Custom Look CadLights 50Long
- Thread starter twan
- Start date
OK my bulkheads hold. I could not leak tank the display and the overflow at the same time. I needed the tank off the ground and hanging over an edge to test the overflow.
My stand is not in and I do not trust the holding table it is on now to hold good enough when filled 100% with water. So this weekend I will leak test the display with the tank on the floor.
What I did notice though is how soon water started to drain out of the overflow through the durso. I am new to this. The tank is 18" high, at what height should my durso be pulling water in?
The pipe looks short and the level in the overflow looked low because of it but again there is no water running over the teeth to see how far of a drop it has to take because the tank is not running.
Questions:
1.) Is this something I have to wait on or is there a standard height my durso should be in this size tank.
2.) I prime and then cement my pipes inside the overflow box into the bulkheads, correct? There is no other method to secure them?
My stand is not in and I do not trust the holding table it is on now to hold good enough when filled 100% with water. So this weekend I will leak test the display with the tank on the floor.
What I did notice though is how soon water started to drain out of the overflow through the durso. I am new to this. The tank is 18" high, at what height should my durso be pulling water in?
The pipe looks short and the level in the overflow looked low because of it but again there is no water running over the teeth to see how far of a drop it has to take because the tank is not running.
Questions:
1.) Is this something I have to wait on or is there a standard height my durso should be in this size tank.
2.) I prime and then cement my pipes inside the overflow box into the bulkheads, correct? There is no other method to secure them?
question time friends!
1.). how tight do I make the bulkhead nut? hand tight all the way then 1/4 turn with a wrench? no wrench at all? the bulkhead is abs.
2.) the only sch40 I have on the tank is in the overflow and white. Can I paint this black or
is that a no-no since it will be in direct contact with the water?
3.) what do I use to trim the acrylic cover to make is useable?
1.). how tight do I make the bulkhead nut? hand tight all the way then 1/4 turn with a wrench? no wrench at all? the bulkhead is abs.
2.) the only sch40 I have on the tank is in the overflow and white. Can I paint this black or
is that a no-no since it will be in direct contact with the water?
3.) what do I use to trim the acrylic cover to make is useable?
Week 5 Cycling
*Second week using only Salifert Test kits for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate.
*They are much more precise and worth the money.
*I have not started testing phosphates with my new Hannah checker yet.
*My Pinpoint Salinity monitor is now reliable after a few calibrations.
*Refreactometer and calibration fluid confirms I am now calibrated and ready to rock.
Chart:
Water color against white background:
Ammonia pretty much gone.
Nitrite pretty much gone.
Nitrate through the roof in both.
I thought about doing a water change in the buckets but I should be able to move the rock to my display in 1 week. So this water change will just be wasteful as I will be doing a 100% change when moving the rock.
Question time:
1.) No worries about leaving the rock in this high nitrate water for another week right?
2.) Should I also start feeding the rock a pinch of flake every other day to keep things going before the rock can make it to the tank?
*Second week using only Salifert Test kits for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate.
*They are much more precise and worth the money.
*I have not started testing phosphates with my new Hannah checker yet.
*My Pinpoint Salinity monitor is now reliable after a few calibrations.
*Refreactometer and calibration fluid confirms I am now calibrated and ready to rock.
Chart:
Water color against white background:
Ammonia pretty much gone.
Nitrite pretty much gone.
Nitrate through the roof in both.
I thought about doing a water change in the buckets but I should be able to move the rock to my display in 1 week. So this water change will just be wasteful as I will be doing a 100% change when moving the rock.
Question time:
1.) No worries about leaving the rock in this high nitrate water for another week right?
2.) Should I also start feeding the rock a pinch of flake every other day to keep things going before the rock can make it to the tank?
Pic below is my overflow pipes after 3 coats of Krylon Fusion. They will sit for 5 more days.
I miscalculated how far the pipes slip into the bulkheads when I taped off to paint.
The result is a 1/4" of white showing just before each bulkhead.
It will be buried down the bottom of the overflow and never seen though.
I miscalculated how far the pipes slip into the bulkheads when I taped off to paint.
The result is a 1/4" of white showing just before each bulkhead.
It will be buried down the bottom of the overflow and never seen though.
- Location
- Miami
? Y did u paint it and if its in the overflo you wouldnt really see it.
- Location
- Howell, NJ
:lol2: bingo
You will see the top of the pipes, when looking from above or 3/4 angle and I don't want anything distracting your eye away from the tank. As the return exits the overflow wall it is black loc-line into the tank. Just 1/2" away you would see how it connects to the other side of the overflow wall and that would have been white PVC. No good! :shocked:
Knowing the tops of the pipes being white would be an eye sore & I cant get the tank wet yet due to no stand (time on my hands), I painted the pipes all the way down and will be giving it enough time to properly cure.
Ohh 1 more reason, the crappy overflow cover that CAD lights refunded me money on.
I tried to trim it down so I could salvage it and make it a usable piece...............until I fitted it to the tank and realized if I wanted to use it then my BRS screen top would not sit flush. So I ditched the overflow cover idea and needed to paint the pipes.
I tried to trim it down so I could salvage it and make it a usable piece...............until I fitted it to the tank and realized if I wanted to use it then my BRS screen top would not sit flush. So I ditched the overflow cover idea and needed to paint the pipes.
Looking @ AI cords
Why have a sleek minimalist design with intrusive black cords messing up my white/grey theme?
Paint those suckers!
Looking @ AI Mounting
*#10 32 2" Machine Screws
*10"x8" "L" brackets painted grey to match wall color.
* 1/2" Spacers painted white to match AI Fixture.
Looking @ Equipment Panel
Crappy Picture but you get the idea. If I had to do it all over again I would remove the panel from the wall and use rectangle cuts to make slots to pass cords through (not round). The Apex and EB8 have spacers to let them breathe below. I fit everything on the upper panel leaving me the lower to expand (ecotech battery backup, another EB8, dosing, reactors.) In the future I will color code cords to outlets with matching electrical tape. I will get better pictures in the future. This is on the wall directly behind the tank
Why have a sleek minimalist design with intrusive black cords messing up my white/grey theme?
Paint those suckers!
Looking @ AI Mounting
*#10 32 2" Machine Screws
*10"x8" "L" brackets painted grey to match wall color.
* 1/2" Spacers painted white to match AI Fixture.
Looking @ Equipment Panel
Crappy Picture but you get the idea. If I had to do it all over again I would remove the panel from the wall and use rectangle cuts to make slots to pass cords through (not round). The Apex and EB8 have spacers to let them breathe below. I fit everything on the upper panel leaving me the lower to expand (ecotech battery backup, another EB8, dosing, reactors.) In the future I will color code cords to outlets with matching electrical tape. I will get better pictures in the future. This is on the wall directly behind the tank
Looking @ Invert list
CuC From http://reefcleaners.org, no hermits.
Skunk Cleaner Shrimp.
Orange Sea Star or Blue Linckia Sea Star.
Squamosa Clam.
Maxima Clam.
Looking @ Macro list
Chaeto in the sump.
Mangroves in the display
Looking @ Coral list
I love rics so there will for sure be a ric island. After that will be my 1st try at SPS/LPS.
Looking @ Fish list
Starry Blenny
Flame Angelfish Or Tang Or Butterfly
Four Line Wrasse
Pink Skunk Clownfish (trio)
========================================================================
What if anything in the above list(s) are in conflict?
What kind of tang or butterfly might I substitute in for the Flame Angelfish? *Display size is 50g, sump volume is 22g. *
CuC From http://reefcleaners.org, no hermits.
Skunk Cleaner Shrimp.
Orange Sea Star or Blue Linckia Sea Star.
Squamosa Clam.
Maxima Clam.
Looking @ Macro list
Chaeto in the sump.
Mangroves in the display
Looking @ Coral list
I love rics so there will for sure be a ric island. After that will be my 1st try at SPS/LPS.
Looking @ Fish list
Starry Blenny
Flame Angelfish Or Tang Or Butterfly
Four Line Wrasse
Pink Skunk Clownfish (trio)
========================================================================
What if anything in the above list(s) are in conflict?
What kind of tang or butterfly might I substitute in for the Flame Angelfish? *Display size is 50g, sump volume is 22g. *
Tank is on stand with padding, sump is in with cords routed and padding underneath, removable center brace is back in, plumbing is dry fitted! :WOOT
It was my 1st time plumbing something with multiple fittings/bends/valves. It was daunting but taking it one piece at a time helped.
Mounting the lights 12" AWL tonight.
This weekend I will put the rock in, add sand, add water, add salt.
Once that is done can I test run this thing draining and pumping back up with the fittings snugly pushed into each other to check how it runs before primer/glue?
I would think so.............just making sure..........
It was my 1st time plumbing something with multiple fittings/bends/valves. It was daunting but taking it one piece at a time helped.
Mounting the lights 12" AWL tonight.
This weekend I will put the rock in, add sand, add water, add salt.
Once that is done can I test run this thing draining and pumping back up with the fittings snugly pushed into each other to check how it runs before primer/glue?
I would think so.............just making sure..........
Last edited:
Looking @ Tank/Light/Stand/Sump Install
Tasks Completed:
See pics.
Tasks to Follow:
Tasks Completed:
See pics.
Tasks to Follow:
- Fill up tank rest of way with RODI.
- Fill sump 1/2 way with RODI.
- Run return pump and check how overflow/plumbing/bulkheads/valves work.
- Tear down pipes if all works well to primer/glue.
- Salt water in tank/sump to 1.025.
- Rinse rock in fresh RODI then add to tank & aquascape.
- Level display.
- Replace two AI cables with longer, 90 deg bend versions for cleaner install.
- Adjust AI mounting screws to level them out.
- Program outlets on Apex.
- Setup Tunze ATO.
- Calibrate PH probe.
- Add CuC in one week as long as tests come back OK (rock has been curing 6-7 weeks.)
- Location
- Poughkeepsie
Amazing thread, great looking tank.
Ok question.
I finish filling the display and sump with RODI, run the pump and adjust the flow then confirm there are no leaks.
I tear apart the plumbing, dry it then primer/glue those spots that require.
In the meantime I salt my water in both locations to 1.025.
Now when I put the plumbing back on, glued, how long does it have to cure before it has (salt) water traveling through it again. All this gluing is below the bulkheads mind you.
I finish filling the display and sump with RODI, run the pump and adjust the flow then confirm there are no leaks.
I tear apart the plumbing, dry it then primer/glue those spots that require.
In the meantime I salt my water in both locations to 1.025.
Now when I put the plumbing back on, glued, how long does it have to cure before it has (salt) water traveling through it again. All this gluing is below the bulkheads mind you.
- Location
- Miami
That's great you should be good to go. Let it run..
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