Edgefree Corner Joints

[NY Acrylics]

Have been having trouble posting so I'll try this again.

 

[NY Acrylics]

I've been working on this for a while and have finally started to get nice results. When you normal silicone glass or glue acrylic you attach the side panels to the front panel which leaves the edge of the front panel exposed. This edge is usually polished or sanded with glass or machined with acrylic and then polished. With acrylic this is usually reserved for show tanks. The cool thing about these pictures is that there is no edge. The side panel and front panel continue all the way to the corner and this isn't bent. When you bend acrylic you lose material in the corner that has to be machined off and weakens that area. Also because of the curvature of the bend it looks kinda funny when you look thru it. With this corner you can look straight thru both panels of acrylic to the other side of the room.

Here's the front of the sump. The later shots are of the left front corner of this sump.


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Here's a shot looking thru the corner from the side.


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And here's a shot looking thru the corner from the front.


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The line you see is the glue seam on the other sides of the tank. Anyway I thought it was cool so I thought I would share and it's what I feel is my first bubble free seam. There's one or two things I feel could get better about it but the seam itself is the best I've done.

 

[masterswimmer]

I've seen Paul's work first hand. Beautiful seams. Sweet routed edges. Very professional work.

I'm looking forward to working with you.

Russ

 

[NY Acrylics]

Thanks for the comments Russ!

Paul

 

[Chiefmcfuz]

Wow nice work Paul!!!

 

[NY Acrylics]

Thanks Chief! It took a while for me to get to that point but it was worth it.

 

[tripstank]

Paul, for bubbles joints, I recommend using tungsten wire and weld-on 4. I also like to use fixtures that I have in the machine shop. Angle plates work like a charm and are fairly cheap. There is a place in Williamburg that has some cheap angle plates and 1-2-3 blocks. Victor Machinery.

Great job on the joints!

Also check out www.craftics.com

They usually have all sorts of good stuff, but don't bother with their saw blades or drill bits. If you like I can teach you how to modify your current bits to drill plex better.

 

[Dmitry]

Fancy! :goldfish:

 

[NY Acrylics]

Hey Tripstank,

I appreciate the advice and thanks for the comments. Even though I don't use drill bits that often I might take you up on that. For saw blades I already have a general saw and freud with a tcg so I'm good.

Hey Dmitry,

I'm glad you liked it because that was supposed to be yours :lol2:.

 

[tripstank]

Freud aye? I was wondering how they were. I have a Forrest No-Melt. LOVE IT!

 

[NY Acrylics]

Freud's is my secondary/backup blade. The no-melt is really nice but too expensive (for me). The basic difference between it and the general saw is that they hand hammer each blade to ensure straightness. But when I get my general sharpened they make sure its straight and will hammer it if it isn't.

 

[tripstank]

Forrest will resharpen and fix your no-melt for only 20.00. IMO the forrest has been money well spent.

 

[NY Acrylics]

Don't get me wrong, the no-melt is the stuff, but its just too much for me to spend right now. I think the general saw is a good replacement for it.