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ctxmonitor

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smog, you have are a very handy man... Very impressive and skillful might i add. Thanks for spending the time on posting this..

So how light light doing after in place for 3+ months?

Love to see this in person and see with my own eye, =)
 
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Hey guys/gals-it's SmoQ:)
Thanks ctxmonitor, I'm glad you like the write-up. The light is doing great after the 3 months period. My eyes don't hurt anymore (I guess I get used to the brightness:)). And I truly see a huge difference since I switched to LEDs. Especially in montis grown. Some zoas doubled their colonys too. I still have the light dimmed and I'm not planning to change that for a while as I'm happy with the results so far.
 

wld1783

ReefLEDLights
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Park Ridge
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Interesting that the 70 degree optics were the strongest. Are you sure they are 70 degree? Also, is perhaps the 60 degree frosted or hazed lens as well? Its just that I expected the 60 degree to be more stronger then the 70 degree. I also haven't seen 70 degree optics available.

The 60 I tested are not frosted.

I was surprised by the results but the proof is in the pudding...

Currently I only recommend the 60 if you want to keep light off the glass/acrylic..cleaning issues...

IMHO the 70 and 80 rock as they really snap on and don't need an adhesive.

Here is a link to the data sheet.

https://reefledlights.com/PDF/DIA.20-CREE-70,80(E)-1.pdf

Bill
 
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LED built ver 2.0

Long story short- I upgraded to a bigger tank, made another LED pendant and decided to update my led built thread. I received many PMs regarding the write-up and here is my attempt to explain in details some aspects of building led light and I'll try to clear some things I didn't explain quite right the last time:)

DSC_0003.jpg


I. First of all, here is an updated LED board scheme, I hope it will clear things up:

ledboardver2.jpg


Basically it's the same as the original one minus the confusing male-female jack connectors. Easier to understand that is:)

II.Soldering

Here's a short video demonstrating how to properly tin the wire and solder it to a LED star. If you follow that few simple steps, soldering will be a breeze, trust me.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=KhbS4E9kLtw

III.Bullet connectors

I received some questions regarding the use of bullet connectors. This is how they look like and pictured is also a crimping tool. They are very easy to use, cheap and also easy to disconnect if something goes wrong.


DSC_0001.jpg


DSC_0002.jpg


IV.Dimmer

A dimmer circuit. Please note that this will work only with Meanwell “D” drivers and that it's just my personal idea of how to put it together.

This is what you need to make a dimming circuit:

DSC_0007.jpg


Solderable breadboard is very helpful here. First thing you need to do is glue the pots onto the board. I used IC Gel to do that. In the picture I marked each leg, follow that for every dimmer.

DSC_0015.jpg


Next step is soldering the legs onto the board. Use just a little bit of solder and check with multimeter that there's no short between pot's prongs.

DSC_0016.jpg


Finally, solder wires onto the board and make sure there is a connection between the wire and the pot's legs. The kind of board I used makes it easier as you can move the wires away from the pot.

DSC_0020.jpg


Untitled-1.jpg


That's it. I suggest marking each wire that goes to the pot and connect the dimmer circuit following the driver's scheme in the first post

V.Adjusting the LED's forwarding current

This is very important and should not be ignored. The safe maximum current for Cree Xp-g's, X-RE's and XP-E's is 1000mA=1A. If you run your leds on higher than safe current, you are reducing the lifespan of leds. In order to adjust forwarding current you need to wire up a multimeter set to measure amperage into your circuit. Here's a good read explaining how to connect a multimeter to measure current. http://www.electronics-radio.com/articles/test-methods/meters/how-to-measure-current.php
Next thing you have to do is unscrew the 4 screws in the meanwell drivers and remove the top cover. There is a plastic screw labeled SVR2 on the bottom-left side of the meanwell. By turning it clockwise, you increase the current and counterclockwise, decreasing. Make sure the current does not exceed 1000mA . I suggest driving the blue crees at 700mA and white ones at 900-1000mA. Here's a picture of meanwell 60-48D guts, please follow that to locate the SVR2 screw.

DSC_0034.jpg


scr2.jpg


I hope that additional info will help you in your builds. Please comment and don't hesitate to ask questions. Happy New Year everyone. One more thing, I will ask moderators to move this post on top of the thread for better read.
 

xxnonamexx

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Excellent job on your write up. I have a question. I have been researching online for peoples opinions of what I am looking to build. I have a 120gal FOWLR tank. I had it reef but switched to FOWLR since it's easier on my budget and time. After doing some research I have come up with this idea. I have a canopy and would like to mount it into the canopy. I am debating if I really need a dimmer? I am looking to get a 20k look. Here is my laundry list that I have gathered. My other question is I feel its cheaper purchasing a unit/kit already done. What do you think?
I think I put it together:
1Meanwell ELN-60-48D driver $34
Fan Kit $41
2 color dimming kit $24
24 Royal Blue CREE XP-E $162
12 White 3W Cool White CREE LED with ~6500K $69
2 23' heatsinks pre driller/tapped $100
TOTAL=$430
 

qy7400

Member
Location
Long Island
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For a FO system why not use the LPC-35-700W driver, it's a constant current driver for under $20 and can power 12 LEDs. Based on you're list above....

$300 for a 36 LED kit (Reef LED has a 6 LED pre-assembled for $40)
$50 for 2 4.25x16 heat sink
$32 for the AC adapter and 2 120mm fans.
 

xxnonamexx

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For a FO system why not use the LPC-35-700W driver, it's a constant current driver for under $20 and can power 12 LEDs. Based on you're list above....

$300 for a 36 LED kit (Reef LED has a 6 LED pre-assembled for $40)
$50 for 2 4.25x16 heat sink
$32 for the AC adapter and 2 120mm fans.

You might be right going with the 2 16" heatsinks compared to the 24" another sight suggested 2 23" but I think 2 16" will be fine.

What do you mean by the 6 LED preassembled if I would be getting the 36 LED kit for $300?
2 16" heatsinks $50 and $32 AC adapter with fans $382

What do you think as far as cost savings of this versus a unit already built? I notice Marineland selling some inexpensive units. Thanks
 
Last edited:
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Excellent job on your write up. I have a question. I have been researching online for peoples opinions of what I am looking to build. I have a 120gal FOWLR tank. I had it reef but switched to FOWLR since it's easier on my budget and time. After doing some research I have come up with this idea. I have a canopy and would like to mount it into the canopy. I am debating if I really need a dimmer? I am looking to get a 20k look. Here is my laundry list that I have gathered. My other question is I feel its cheaper purchasing a unit/kit already done. What do you think?
I think I put it together:
1Meanwell ELN-60-48D driver $34
Fan Kit $41
2 color dimming kit $24
24 Royal Blue CREE XP-E $162
12 White 3W Cool White CREE LED with ~6500K $69
2 23' heatsinks pre driller/tapped $100
TOTAL=$430

Thanks

Your idea is good and it should work. However, for 36 leds you need 3 meanwells. You don't need a dimmer, but your blue to white ratio will make the tank look really blue and since it's FOWLR I would suggest more white leds. But well, it's your tank so if you like it that way that's OK with me. If you don't want the dimming capability I agree with above post, get the LPC-35-700W driver.
 

xxnonamexx

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Do you suggest less LEDs in general for a 120 gal 48x24x24?
I will skip the dimming aspect so I will go with the LPC driver.
How many whites to blue to get more of a white look?

I have a question I thought LEDs were supposed to not give off alot of heat compared to MH, PCs. T5's I notice Marineland units thin and I don't even think they have fans. I am suprised the fans needed with the heatsink for LEDs that aren't supposed to give off alot of heat. I have a canopy so I will also need to get a way to house them. Sometimes I feel like I am building a computer lol.
 

qy7400

Member
Location
Long Island
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The Marineland 48in light is only 16 1W LEDs so odds are it's not going to be very strong, IMO more suited for a fresh water tank but could still work for you.

The pre-assembled kit has the LEDs mounted, all you do is attach them to a heat sink and driver; no drilling or soldering and is also missing the drivers, price comes out about the same.
 
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The Marineland 48in light is only 16 1W LEDs so odds are it's not going to be very strong, IMO more suited for a fresh water tank but could still work for you.

The pre-assembled kit has the LEDs mounted, all you do is attach them to a heat sink and driver; no drilling or soldering and is also missing the drivers, price comes out about the same.

Yeah stay away from the marineland light, I've seen it in action and it's not even bright enough to lit up a aFOWLR
 

xxnonamexx

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The pre-assembled kit has the LEDs mounted, all you do is attach them to a heat sink and driver; no drilling or soldering and is also missing the drivers, price comes out about the same.

The description in the retrofit doesn't stated its "preassembled"
I need to attach them to the heat sink so they aren't mounted yet, as well as drill and screw them into the heatsinks. I don't see that in the description.
Do I need the lenses?
 

qy7400

Member
Location
Long Island
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You can skip the focal lenses if you want, since this is for a FO system there's no need. LEDs typically have a 120* spread, covers a greater area but loses its punch deep.

The kits from ReefLED have the 6 LEDs wired (if chose) and mounted to an aluminum channel (from the pics). All you need to do is connect a driver (wire nuts) and attach to a heat sink (can use thermal adhesive). Not 100% as this all all based on description and pictures.
 

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