I just setup my Eclipse 6 last night with 10lb sand. I installed a CSL 32W Retro Fit in the hood which is a perfect fit and 14 lbs. uncured LR. I put 1 3 lb LR and 1/2 cup of crushed coral from my 45 Gal Reef to help seed the tank. I'm running the standard filter system that comes with the tank and I put a Mini-Jet 404 for circulation. I had the light off all night and this morning the Temp is 85 deg F. What can I do to bring down the temp without spending lots of money. It will be a Reef tank w/Fish once it cycles. Going to frag some the coral from my 45 gal.
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Eclipse 6 Temp to high!!
- Thread starter 45gal_Reefman
- Start date
Good call guys, and if worse comes to worse we have been talking about chiller probes a lot in here lately and they get great reviews. It would mean drilling a one inch hole in the back of the plastic canopy to insert a plastic tube that is about 7 inches long. Attached to that is a fan and heat sink, all of it pretty small and this costs about ~$90. We can get a cooling effect in our systems even in the presence of warm air by enacting evaporation of the water column like Mike's tip to leave the lid off. A little more maintenance of the specific gravity, but a potential drop of 3-5 degrees consistently especially if fanned.
B
B
Well, I have left the light on for the past 10 hours and the tank got 90 Deg F. WOW!! I'm going to leave the hood open tonight and see how much the temp drops. I'm thinking about going to the local computer store and getting 2 4" fans and connecting them to the wiring for the light since they run on 12 dc and put one on each end of the back of the hood with 1 blowing in and the other blowing out. What do you think?
You could wire them to your lights, but I wouldn't. The fan might rob the lamps of power and cause them to not burn at the correct temperature. Or it could overdrive the ballast and cook it.
For my nano's, I just bought a cheap transformer at the hardware store. It's one of the kind that does lots of voltages, and has lots of plugs. I just cut the end off and soldered it to the fan leads. I like teh variable speed control I have. Since it's a DC motor, I can send less voltage to it and not worry about burning it up! I only have on 3" fan on each of my 15 and my 7 gal. the fans keep them nice and cool.
(OR maybe it was the 11,000 btu a/c that's in the room with it?) Seriously, I did buy the air conditioner just for my reefs. Why not enjoy the side effects of a $200 electric bill!
HTH
B
For my nano's, I just bought a cheap transformer at the hardware store. It's one of the kind that does lots of voltages, and has lots of plugs. I just cut the end off and soldered it to the fan leads. I like teh variable speed control I have. Since it's a DC motor, I can send less voltage to it and not worry about burning it up! I only have on 3" fan on each of my 15 and my 7 gal. the fans keep them nice and cool.
(OR maybe it was the 11,000 btu a/c that's in the room with it?) Seriously, I did buy the air conditioner just for my reefs. Why not enjoy the side effects of a $200 electric bill!
HTH
B
Matt,
It does not steal power or change the color of the bulbs. First, I don't think that pc's can change color because of how they work. I am not completely sure, but I think they run on really low power; they are sold as energy saver bulbs outside of the hobby. Second, it is wired before the ballast so that it is just as though you were plugging them into the same outlit. They are each drawing the same amount of power as if you had two cords. I think Apophis is talking about wiring a fan to the lights after the ballast. This would probably steal power from the lights, however, I think that it would make it so that the lights would not have the power to start, rather than change the color. I am sure someone with more electronic knowledge could explain it better than I can.
Mike
It does not steal power or change the color of the bulbs. First, I don't think that pc's can change color because of how they work. I am not completely sure, but I think they run on really low power; they are sold as energy saver bulbs outside of the hobby. Second, it is wired before the ballast so that it is just as though you were plugging them into the same outlit. They are each drawing the same amount of power as if you had two cords. I think Apophis is talking about wiring a fan to the lights after the ballast. This would probably steal power from the lights, however, I think that it would make it so that the lights would not have the power to start, rather than change the color. I am sure someone with more electronic knowledge could explain it better than I can.
Mike
Try this...
Unplug your power head/pump or whatever submersible water circulator is in the tank. Leave it off for a few hours and check the temp. I had a penguin 550 in my 20 gallon and it made about a 4 degree difference in the water temp.
I now run a hagen 201 set to a low flow and a cheap hang on filter with no media for flow and to increase evaporation. I have about 50 watts on the tank with T-8 flourescents and they make very little difference in the temp.(1-2 degrees).
I want to devise a low profile surge device to fit under a custom canopy for this tank. That way I can remove any mechanics from the water.
Dave
Unplug your power head/pump or whatever submersible water circulator is in the tank. Leave it off for a few hours and check the temp. I had a penguin 550 in my 20 gallon and it made about a 4 degree difference in the water temp.
I now run a hagen 201 set to a low flow and a cheap hang on filter with no media for flow and to increase evaporation. I have about 50 watts on the tank with T-8 flourescents and they make very little difference in the temp.(1-2 degrees).
I want to devise a low profile surge device to fit under a custom canopy for this tank. That way I can remove any mechanics from the water.
Dave
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