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Anonymous

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Ok after doing nearly a year of research and having at least two false starts before I gave my 29g to my gf for show-quality goldfish, I'm ready to take the proverbial plunge into reefkeeping. This time, several extenuating circumstances lead me to conclude that a 20L would be a good choice for me:

- Financial inputs - less stocking requirements
- Possibility of move around summertime (Graduation!!)
- Optimum use of existing equipment - 2x65W PC, CPR BakPak2
- Existing space in house

Twenty gallons doesn't leave a ton of room for newbie error. Also, I wouldn't want to pollute the visual aesthetic of the tank with heaters, skimmer, powerheads, etc. so I will include a 10g sump. Plumbing the sump leads to most of my questions.

Several threads have been going around here and on RC regarding external durso standpipes. An internal Durso eats up a fair amount of room in the tank. Several variations of the Durso have emerged that minimize the size of the skimmer box but extend the size of the plumbing on the back of the tank. So my first question is: What sort of Durso options work for you? Quiet operation is my number one concern!!

My next questions deals with bulkheads, pumps, and flow rates. Concensus seems to be that a 1" drain line matched up with either a single 1" return or two 1/2" returns can be the best option. Regardless of the quantity of bulkheads, would the ideal placement in a 20L be around 2" below the waterline?

Also, can anyone discuss the pros and cons of submerged vs. non-submerged pumps? My research indicates that the Mag-Drive line of pumps is certainly less expensive than Iwakis and the like. Also, it prevents the drilling of a hole in the sump to feed the pump. Can anyone give me reasons to NOT choose a submersible Mag-type pump for the sump return?

Utilizing my existing 2x65 PC, I would like to keep zoos, mushrooms, softies and possibly a few pieces of monti. Does the monti have the same flow needs that other SPS pieces need? Would a turnover of 15x to 20x per hour be suitable for these animals? I'm thinking about using Loc-Line heads for water circulation. Their clean lines and professional grade would probably make me happier than a DIY spray bar.

As you may be able to tell, I put a bit of thought into this tank. This isn't even anywhere near all of my thoughts on the matter. I have to get something soon. Looking at beautiful tanks on RC, RDO, and NR is driving me insane. Since I'll graduate, get a job and move soon, I figure that a small, well-designed tank is the best thing for me right now. A couple of years down the road, once I've made progress on my debts, I'll make the jump to a bigger (120) tank, but this can last me for a while and not hurt my pocket too bad.

Whew! I tried to highlight the questions. If you made it through all of this, I commend you. You get a gold star. :D Now off to make my excel spreadsheets with prices for various equipment schemes! Obsessive? Me? No way!

Thanks for reading.
Nathan
 
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Anonymous

Guest
Nathan,
Check out what's called a "Stockman standpipe." It's featured on Rich Durso's website if you can't find any links. Much more compact than a durso. I'll write more a bit later, gotta go open presents :D
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Matt,

I've seen the Stockman pipe before. In fact, I was going to put one on my 29g. The only thing that matters about this design in the nano reef is that it would still need to run from top to bottom. I suppose that's not a terribly big deal. Do you use a Stockman? Is it pretty quiet?

Enjoy your presents. We got impatient and opened ours last night :P
N
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
I used to have one on my 30, in an external overflow box. Just as quiet as a Durso, it's the same exact principle at work. I'm assuming if you go with the external durso you plan on having some type of skimming box inside the tank, and you can't exactly put anything *underneath* it. Personally, I would put a two piece (square, not a triangle) corner overflow in and drill it for a 1" drain.

I think 1" might just be overkill (3/4" would probably work) for the drain, but better to overdo it than underdo it I suppose. For a return, there's really no reason to have a 1" return. You can get pumps up to something like 750gph with 3/4" returns. Locline only makes up to 3/4" parts anyway. You can then have the return come up through the overflow box, tee off so you have 3/4" returns on each end of the tank, and hide all the plumbing in the canopy. I'm sort of just going on personal preferences here...I don't like to have *any* plumbing sticking out the back of the tank, and if I can hide it in overflow boxes or the canopy I do. You can plumb it however you like, but I think having returns on each end of the tank is important. As for placement of the returns, I would get a locline Y fitting and have each return point a little flow at the water surface, and a little at the rockwork/corals. I would place the returns just below the water surface, but 2" lower will work fine too. Just make sure that your surface is getting lots of turbulence from the return--you want to see it rippling and rolling.

Let me try and draw a wee diagram of how *I* would do it...

_____________________________________
I......................................................I...O..I
I......................................................I...O..I
I......................................................I____I
IY.........................................................Y..I
I...............................................................I
I____________________________________I

OK, obviously I suck at doing this, but this is a top view of the tank. I think I got the dimensions about right. The Os represent the holes for the drain and return. The Ys are the locline returns. Connect O to Ys however you like. Your LFS can special order internal overflow boxes from www.truvuaquariums.com with predrilled return holes. The dimensions are about 6"X6".

I see no reason why a Mag wouldn't work just fine. Cons: adds more heat to water than an ex., not as powerful. Pros: much cheaper, simpler. 20X per hour is a good turnover to shoot for. Another thing you may want to consider for the future is two small pumps on a wavemaker, rather than one large one. It's good to create random chaotic flow in your tank, especially if you want to keep an SPS coral.

As far as your corals, you've selected good starter corals. Mushrooms appreciate low flow, so you'll want to either keep them low in the tank or shield them with rocks somehow. Depending on the softie, you can keep it in high or low flow. If you ask in the future about a specific coral, one of us can probably tell you where it might do best. OK, so Montipora spp. will be the most difficult coral to keep in your tank. It will do best right near the surface, in moderate to high flow and high lighting. As far as SPS corals go, it's one of the hardiest, but it's still a very demanding coral. IMO it can receive a bit less light AND flow than the other more difficult SPS corals like Pocillopora and Acropora. I've always had the best success with the purple variety. As a rule, I generally don't recommend ANY stony coral for a first tank, and absolutely not within the first 6 months. After you feel comfortable keeping the easier softies and have your maintenance routine down to a science, buy a small aquacultured frag and see how it does. You should be supplementing Ca/Alk and maintaining high pH either through Kalk drips or something like B-Ionic.

FWIW, mushrooms will sting Montipora and kill it if in direct contact. Also, shrooms have a habit of dividing like crazy and floating around the tank to kill your nice SPS corals. After adding Monti, you may want to consider removing your mushrooms/softies. I think it's far less hassle to just keep "an SPS tank" with no other types of coral, but I realize it's not very interesting to only have the one type of coral.

OK, I'm sure I left out a lot and probably created more questions than I answered, but there ya go. BTW, your 20 and 10 will make a great fuge and/or sump when you get your 120 going....

Hope this helps, Matt
 

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