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Blk_Gto

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Hi guys,

It's been a while since I posted b/c I've been out of the reef business for bout a year. I've missed it alot and decided to get back into things. :lol: Previously, I've owned a 10G nano, 15G nano, and a 20G nano. Now I'd like to try something new. A sump! I believe a properly set up sump GREATLY simplifys life. It looks cleaner, increases water volume, and keeps the water level in the display tank consistent. It's also a great place to keep those starter fish so you don't need to tear appart you tank looking for them!

I'm thinking of pairing up my 15G tank w/ a 20G tank but I have a few questions.

1. When I drill the 15G glass tank, should I drill the bottom or the back side? Is this a personal preference or is one way better than the other? How should the overflow box be designed in either case? I was thinking it'd be best to place the overflow box in the back middle portion of the tank instead of the corner so that more surface scum can be picked up.

2. Where can I bring the tank to get drilled?

3. What size PVC pipe should I use for the water flowing out of the tank and the water flowing in? I'm sure it solely depends on the GPH you want flowing back into the tank but I'd like to get some feedback on people that have done it.

If anybody has websites or links to something similiar to what I'm trying to do, I'd really appreciate it.

After I get this set up, then I have the chance to play w/ the sump. What are some things that can be placed in the sump besides live rock and sand? I was planning on placing those items and also the skimmer/heater.

Thanks!
 

Len

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1. When I drill the 15G glass tank, should I drill the bottom or the back side? Is this a personal preference or is one way better than the other? How should the overflow box be designed in either case? I was thinking it'd be best to place the overflow box in the back middle portion of the tank instead of the corner so that more surface scum can be picked up.

It doesn't really matter, but most drill the bottom since it's a little easier to plumb (no elbow needed if you need a standpipe). Middle back is good, but corner is just as good. Either way, direct flow to the overflow and you'll have no surface skum.

2. Where can I bring the tank to get drilled?

You'll have to bring it to a glass shop .... perhaps someplace that does windows or mirrors, etc. If it's acrylic, you can do it yourself with a powerdrill and approriate bit.

3. What size PVC pipe should I use for the water flowing out of the tank and the water flowing in? I'm sure it solely depends on the GPH you want flowing back into the tank but I'd like to get some feedback on people that have done it.

For a nano, 3/4" is fine. You can always do 1" and choke it down with a ball valve, but 3/4" should suffice.

Welcome back to reefkeeping :P
 

Blk_Gto

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Len":d95p1euq said:

It doesn't really matter, but most drill the bottom since it's a little easier to plumb (no elbow needed if you need a standpipe). Middle back is good, but corner is just as good. Either way, direct flow to the overflow and you'll have no surface skum.

Thanks Len. Now this may seem like a stupid question but how do I plumb it once I drill the hole in the bottom? I've never owned a reef ready tank nor seen one up close. All I know is that it is normally 3 pieces of acrilic with slots on the top.
 

KorbinDallas

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Cool, I think we're going to have a lot to talk about. I'm currently doing the SAME thing. Except I'm doing a 15 gallon sump.

Right now I'm working on getting the main tank drilled. I decided to drill the outlet near the top of the tank so its quieter and wont take up so much space inside the tank. I might make some sort of overflow/skimmer thing, but I dont know yet. SOME glass places will drill for you, but most won't. It will probably cost you $20/hole. Its $0 - $10 more expensive to get your own diamond bit - shipped. I ordered one today from ameriglass. I got a 1"3/4 inch bit so I can install a 1" bulkhead. Make sure you have a drill press if you get one.

I'm getting my bulkheads and stuff from www.salvko.com. They're a bit cheaper and they're local for me.

I'll show you my sump if you show me yours :oops:
 

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Anonymous

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If you haven't already bought the tank, you should go with acrylic. Where in NorCal are you? In Sac, at least, I had no luck finding a glass shop that would guarantee they wouldn't crack the glass. Acrylic is much easier to drill on your own anyway. The method I would use is to wedge a piece of black acrylic in the corner of the tank (Imagine a triangle shape if you looked from the top of the tank) and silicone it in place. This is after your hole is drilled in the bottom of course. You need to buy a threaded bulkhead that screws into place with a rubber washer to connect piping through that hole to the sump. You can then have your sump return come up through the same compartment (drill a second hole right next to the first) and this will hide all your piping. The best way to figure this all out is to look at a reef ready at a local fish store, and then duplicate it.
HTH, Matt
 

Blk_Gto

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Thanks for all the replies guys!!! I've looked and learned alot since my last post so this should be a better post.

I live in Cupertino and I haven't started lookin at glass stores yet. If I do find anything, I'll let you guys know. And let me know too if you know of one. :D

I just finished moving all my stuff from my 15G to a 10G temporarily. Now it's time to clean out the 15G, then attempt to drill it. I have glass cutter but would really rather have someone else do it b/c I don't want to mess up. We'll see how it goes. I just realized I wlll have to cut out a portion of the stand for plumbing. Oh well.

Korbin - I thought of doing the same thing you were talkign about w/ the overflow positioned high in the tank. I found many sites which sell such things. I'll find a link for you if you can't find it. For me, I'm going to go w/ the 2 pieces of acrilic in the back to make a "log" like shape for the overflow of water. I think it looks cleaner than the other way.

I thought of using just 1 piece of acrilic to make a triangle-like shape but the problem I see here is that it would be difficult to silicone edges. I'd much rather silicone flat sides than the edges of the acrilic.

When you do finally attach the acrilic, make sure you silicone the pieces at least twice to the glass. Originally, I had split a small portion of my 15G w/ a sheet of acrilic and used a spraybar to return the water to the main side. Water would overflow from the main side to the smaller "sump" via a small notch I had cut out of the acrilic sheet. Well, after a few months, I started noticing particles of sand migrating towards the sump area. Apparently, there were some VERY small gaps between the silicone and acrilic at the bottom and a tiny bit of sand was getting in. It wasn't much of a problem. Just not enjoyable to look at.


Keep me updated on your progress!
 

Blk_Gto

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Korbin - is there any reason you decided to go w/ a 15G sump rather than 20? They have the same footprint but 20G are cheaper. Also, how large of a box are you creating for the overflow? I'm thinking for a 3/4" bulkhead, the base should be approx. 2" square. Is this right?

Matt- i've been thinkin of going acrilic. The reason I was gonna go glass is cause I have a 2 10s, 1 15, 1 20L, and 1 60 all in glass. As you can see, I have alot of tanks so I didn't want to buy another one. But who knows? If I can't get this thing drilled, I'm definitely going to go w/ a 26G flat back hex. Those things are SOOO COOL...... 8)
 

Blk_Gto

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Matt_Wandell":2xapvpe6 said:
You can then have your sump return come up through the same compartment (drill a second hole right next to the first) and this will hide all your piping.

Why would you want your sump return be located in the overflow of your sump intake? That just seems weird to me. I was hoping to use a powerful pump(suggestions please?) and the SCWD to push water to the main tank. That should generate enough current for a 15G.
 
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Anonymous

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"Why would you want your sump return be located in the overflow of your sump intake?"

To hide it...
In a nano especially, things like plumbing, heaters, thermometers, etc become very conspicuous and ugly IMO....

This is why I designed my nano to hide all noticeable signs that it was even a reef tank...
 

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