi pure i have already done previously....
i have
blue hippo tang
yellow tang
osc. clown fish
yellow face sand sifting goby.
i dont want to stress out the guys anymore cause there moving in less then a month. thanks for the recc. froggie. nice to see people who take time to give out good info.... really appreciated.
i have
blue hippo tang
yellow tang
osc. clown fish
yellow face sand sifting goby.
i dont want to stress out the guys anymore cause there moving in less then a month. thanks for the recc. froggie. nice to see people who take time to give out good info.... really appreciated.
Tonyscoots84 said:
You need a larger algae-eating clean-up crew. Definitely, more hermits. They work great on the sandbed and the rocks. Turbo snails are fine, but you'll find that they stay on the glass too much to help eat the diatoms.
- Location
- NY
I'm not a big fan of the hermits myself. I find them to be opportunistic feeders and will prey on weak or stressed corals & fish. I do agree with Ronen about snails being the unsung heroes. Nassarius snails as you already know, because you've got 10 of them, will turn over your sandbed better than anything.
Be careful with turbo (Astreas) snails. They are good cleaners, but when they fall over, they can't 'right' themselves. They easily die behind and in the rockwork where you can't see them. They can actually add to your problem when they die and decompose. Granted, your other cleanup crew will make short work of them, but then that cleanup crew isn't doing the job of cleaning your algae.
A TDS meter will help you a lot also. Just because your RO/DI output reads zero on your TDS meter does not mean you are putting in 'pure' water. RO/DI does not remove PO4 or Silicates (Si). These two nutrients will add to your algae problems. You should get yourself Salifert test kits for PO4 and Si and test your water before the RO/DI and after the RO/DI for PO4 & Si. Your source water could be your problem.
Russ
Be careful with turbo (Astreas) snails. They are good cleaners, but when they fall over, they can't 'right' themselves. They easily die behind and in the rockwork where you can't see them. They can actually add to your problem when they die and decompose. Granted, your other cleanup crew will make short work of them, but then that cleanup crew isn't doing the job of cleaning your algae.
A TDS meter will help you a lot also. Just because your RO/DI output reads zero on your TDS meter does not mean you are putting in 'pure' water. RO/DI does not remove PO4 or Silicates (Si). These two nutrients will add to your algae problems. You should get yourself Salifert test kits for PO4 and Si and test your water before the RO/DI and after the RO/DI for PO4 & Si. Your source water could be your problem.
Russ
- Location
- Howell, NJ
ok guys im back at it. i went to the my lfs today to get both the rodi water and rodi water tested just to make sure. there is absolutely nothing in the rodi and nothing in the tank water. he said the problem was to much lighting and the inorganic material was combining together, which makes diatoms=brown algae. so im gonna cut down lighting and make it from
4pm to 11 pm. 7 hours should be enough...
i had it from
2pm - 12-1am
no phosphates
no silicates
no nitrates
no nitrites
no nothing. so at least thats out of the way.
does anyone think the light change is a good idea.
4pm to 11 pm. 7 hours should be enough...
i had it from
2pm - 12-1am
no phosphates
no silicates
no nitrates
no nitrites
no nothing. so at least thats out of the way.
does anyone think the light change is a good idea.
- Location
- Howell, NJ
anyone
- Location
- 11756
I say just let it be. Is all your livestock fine? Corals? Fish? If alls well except for the brown algae just continue what your doing while preparing for the upgrade.
- Location
- Howell, NJ
yea i am kris. the only thing im gonna change is the lighting and the placement of the powerheads. put them on the back corners facing towards the middle of the tank so it creats a better circulation. try that out as well.
- Location
- NY
Tony, I've gone the route of shortening light cycles myself. It does help. However, going from 10 or 11 hours to 4 is extremely drastic. If you dropped it down to 8 hrs and evaluated it at that time, I think you'd be better off.
In this hobby I don't EVER recommend dramatic changes all at once. Always try it gradually.
Russ da master (of what? Who the heck knows)
In this hobby I don't EVER recommend dramatic changes all at once. Always try it gradually.
Russ da master (of what? Who the heck knows)
- Location
- Howell, NJ
no im doing 7-8 hours not 4 lolz
- Location
- NY
Tonyscoots84 said:
:banghead:
masterswimmer said:
hmm, I agree about the tds meter but not about the Po4.
I've tested my tap water for Po4 and it has quite a bit. After the ro/di it tests 0. How come you think the ro/di would not take out the Po4?
Have you tested for it?
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