Chiller Controlling

[nyc reefer]

I have a question regarding my chiller: I have an Aquanetics Chiller 1/6HP that I bought used here on MR. The unit is old and has a built-in temp probe and a mechanical thermostat, it was working fine but it appears the controller is no longer working. I rewired the unit by-passing the controller and it works fine, meaning the chiller chills, LOL.

Now the question: can I use it with a ReefKeeper 2 I use to control my tank setup. My goal is to bypass the built-in controller on the chiller? Will this work or should I just look to repair the built in controller? Help, and advise please.
Thanks


Chiller Specs: 391 Watts, Amps 3.4, Volts 115

 

[motortrendz]

you should be able to use the rkl, just like your heater port, you would use the temp setting to turn the switch on when the temp is above 77 and the other for the heater to come on at 76.. so you have the 1 degree difference to make sure they arent counteracting each other.. you should be fine bc the rkl reads temperature in tenths... this is how i have mine hooked up.. but i only have a 1/13th

 

[nyc reefer]

Thanks for the reply motortrendz, Imma hook up the chiller to my RK controller and by-pass the internal thermostat on the chiller. Seems like it should be fine then.

 

[motortrendz]

just keep an eye on it... and let us know how it works..

 

[Josh]

You should fix the chiller. Turning it off and on every time you need to chill is not efficient and will probably shorten the lifespan of the compressor.

 

[pecan2phat]

But that is what a thermostat on the chiller basically does Josh. Most if not all will have a delayed start. Everyone who uses a Neptune or Reef Keeper is basically doing the same where they set the chiller's thermostat to a lower/higher setting as a fall back.

 

[motortrendz]

that is exacty what i do.. its like having a failsafe..

 

[KathyC]

But that is what a thermostat on the chiller basically does Josh. Most if not all will have a delayed start. Everyone who uses a Neptune or Reef Keeper is basically doing the same where they set the chiller's thermostat to a lower/higher setting as a fall back.

Warren, while I see your point, I tend to agree with Josh.
The OP is possibly putting himself in a dangerous position if the controller fails.

Using an Aquacontroller as a hypothetical example- isn't it suggested that the DC8 be plugged into a different receptacle than the head unit? If the circuit the head unit on trips, would the DC8 continue working unguided by the programming set in the head unit?
I've wondered about this and would like to know the answer

While controllers don't fail often, if it does he could crash his tank.

Better that the chiller be able to be set at a reasonable temperature AND hooked up to a controller - no?

 

[pecan2phat]

Warren, while I see your point, I tend to agree with Josh.
The OP is possibly putting himself in a dangerous position if the controller fails.

Using an Aquacontroller as a hypothetical example- isn't it suggested that the DC8 be plugged into a different receptacle than the head unit? If the circuit the head unit on trips, would the DC8 continue working unguided by the programming set in the head unit?
I've wondered about this and would like to know the answer

While controllers don't fail often, if it does he could crash his tank.

Better that the chiller be able to be set at a reasonable temperature AND hooked up to a controller - no?

With an AquaController, the head unit is powered with a 12v transformer and the DC8 is in any 110V wall outlet so if your outlet fails or the DC8 trips then there is no recourse. On the AC3 and Pro, you can have an additional transformer plugged in to usually a battery back up source but if the head unit did loose power, the DC8 would keep it's present settings so this is where the internal thermostats on the chiller would take over at 2 to 4 degrees difference.
So yes, it's safer to have your chiller with a working internal thermostat. Also not a good idea to keep all your vitals on one power source so I keep my return pumps on my 2 systems off the DC8s and on different circuits.
What also goes bad are the temp probes on any controller systems, that will nuke your tank if you don't catch it in time. I have had 2 go bad in about 6 yrs.

 

[cali_reef]

With an AquaController, the head unit is powered with a 12v transformer and the DC8 is in any 110V wall outlet so if your outlet fails or the DC8 trips then there is no recourse. On the AC3 and Pro, you can have an additional transformer plugged in to usually a battery back up source but if the head unit did loose power, the DC8 would keep it's present settings so this is where the internal thermostats on the chiller would take over at 2 to 4 degrees difference.
So yes, it's safer to have your chiller with a working internal thermostat. Also not a good idea to keep all your vitals on one power source so I keep my return pumps on my 2 systems off the DC8s and on different circuits.
What also goes bad are the temp probes on any controller systems, that will nuke your tank if you don't catch it in time. I have had 2 go bad in about 6 yrs.

Two temp probes on an Apex will solve your worries

Most of the chillers I have used don't have a built in controller, and the older chillers used to come with an external Ranco controller for switching on\off the chiller. The built in temperature controllers on chiller and heaters are typically not very accurate, I would not trust it as the sole controller.

 

[pecan2phat]

Now that you mention this, I seem to remember that the Aqua Logic, Current & Aquanetics did not have internal thermostats and mostly just the imports had them. Kathy, didn't you have an Aqua Logic chiller one time?

cali,
Did you ever pick up one of those Swabbies? If so, how is it working for you?