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allenjj

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This year for my birthday, I finally found a large tank (450 gallons) that I was able to get to begin my upgrade from my 180 gallon display with 125 gallon sump, 40 gallon refugium and 130 gallon make up water system. I have nicknamed the tank "The Beast" and have begun the process of working towards a switch over. Hoping to share the journey and thought process in a way to benefit from others experience here. Many thanks to folks from CDMAS upstate who helped with the move and some of the MR folks who provided advice on getting to this step.
 

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allenjj

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Albany, NY
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Progress

Made some progress sanding the stand, priming and painting. Will be lightly sanding and putting the finish coat of black on. I liked the black since the primer and finish will cover the water stains in the stand and the finish will go well with my dining room where the tank is going. Picked up a 8oz Novus kit and now that I have a feel for what is needed, have ordered a couple of 64oz #1, #2 and a smaller amount of #3 that should arrive early next week. Also ordered a variable speed polisher to ease the work. Made sure I got plenty micro fiber bonnets so each step can get its own and not risk any particular matter scratching. Am waiting on Dolphin for a recommendation on pumps since my hammerhead gold isnt going to cut it pumping from the sump in the basement. I currently have just enough flow for my manifold and 2 returns, but with the added piping and returns on the bigger tank, will be increasing the head pressure beyond the limit of my current pump.
 

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allenjj

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Albany, NY
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Refinishing

Figured I would get it clean and as scratch free to begin with so I can see where sanding will be required. I know I may need to sand some and am ready to place order for a range of wet sanding grits. Do you suggest a light overall sanding to start with, with additional spot sanding any heavily scratched areas or does my approach sound right?

IME... Novus 2 & 3 will remove light scratches, but any 'real' scratches will require sanding (usually from 1000 grit to 8000+) before using Novus 3
 

albano

Saltwater since 1973
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Are you gonna have 2 viewing sides? That's a lot of sq footage!
I would suggest putting the tank down on either face to work on the inside...I also 'divided' the tank into quadrants with masking tape on the outside, and then add'l pieces of tape to 'highlight' where deeper scratches are.
I sanded the entire panels, inside and out, with extra 'attention' to deeper scratches. WET sanding is key to success.
 

allenjj

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Albany, NY
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Sanding

Since its going against a wall there is really only one viewing side. Had thought about sanding as a starting point since there are a lot of micro scratches. Sounds like you agree thats a good plan. Im not overly worried about missing sections but think your idea of doing it by quadrants makes it easier. Thats what I love about MR is there is always someone to get good ideas from. Just ordered the wet/dry sandpaper.

Are you gonna have 2 viewing sides? That's a lot of sq footage!
I would suggest putting the tank down on either face to work on the inside...I also 'divided' the tank into quadrants with masking tape on the outside, and then add'l pieces of tape to 'highlight' where deeper scratches are.
I sanded the entire panels, inside and out, with extra 'attention' to deeper scratches. WET sanding is key to success.
 

allenjj

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Albany, NY
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Equipment

Well I am already starting with a 125 gallon sump located in the basement directly below the tank. Also have a 40 gallon refugium directly above the sump. 4 ecotech radions light the current tank (which was overkill) so those will be great on the new tank. Currently have 2 - 65 gallon storage tanks for RODI make up water and salt water, but thinking I am going to add a 125 gallon for salt and use the current two for RODI so that I always have a good supply. I have 4 tunze pumps (overkill on current tank) for circulation. Have a dual chamber Reef Octopus Calcium Reactor, and 2 Two Little Fishies 550 reactors (one running GFI and one running Carbon) both powered off my manifold. Currently have the large Reef Octopus Protein Skimmer (which I will need to upgrade to something else, not sure what yet).
 

allenjj

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Albany, NY
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Water flow

Need to replace my hammerhead gold as it does not have enough head pressure nor flow for the new tank. Figured I would share that Dolphin is recommending a Diamond Aqua Sea 9250 type 3 or 4 seal pump to meet the return flow and head pressure needs. That should give me enough power to continue to run my manifold and all my reactors off of the one return in addition to enough flow for the tank. I have multiple unions in the current system along with gate valves to allow fine control over access and flow. Will be adding more since the new tank has twice the drains and returns of the old one. I am also planning on increasing the size of the primary return to 2 inches up to the underside of the tank where it will then split for each of the 4 return heads. Each of the 4 return lines will have its own gate valve, check valve and unions so that they can be independently adjusted and disconnected as needed (much in the way my current system is set up). Seems I will need to run a new 15 amp service dedicated for the pump. Although I probably wont start with it, am thinking I may want to add some additional pumps in tank and set up a circular gyre motion alternating directions once every hour or two. In the mean time will use the returns and 4 tunze pumps I have to create random motion while I evaluate whether its enough, or wave boxes and swirls should be added or do I try a gyre flow. I think two of my returns may be directed to the bottom of the tank (in a type of closed loop like option) creating an upward flow to keep particles suspended.
 

ClosetFishGeek

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Nice project. Some great advice from Alfie on buffing it out. Do yourself a favor and buff it out as perfect as you can. It will never be this easy again.(unless its completely empty) If you need some people to do it for you I have those contacts. In adition, I would most definitely look into a closed loop. When I setup my new tank I will definitely be using one. I have 4 mp60's and 4 mp40's on my 500( 10' x 30" x 31") and it still isn't enough. If you can really spend time on a proper closed loop(hidden and intergrated with your rockwork you can eliminate some of those "hard to reach flow areas. Just my 2cents and enjoy the build it is always very exciting.

Thane
 

allenjj

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Albany, NY
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Buffing

Thats in part why I bought the variable speed buffer so that I can control the speed and keep friction down to help eliminate burn. I agree that I want it as perfect as I can get it now since it wont be this easy once stocked.

and becareful when using a buffer, very easy to burn the acrylic, and dont stay in one spot very long with it
 

allenjj

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Albany, NY
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Water flow

Thats in part why I have been looking at the gyre flow patterns as it seems easier to generate flow going in one direction for a little bit and then switch directions. Since Im not sure how to make the returns not interfere with flow patterns, am thinking of piping down from the return and creating a semi-type closed loop under the rock work pushing water up to keep suspension. By taping off the current returns, then I dont need to worry as much as draining in the event of a power failure other than siphons. Will post some pics of thoughts when I get the chance.

Nice project. Some great advice from Alfie on buffing it out. Do yourself a favor and buff it out as perfect as you can. It will never be this easy again.(unless its completely empty) If you need some people to do it for you I have those contacts. In adition, I would most definitely look into a closed loop. When I setup my new tank I will definitely be using one. I have 4 mp60's and 4 mp40's on my 500( 10' x 30" x 31") and it still isn't enough. If you can really spend time on a proper closed loop(hidden and intergrated with your rockwork you can eliminate some of those "hard to reach flow areas. Just my 2cents and enjoy the build it is always very exciting.

Thane
 

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