Ming's Deep 144G 42Lx36Wx22H

[ming]

Built the frame this weekend. Going to add an additional 2 support beams on the bottom to hold my sump and other misc things I put under the tank.
I'm debating if I need a vertical support between the upper and lower middle horizontal beams.

These are not attached yet, but I also cut up some plywood for the top, and under the tank, and going to use pine wood for the doors. Also a solid plywood for the entire back (not pictured). I'm going to drill holes through the back panel where the PVC pipes need to go through.

My back is aching, I'll resume in a few days...

 

[cali_reef]

I would go with a OM 4 way on the return for the four holes and one or two Vortec\Tunze for overall flow. The Vortec\Tunze can also be your back up flow with a battery pack.

Check for racking from front to back, you might want to consider plywood the sides and cut holes for access doors.

 

[pecan2phat]

I went with the Water Blaster HY7000 for return. 1800 GPH @ 88W. Less wattage and flow with head pressure ofcourse.

The OM 4-Way seems like a good idea, especially since there's exactly 4 holes. I remember Pierce had some rusting on his. Not sure if its a common problem or not though.
That also messes with my whole plumbing diagram I already drew out :lol2:

I have been running a 4-Way over the top since the 120g was set up in LI and it's a good setup.
Over the years, I've experimented with Revs on the back ports but recently went back to their flexi-nozzles on all four returns. I also switched out my Dart pump to the HY-7000 and am satisfied with the flow at 87 watts draw.
Use 1" black PVC pipe, it's a lot sexier :lol2:

 

[ming]

What do you think about the S-Squirt Compact?
It has 4x 3/4" outlets and a 1" inlet.
This actually fits perfectly with the pump outlet and the 4 holes drilled on the tank.

http://www.oceansmotions.com/store/...id=39&osCsid=586caf0ee08c9717fe19a9486d56eca1

I'm not sure if its as reliable as the OM 4 way or not. Seems like just a smaller and more compact version.

 

[finksmart]

I'm debating if I need a vertical support between the upper and lower middle horizontal beams.

Ming I read that the beam in the middle would only serve to keep the frame from bending. The real weight bearing is on the 4 corners.

 

[ming]

I would go with a OM 4 way on the return for the four holes and one or two Vortec\Tunze for overall flow. The Vortec\Tunze can also be your back up flow with a battery pack.

Check for racking from front to back, you might want to consider plywood the sides and cut holes for access doors.

I'm thinking about putting plywood on the bottom half of each side to add reinforcement. Either way, I can't figure out a way to add either one and make it look nice while still giving ease of access to the sides.

Ming I read that the beam in the middle would only serve to keep the frame from bending. The real weight bearing is on the 4 corners.

Yeah, thats true. I'll probably still add 1 to the back and have it attached to the back panel.

 

[cali_reef]

I'm thinking about putting plywood on the bottom half of each side to add reinforcement. Either way, I can't figure out a way to add either one and make it look nice while still giving ease of access to the sides.

Plywood the sides with a full piece, use construction glue and 2" screws, then cut a hole with a jig saw for the door. The door opening can be right up to the 2x4, but I would leave a few inches on the top and one of the verticals if you can. The idea is to brace the top and bottom to the vertical legs with a single piece of plywood.

 

[KathyC]

Like this Pierce? ..the side panel

 

[isgon26]

That tank looks Heavy!!

 

[cali_reef]

Yes Kathy, like that. I would leave a bit more plywood if access space is not an issue.



Sent from my iPhone using Reefs

 

[ming]

Another update. I can start working on the canopy, then paint everything once its done.
I used 1/2" plywood for the skin, 5+" all around

Doors opened

Doors closed

 

[Lenny718]

Coming along nicely ming, can't wait to see it finished and stocked

 

[CDANN76]

very nice build so far.I like how the stand is open all around,it will def come in handy...looking forward to seeing it filled with water..

 

[FlowerhornNYC]

Coming along nicely & looking really great Ming
I cant wait to see you're done & stock up

 

[cali_reef]

NICE!!

But those pine doors will warp in a few years.

Put down a bead of silicone on the inside of the stand, it should keep a few gallons in the stand :lol2:..

 

[masterswimmer]

NICE!!

But those pine doors will warp in a few years.

Put down a bead of silicone on the inside of the stand, it should keep a few gallons in the stand :lol2:..

+1
Trapped moisture down there is going to be your nemesis. (That's an all encompassing nemesis for every one of us Ming). Will you be setting up some type of central dehumidification system down there? It would be a really good idea.

Russ

 

[ming]

I'm hoping waterproof paint will help against the warping. My current stand's door is pine and it has held up fairly well against warping with the same paint.

I actually was thinking about trapping water in the stand just in case of any spill. Not with silicone, but with either titebond 3 waterproof wood glue, or with some extra waterproof paint sealing the cracks.

No real plans for dehumidification though.

 

[finksmart]

No real plans for dehumidification though.

Just keep the AC on. It should act as a chiller for your fishroom and dehumidifier.

 

[JARRETT SHARK]

i seen someone use pond liner to trap water under there stand and underneath the sump in case of water spill

 

[NYreefNoob]

i coated and ealed the bottom f my stand just for that reason so an yspills wuld end up all over the floor, looking good ming