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Do you run your refugium lights 24/7?

  • Yes

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • No

    Votes: 1 100.0%

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brandon4291

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Sara I wish I could go back in time to bug my old professor even more than I did! I think he liked the fact I would always hang around to discuss ideas with him and ask questions, there is nothing better than having access to someone's expertise in real time. And he liked having someone who actually cared enough about biology to tinker with it outside of the school lab... its neat you are in the same boat.

I don't have any data to back up the idea of peak refugium oxygen production (lit either as 12/12 reverse photoperiod or as 24x7) coinciding with the dark cycle of the main display, but it just seems like it would be the case due to the increased liberation of carbon dioxide during the nightly phase of the main tank. I very well may be forgetting other important details, but the rates of photosynthesis in my mind are tied to a very critical limiting factor---carbon dioxide. In our reefs tanks we strive to drive it off with open tops and effective circulation, certainly this has some effect on the well-being of our macro plants.

In the planted tank philosophy, we slow things down and restrict surface agitation to conserve CO2, to give our show plants as much gro-gas as possible. It is the number one limiting factor in plant growth provided our tanks have the usual nutrients... thats why CO2 injectors are the hot ticket in making a vibrant planted tank display.

Also, it may not be a correct assumption to guage marine macro algae growth in the same terms of common aquatic plants. Be sure and ask him how the physiology compares between the two, if photosynthesis in general is limited by CO2 gas or if marines have developed other acquisition characters such as those found in biogenic decalcification
where carbon needs are met by splitting carbonate bonds to get the valuable C. This would seem likely, as the environment of marine plants is in no short supply of carbonate.

We need to also ask Dr. Shimek about this as well, Im gonna email him and hope for a reply. Either way, its fun to get to the bottom of this stuff and our tanks will be the ones who benefit in the end. Happy hunting@
 
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Anonymous

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The reason I'm not comfortable with running the refugium during the day is the tendency for the pH to rise very high when photosynthesis occurs. See, when algae (including zooxanthellae) takes up CO2 from the water during the day the pH goes up. When fish produce CO2 day and night, pH goes down. At night, algae actually consume O2 and produce (?) CO2, causing the pH to go down. I know, I know, this is a gross oversimplification, but hear me out.

If you look at the pH as a function of time in a "no fuge" reef tank, you will see a sine curve where pH is highest at dusk and lowest at dawn because of these trends. OK, so the purpose of a reverse daylit refugium is to "flatten" this curve and stabilize the pH as much as possible. Another way to "flatten" this curve is to have a high alkalinity, but most people have this anyway. This is also why folks dose their Kalkwasser at night, because Kalk raises the pH of the tank and so causes less of a pH swing at night. So if you have a refugium with its own pH sine curve that is on the opposite cycle, the two add up to cancel each other out in a perfect world. Of course, most people have a much smaller refugium than their main tank, so it only affects the pH a little bit, but it's probably measurable. Theoretically though, two connected tanks lit on reverse cycles with the same exact stocking levels of corals and fish would have a perfectly stable pH.

The result of both the refugium and the main tank photosynthesizing all day long is that a lot of O2 is being produced. I don't know if it's possible to supersaturate the water in a reef tank with oxygen. I highly doubt it because of the large numbers of fish compared to water volume. However, it is possible to cause the pH to go abnormally high, and this is the only concern I would have when running the refugium 24/7.

I'm no algae biologist, but this is how I see it. If it works, and it sounds like it is for a lot of people, stick with it.
 

klingsa

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Aaah, good points, Matt. I wasn't thinking in terms of pH. That's a good explanation for the alternating photoperiods. Thanks for clearing that up.

Brandon -
Yes, I think my prof feels the same way. They like to be bothered by curious students. :D I think that to a certain extent, CO2 is an important limiting growth factor. But I don't think it is the main one, as algal cells are always producing CO2. I guess my question is what that main limiting growth factor is. To what extent is light a limiting factor? I'm not talking no light at all...obviously that means no photosynthesis. Hmmm...interesting experimental design ideas flashing through my head. :lol: I think a lot of this has to do with competition for nutrients. How quickly can, say, my staghorn coral and its zooxanthellae adapt to changes in lighting? It has a patch of algae growing on one of its tips from the LFS tank...at what point of reduced lighting would the cyano out-compete the zooxanthellae, sucking up all the nutrients and overtaking the coral? Interesting. It'll be hard to figure out all my variables to keep them constant! Aah, I could go on and on. Any suggestions?
Sara
 
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Anonymous

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I don't think lighting is the variable you should be concerned about. Both will thrive in high lighting, but your acroporid will definitely be outcompeted at lower light levels. Lowering the nutrient and dissolved organic level of your water will favor the growth of your coral over the algae/cyanobacteria. If it's a small branch, I would snap it off. Microalgae, once established on the skeleton of a coral, is pretty tough to get rid of.
 

klingsa

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Yeah, I'm not concerned about the lighting for that situation. I was just using it as an example. Unfortunately, it is not a small branch, but the tip of one of the major ones. It's ok, though. It's not encroaching any further.

Sara
 
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Anonymous

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Exactly what kind of algae or cyanobacteria is it? Can you describe the texture or color of it? If it's red, slimy, cyanbacteria you can probably just blow it off every day or so with a turkey baster and hope that the coral tissue will regrow over the spot.
 

klingsa

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It's red cyano...with a little green hair algae for good measure. The hair algae came from the LFS tank, and the cyano was my personal addition. :wink: Yeah, I do exactly that with a turkey baster, and it seems to be keeping it in check. The cyano, that is. The hair is not spreading, so they must be competing pretty evenly at the moment.
Sara
 
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Anonymous

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I've always lighted my refugiums 24/7 just because I think it gives the macroalgaes in the refugium extra light to outcompete and outgrow the nuisance algae in the main tank. For two years, I had a green bta and a maroon clown in a 29g under 2x55 watt PCs fuge full of sawblade caulerpa, and the clown and bta were none the worse for wear under 24/7. The bta actually split twice. It will be interesting to see how the turtle grass and various macroalgaes in the refugium section in my custom sump grow under a 65-watt LOA.
 

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