- Location
- Garnerville, NY
Question Corals not growing/dieing What to do?
- Thread starter Rob_Reef_Keeper
- Start date
These seem very low indeed. How high are the Radion hanging? What kind of measures do you get at the surface of the water? Is that with the glass cover on?
My XR30 Gen4 pro are at 9", and at 72% AB+ I get 200 PAR under 14" of water (on the sand)
My XR30 Gen4 pro are at 9", and at 72% AB+ I get 200 PAR under 14" of water (on the sand)
- Location
- Garnerville, NY
Using the RMS mounts. The lights measure 7 inches to the glass and the water is 1-2 inches below that.
These are XR 15 blues (g5 left and g6 right)
These are XR 15 blues (g5 left and g6 right)
- Location
- Garnerville, NY
- Location
- Nueva York
Nice! Now you're getting somewhere! The first group of readings were definitely not enough to support much of any coral growth.
The 2nd group of readings still seem low for radions. I was getting 320 PAR with my kessil A360x. While I havent tested PAR yet, since I installed radions, coral growth and coloration has been significantly better than when I had under Kessils, which means they're that much stronger. It doesn't seem right that at 100% you're only getting 320 at your highest point.
How far below the water line is the top of your aquascape?
Regardless, you're well into the PAR zone for softies and LPS with the glass top off.
The 2nd group of readings still seem low for radions. I was getting 320 PAR with my kessil A360x. While I havent tested PAR yet, since I installed radions, coral growth and coloration has been significantly better than when I had under Kessils, which means they're that much stronger. It doesn't seem right that at 100% you're only getting 320 at your highest point.
How far below the water line is the top of your aquascape?
Regardless, you're well into the PAR zone for softies and LPS with the glass top off.
- Location
- Garnerville, NY
Top of the rock is ~10 inches below the water surface. Lights are 9 inches over the water
- Location
- Garnerville, NY
So 1 week no glass. Brown film algae over glass.
And topoff went from 4 gallons a week to 10 gallons. Need to redesign the topoff
And topoff went from 4 gallons a week to 10 gallons. Need to redesign the topoff
- Location
- Garnerville, NY
We’ll tank went the other way as Ulva algae has covered most of the LR and sand.
Corals are the same - Zoas that were dying are about gone. Coraline about gone.
My guess was not enough light and now lighting getting into the tank has nuked the tank into a swamp.
Have to find a solution or tank will be on the curb shortly.
Corals are the same - Zoas that were dying are about gone. Coraline about gone.
My guess was not enough light and now lighting getting into the tank has nuked the tank into a swamp.
Have to find a solution or tank will be on the curb shortly.
- Location
- Garnerville, NY
Acclimated from 50 to 85 over 30 day schedule after I pulled the glass tops.
- Location
- Garnerville, NY
Added a pincushion urchin. Started eating the algae and coraline as well. Corals still fading away. Going to let it go for another month with no adjustments and if no improvement then i will tear it down and put it all in the curb.
I would add more fish, Tangs for sure.
- Location
- Garnerville, NY
Over the past few months we have added a blue eye Kole tang. Does not touch the algae. Also added a cleaner wrasse.
My predictions are the Ulva (sea lettuce) algae will overtake the whole tank in a month smothering the few corals left.
The spots the urchin did clear are already being covered up with this algae.
Maybe I am better with the glass tops and not have this algae mess and forget corals. Now I have no coral growth, and a swamp.
My predictions are the Ulva (sea lettuce) algae will overtake the whole tank in a month smothering the few corals left.
The spots the urchin did clear are already being covered up with this algae.
Maybe I am better with the glass tops and not have this algae mess and forget corals. Now I have no coral growth, and a swamp.
Salfin eats it by the pound. I would have a swamp also if not for the CUC and the 8" Salfin tang, what he cant get at the emerald crabs eat. Don't give up, learn how to deal with the problems, you are in the proving grounds. Think about this, I received this green gift 3 years in on a torch coral I purchased after dipping and cleaning. Starting over is not always the answer. NO SURRENDER
- Location
- Nueva York
IMHO this is great news. Algae problems are alot more straightforward to deal with than the problems you had before. Now you're dealing with straight up water chemistry.
What are you feeding your fish? I found that when I switched to pellets from frozen foods, algae exploded in my tank and I switched back.
Do you have any chaeto in your sump? If not, I would suggest getting some ASAP.
What are you feeding your fish? I found that when I switched to pellets from frozen foods, algae exploded in my tank and I switched back.
Do you have any chaeto in your sump? If not, I would suggest getting some ASAP.
- Location
- Garnerville, NY
Hey, that sounds really frustrating. Here's a few thoughts based on what you've shared:
Alkalinity (Alk) - 6.7 dKH is pretty low. Corals, especially LPS like torches and frogspawns, do better around 8-9 dKH. Try raising it slowly; quick changes can be risky.
Nitrates and Phosphates - Nitrate at 25 ppm and phosphate at 0.1 ppm isn't terrible, but it's a bit high. Keeping those in check might help stabilize things.
Magnesium (Mag) - 1275 ppm is a bit on the low side. You might want to bump it up to around 1350-1400 ppm.
Feeding - Reef roids are good, but they can spike nutrients if overused. Maybe cut back a bit and see if it helps.
Lighting and Flow - Double-check your light settings and flow. Sometimes corals can be unhappy with too much light or flow, especially LPS.
Water Changes and Maintenance - A big water change might help reset things, but maybe not 90%. A 20-30% change could be a safer bet.
Check for Pests - Have you looked for pests like Aiptasia or flatworms? They can wreak havoc on a tank.
Getting Help - If you're stuck, maybe get a second opinion. Sometimes another reefer can spot something you've missed.
Don’t give up yet!
Reef tanks can be tough, but sometimes it just takes a bit of tweaking to get things right. Maybe reach out to local reefing groups; they can be a great resource. Good luck!
Alkalinity (Alk) - 6.7 dKH is pretty low. Corals, especially LPS like torches and frogspawns, do better around 8-9 dKH. Try raising it slowly; quick changes can be risky.
Nitrates and Phosphates - Nitrate at 25 ppm and phosphate at 0.1 ppm isn't terrible, but it's a bit high. Keeping those in check might help stabilize things.
Magnesium (Mag) - 1275 ppm is a bit on the low side. You might want to bump it up to around 1350-1400 ppm.
Feeding - Reef roids are good, but they can spike nutrients if overused. Maybe cut back a bit and see if it helps.
Lighting and Flow - Double-check your light settings and flow. Sometimes corals can be unhappy with too much light or flow, especially LPS.
Water Changes and Maintenance - A big water change might help reset things, but maybe not 90%. A 20-30% change could be a safer bet.
Check for Pests - Have you looked for pests like Aiptasia or flatworms? They can wreak havoc on a tank.
Getting Help - If you're stuck, maybe get a second opinion. Sometimes another reefer can spot something you've missed.
Don’t give up yet!
Reef tanks can be tough, but sometimes it just takes a bit of tweaking to get things right. Maybe reach out to local reefing groups; they can be a great resource. Good luck!
Last edited:
- Location
- Garnerville, NY
Update: water changes and been scrubbing the rock the best I can. Trying to avoid landslides of the rocks. Pulled out allot of algae. Note to all of you are running. Herbie style drain in your overflow. You will have to watch and clean allot of scrubbing this stuff off the rocks.
Ulva keeps growing. Urchins eating some but can’t keep up. Where they do travel they leave the rock bare as they eat the coralline as well. Making more area for spread to. Will continue at weekly scrubs for now.
Old coraline is about gone on back glass. The few corals still look the same and not growing. Maybe one day.
My main concern is not being able to grow corals. Something is not right still. Did all the testing and lighting and flow etc, followed recommendations here. Still no coral growth on even basic corals. And most die off.
Fish seem fine.
Latest
Alk is 8.0
Ca 450
Will monitor another month I guess and if no coral growth then I don’t know what to do. I know the algae won’t be gone but some sign of positive improvement should be shown. My guess a complete tear down and restart if I want to spend the money on all new LR. I don’t know what I did wrong or what is wrong so I don’t know what the outcome would be. I see tanks posted here that are a few months old that grow corals. And yet this will be 2 years this winter and can’t grow anything.
Anyone know a good tank service company that will come check this talk out in north Rockland county.
Ulva keeps growing. Urchins eating some but can’t keep up. Where they do travel they leave the rock bare as they eat the coralline as well. Making more area for spread to. Will continue at weekly scrubs for now.
Old coraline is about gone on back glass. The few corals still look the same and not growing. Maybe one day.
My main concern is not being able to grow corals. Something is not right still. Did all the testing and lighting and flow etc, followed recommendations here. Still no coral growth on even basic corals. And most die off.
Fish seem fine.
Latest
Alk is 8.0
Ca 450
Will monitor another month I guess and if no coral growth then I don’t know what to do. I know the algae won’t be gone but some sign of positive improvement should be shown. My guess a complete tear down and restart if I want to spend the money on all new LR. I don’t know what I did wrong or what is wrong so I don’t know what the outcome would be. I see tanks posted here that are a few months old that grow corals. And yet this will be 2 years this winter and can’t grow anything.
Anyone know a good tank service company that will come check this talk out in north Rockland county.
- Location
- Nueva York
What are your nitrates and phosphate levels? Those are more important as they pertain to algae and also coral health.
Hard to tell from the pic what the smaller corals are. Can you list out what you have? Maybe we can help better that way.
It looks like your mushrooms on the bottom left are doing well and also your brown polyps in the center are looking nice and full. That being said, Tlthe Kenya tree coral (right above the mushrooms) looks like it's not doing so well, most likely because it's in a spot furthest away from the light. Generally the corners of the tank get the least amount of light and oftentimes don't get enough to sustain coral life.
The blue zoas by the sand bed on the bottom right seem to be okay even though they're pretty shaded by the rock above it. They could probably do better with placement that allows for more light.
Can you take a pic of the chaeto you have? Can't underscore how important chaeto is in fighting algae. Admittedly it will be harder to compete with the form of algae you have since ulva is considered a macro algae as well.
When was the latest coral introduction to your tank? Did you introduce any since taking the tank cover? If so, how did they fare.
Hard to tell from the pic what the smaller corals are. Can you list out what you have? Maybe we can help better that way.
It looks like your mushrooms on the bottom left are doing well and also your brown polyps in the center are looking nice and full. That being said, Tlthe Kenya tree coral (right above the mushrooms) looks like it's not doing so well, most likely because it's in a spot furthest away from the light. Generally the corners of the tank get the least amount of light and oftentimes don't get enough to sustain coral life.
The blue zoas by the sand bed on the bottom right seem to be okay even though they're pretty shaded by the rock above it. They could probably do better with placement that allows for more light.
Can you take a pic of the chaeto you have? Can't underscore how important chaeto is in fighting algae. Admittedly it will be harder to compete with the form of algae you have since ulva is considered a macro algae as well.
When was the latest coral introduction to your tank? Did you introduce any since taking the tank cover? If so, how did they fare.
Sponsor Reefs
We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.
Click here to sponsor $10:
