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Will-I-Am

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Hello all I am new to saltwater and would like to try to start a nano tank. I have been keeping FW fish for about 2 years now. I have a Walmart special 10 gal the lights are nothing special so I am sure that New lights are a must. What all am I going to need to get started? Thanks,

Will-I-Am
 
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Anonymous

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I am a nano novice myself. However, there's a Nano Tank Buildoff contest going on. Looking through the threads should give you some basic ideas as well as reading posts from similar questions in this forum.

In my humble opinion, a nano tank might not be the best introduction to the world of saltwater. I'm finding it to be much more complex than keeping the larger tanks.
 

brandon4291

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Good advice guys. I would also recommend visiting and extracting some information from our beginner's forum because it's chock full of such good detail that even experienced aquarists find help commonly. I check it regularly as well to search for new inspirations...

If you do choose to start with a 10g nano, I'd say absolutes are a salinity meter and a reliable temperature zone. Do whatever you need to do to keep the temp at 80 maximum and roughly 75 minimum. I know there is some lee way for variance here, but I'd like to think that if you can keep the water stable somewhere in this range you have the temp thing nicked. With the new saltwater aquarium filled with SW, test it regularly with the salinity meter and get a feel for the freshwater topoff requirements. I'd go with the lighting last...it can be chosen based on other factors that don't have much to do with the initial balance of the new aquarium. Just my two cents.

Welcome though!@ glad to have you onboard. Couldn't have picked a better place to befriend for saltwater information@!

B
 

Will-I-Am

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When I top of do I need to use water that has something in it to take the chlorine out? Also is there someone online that I can buy a salinity meter, or other SW supplies?
 
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Anonymous

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May I recommend a good book as your first purchase?

The Conscientious Marine Aquarist

I don't agree with everything in there but it's rare to get two hobbiests to agree. What it will do for you though is explaing all the buzz words, equipment, and common problems.

Starting without a good book can get expensive very fast as people tend to buy inadequate or unnecessary equipment the first time.
 
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Anonymous

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Will-I-Am":1cmffa85 said:
When I top of do I need to use water that has something in it to take the chlorine out? Also is there someone online that I can buy a salinity meter, or other SW supplies?
Your best bet for top off to avoid using tap water conditioners would be a good Reverse Osmosis unit (RO) and if possible one that will also Deionize water(DI)...as for a salinity meter, id advise against cheapy hydrometers..a few months ago i invested in what is called a refractometer..It is far more accurate than a cheapy hydrometer and a bit more expensive...I got mine for about 52bucks shipped...IMO(in my opinion) a good investment worth its weight in gold...Online suppliers there are tons of them and for drystock some good ones are Championlighting.com, MarineDepot.com, Drsfostersmith.com, petsolutions.com, I have gone through all of these mentioned places for drygoods and have had good dealings with them...Also yes, if you are doing top off with tap water, a dechlorinitor is a must...do not add salt when doing top offs, that is a common new person mistake.. I agree with Guy and buying a good book as a first purchase... the one by Robert Tullock is a good book too...
And for the record my tank (20gal) stays a constant 78degrees, even with my MH/PC lights...
 

Will-I-Am

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Ok just to let you guys know i'm not going to start this tank untill I have everything right. I don't want to kill any fish. Please tell me if I have this right.

1. Fill tank w/ chlorine free water (Will PRIME work?)
2. Add live sand and live rock?
3. Wait for tank to cycle?
4. Test water (Will my freshwater test kits work?)
5. Add coral (what kind are low light And how much light?)
6. Add clean up crew (how many and what kind)
7. Add fish (any ideas?)
8. Top off to the same level with salt free water?

For water flow I have a few filters but no power heads. Will a filter work with out the media in it? When I add the top off water I can't add the water and then put then Prime in can I?
 
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Anonymous

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You're going to get 100's of opinions on that list.

What you're suggesting will work but I, of course, would do it slightly different. But then, most of us will start a tank differently.
 
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Anonymous

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Will-I-Am":3rveb7fi said:
4. Test water (Will my freshwater test kits work?)
Not really..pH test kit (even the high range) are usually under what a saltwater/reef tank is..typically 8.2-8.4(the latter 8.4 being high IMO) is the range you want to keep your tank at so youll probably need a high pH range test..typically sold as a SW/Reef test kit...as for ammonia, nitrates and nitrites, im not sure...Alk will need a different test kit for sw if im not mistaken..
Will-I-Am":3rveb7fi said:
For water flow I have a few filters but no power heads. Will a filter work with out the media in it? When I add the top off water I can't add the water and then put then Prime in can I?
Youre off to a good start asking lots of questions..I would prefer Power Heads and in time you will to but for the now yes, your filter will work..I take it youre on a budget seeing some of the corners you want to cut (frankly i dont blame you and it isnt a knock against you) but take it from me cuz ive been down this road when i started...You dont want to skimp on money with certain items, seeing how much livestock costs, you dont want to continuously replace it...A good skimmer, good water quality and good lighting will ensure a fair amount of success in your tank..For low light corals youre looking at mainly zoanthids commonly refered as zoos or polyps and mushroom corals..Honestly, I would go at least PC lighting at maybe 55W for your ten..With that lighting you should be able to keep soft corals (softies) such as leathers and toadstools (sinularia sp and sarcophyton sp)..for a clean up crew that depends...snails for sure.maybe some cerith snails, turbos and definitely nassariaus snails (to stir around the sand bed)..Hermit crabs are optional and you will get mixed opinions on these guys..keep in mind when i mention hermits, im talking about dwarf hermit crabs such as blue legged, scarlet reef, zebra etc...go to www.liveaquaria.com to get an idea of what they sell in the way of hermits...For fish youre limited due to the size of you tank..a couple of clown fish maybe a psuedochromi or a royal gramma..you kinda want to steer clear of damsel fish despite what your LFS clerk may tell ya..they arent bad fish but can turn out to be quite aggressive for such small fish...to answer your last question, yes top off with salt free water...if you want to visit the General reef Discussion or New reefkeeper discussion part of this board to get more visibility for questions...

Welcome to Reefs.org
 

Sugar Magnolia

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1. Fill tank w/ chlorine free water (Will PRIME work?)

RO/DI would be the best way to go. Using tap water, even conditioned tap water is going to cause major problems in the long run. THere are so many impurites in tap that cause nuisance algae blooms. If RO/DI isn't an option you can buy bottled distilled at Walmart for 57 cents a gallon.

2. Add live sand and live rock?

Yup, add that in and let the tank cycle.

3. Wait for tank to cycle?

The cycle will take anywhere from 2-8 weeks depending on how cured/uncured your rock is.

4. Test water (Will my freshwater test kits work?)

There are some test kits that can be used for fresh and salt, but IMO they aren't very reliable. Do yourself a favor, and buy good quality test kits. I recommend Salifert.

5. Add coral (what kind are low light And how much light?)

Nope, don't add corals yet. After the tank cycles, you'll want to add in your clean up crew to take care of any accumulated detritus from the die off. Wait another month or two before adding in corals.

As far as lighting goes, there are alot of options. Stop over at www.hellolights.com for some great prices on lighting upgrades. 2x96 watt PC's would be good, or you could go the MH route.The lights that come with a standard 10 gallon aren't bright enough to keep anything much.

6. Add clean up crew (how many and what kind)

You want to go with some diverstiy in your selection here. Different snails perform different tasks in the tank. Nassarius for the sand bed stirring and general detritus detail, ceriths to stir the sand bed and clean the glass. Margaritas, nerites, astreas, trochus all clean the glass and LR surfaces. I'd stay away from the larger turbos in a 10. They tend to bulldoze frags and topple smaller pieces of LR.

Hermits - your choice. I've come to dislike my blue legs, they tend to be more aggressive and ominivorous than my scarlet reef hermits.

7. Add fish (any ideas?)

Stick with just two fish. www.liveaquaria.com has a fish section labeled "nano fish". That'll give you some ideas of which fish make good choices for smaller tanks.


8. Top off to the same level with salt free water?

Correct. Top off daily, 10% water change weekly.

For water flow I have a few filters but no power heads.

The general rule of thumb for water flow is to turn over at least 10-15x gph, so in your 10 gallon tank you'll want at least 100-150 gph flowing through the tank. This can be accomplished by using the HOB filter that you have and adding in a small powerhead. Micro-jets are an excellent choice because of their small profile and the adjustable flow.

Will a filter work with out the media in it?

HOB can be run without the media, but I like to run a poly/carbon pad to catch any gunk that's floating in the water column. Change the media out wekly - you'll be surprised at how quickly the pads get filled with junk.

When I add the top off water I can't add the water and then put then Prime in can I?

Like I mentioned - ditch the prime and use a better quality water.
 
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Anonymous

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sugar magnolia":9kmgekth said:
5. Add coral (what kind are low light And how much light?)

Nope, don't add corals yet. After the tank cycles, you'll want to add in your clean up crew to take care of any accumulated detritus from the die off. Wait another month or two before adding in corals.
Honestly you could add both simultaneously...There are no adverse effects with adding corals and clean up crew at the same time...Im even doubting this would cause a "bioload" issue, unless you over stock that fast...if you add one or two corals and a few snails and hermits, no harm no foul.

guy":9kmgekth said:
but it's rare to get two hobbiests to agree
See guy is right as even me and sugar seem to have different opinions on how to go about your step five...
 

Will-I-Am

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LordNikon you said that least PC lighting at maybe 55W would work right? You do mean 55 watts of PC lighting right? The hood on my 10gal takes the light bulbs that you screw in am I going to be able to find them that I can screw in? This light thing is giving me some trouble. thanks,

Will-I-Am
 
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Anonymous

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Your hood for one more than likely isnt rated to 55W...two i dont think youll find 55W PC lights to accomodate that hood...You would have to probably have to invest in a whole new light setup...Unfortunately, the lights that come with an aquarium arent designed for reef tanks..They may claim that, but they arent...You wont find many if any running NO lights as a primary light source..Most hobbiest keep anywhere between PC lights up to MH and even a combonation of them..My light system consists of 175W MH with 56W of PC lights as actinic supplement...

Here is a rough price list of what ive got going on drygoods.

Bak Pak 2r skimmer- $165 (shipped express thats why it cost so much)
175W MH hood,ballast and bulb- $269 (~300 shipped from Champion Lighting)
Hood upgrade a year later-$240 (shipped including PC bulbs)
MH bulb replacement a year later-$60

3 Powerheads- $60-70 (depending on model)
heater-$20

This doesnt include any livestock or Live rock/sand
LR was running me around $6lb at nearly 30lbs (some of that is including what corals grew on which usually cost more because its a coral purchase)

salt- can cost anywhere between 20-60 bucks depending on the amount you buy

RO unit- $130 (shipped, 24GPD unit)

Hydrometer-$8
Refractometer-$52 (a far better and more accurate version of a hydrometer-the price included shipping)
Test kits-depending on which brand you get but anywhere between 30-60 dollars and maybe even more for the really good brands...

This is all for my 20gal tank...salt and LR and LS and stuff will be a bit cheaper for you since you have half the size of my tank...

Personally, i say its all worth it regardless of the amount of money..Its a long term investment if you want to stay in the hobby and the enjoyment of a pretty reef tank is priceless...Also considering the amount of money you maybe spending on livestock, continous replacement will cost more in the long run.. And all of my equipment was bought brand new in box...There is also the option of buying used...For livestock and what not, you maybe able to join a reef club and get fragment corals for alot cheaper and even free...Andy H (a fellow Reefs.org member) I think lives in SC...perhaps you could also PM him for some advice and places to go or reefclubs in your area...
 

Will-I-Am

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I am just going to get one of those and do it right. Can you buy those JBJ nano cubes online? If so are they really ready to go or will I have to upgrade the lights? Thanks,

Will-I-Am
 
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Anonymous

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They are RTR (ready to run)...That is a good choice..you wont need to upgrade lighting, however there are modifications to include more lighting if you need...a few members on here have them so ask them.. Nano Discussion Moderator Matt Wandell has one..PM him and ask
 

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