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- Thread starter newron6
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it not a topic to laugh about
afther reading in u.s e.u.r and israel this my complete plan ,
aquarium- 200 c"m long
70 C"m width
85 c"m high
sump/refugim - i want some sketching a sump with build in refiugm
bubble trapper in sump its important?
my pump will sitting in the water in the sump, and will splitt 4 holes in the back side like cloose loop but npt from the from the bottom
lighting 3x400 watt metal+ 4 t 5 8o watt
2 wavebox tunze that sit in the overflow with 2 holes in the overflow , the overflow location is in all the side of the tank
cooling 1 hp hailea hc100a model
3 jager heating 1 150 2 250 3 300 each watt
about corals because of my budget and experience i deside to go step by step level
1. mushroom chirismes tree ,zetoit , xesania, polypim etc ?
afther sucsses in this level
2. soft etc?
3. brain corals and lps
4. sps ,clams( etc?= what you will add this step)
so what will be the best method ,equipment ,additive , food to keep those corals in step one
each step the same question...
afther reading in u.s e.u.r and israel this my complete plan ,
aquarium- 200 c"m long
70 C"m width
85 c"m high
sump/refugim - i want some sketching a sump with build in refiugm
bubble trapper in sump its important?
my pump will sitting in the water in the sump, and will splitt 4 holes in the back side like cloose loop but npt from the from the bottom
lighting 3x400 watt metal+ 4 t 5 8o watt
2 wavebox tunze that sit in the overflow with 2 holes in the overflow , the overflow location is in all the side of the tank
cooling 1 hp hailea hc100a model
3 jager heating 1 150 2 250 3 300 each watt
about corals because of my budget and experience i deside to go step by step level
1. mushroom chirismes tree ,zetoit , xesania, polypim etc ?
afther sucsses in this level
2. soft etc?
3. brain corals and lps
4. sps ,clams( etc?= what you will add this step)
so what will be the best method ,equipment ,additive , food to keep those corals in step one
each step the same question...
I'll give you my input if you promise to be more friendly and patient.
Your setup sounds fine. 3x400W is good, but 3x250W will do just as well. Your other gear is fine for the corals you intend to keep. I'm not sure if you can tune two waveboxes though ... one might work better/easier. You can consider supplementing the single wavebox with Tunze Streams.
Baffles in your sump will help remove bubbles. I don't have any diagrams, but there are a lot you can find in google (keyword "sump diagram"). I don't like integrating refugiums with sumps. I prefer to keep a separate refugium.
If you start with mushrooms and polyps, be careful because they tend to take over the tank. If you aren't a fan of these corals, just skip this "level" and just start with lps.
Food/additives, I generally only use kalkwasser, two part solutions (B-ionic, C-balance, www.bulkreefsupply.com) or a calcium reactor. Reefnutrition.com has a lot of good foods for corals (and fish). Lots of public aquariums use them.
Your setup sounds fine. 3x400W is good, but 3x250W will do just as well. Your other gear is fine for the corals you intend to keep. I'm not sure if you can tune two waveboxes though ... one might work better/easier. You can consider supplementing the single wavebox with Tunze Streams.
Baffles in your sump will help remove bubbles. I don't have any diagrams, but there are a lot you can find in google (keyword "sump diagram"). I don't like integrating refugiums with sumps. I prefer to keep a separate refugium.
If you start with mushrooms and polyps, be careful because they tend to take over the tank. If you aren't a fan of these corals, just skip this "level" and just start with lps.
Food/additives, I generally only use kalkwasser, two part solutions (B-ionic, C-balance, www.bulkreefsupply.com) or a calcium reactor. Reefnutrition.com has a lot of good foods for corals (and fish). Lots of public aquariums use them.
lps - Euphylia species are hardy and easy to keep, and do well at a variety of light levels.
Best placed in a low flow area.
SPS are not a higher "step", just another option, but more finicky in general, more demanding of light, more money, and harder on the power bill.
After messing with SPS for some time, and finding some success, I found that I liked the LPS much better.
Just saying, don't think that you automatically have to end up with an SPS tank.
You might be better of with a few 250w halides, especially if you're concerned with budget.
Best placed in a low flow area.
SPS are not a higher "step", just another option, but more finicky in general, more demanding of light, more money, and harder on the power bill.
After messing with SPS for some time, and finding some success, I found that I liked the LPS much better.
Just saying, don't think that you automatically have to end up with an SPS tank.
You might be better of with a few 250w halides, especially if you're concerned with budget.
I'd suggest you do some more reading. You're asking some very broad questions, which require very detailed answers, which a lot of people won't have the time to work through. A lot of the info you can find yourself, either on the internet or through reading good books on the subject. There are some suggestions for reading here: http://www.reefs.org/library/reading; and you might also do well to look at the threads at the top of the New Reefkeeper's forum.
Once you've done a bit more reading, you'll be able to ask more specific questions that people will be able to answer more easily.
Once you've done a bit more reading, you'll be able to ask more specific questions that people will be able to answer more easily.
Escaped Ape brings up a good point. I have always found that the internet is an excellent place to ask questions, but it doesn't always provide a 'complete' picture. Books (good ones), in my experience, are a necessary step for most successful people in this hobby. You might consider starting with one like "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Bob Fenner. It's relatively cheap, covers a lot of good information, and doesn't get to the granularity of a text book like some others on the market.
Myself, I would prefer the 3x250 halide setup over the 3x400. Either could work. The former leaves you a little margin of error though. 250's provide plenty of light for just about any coral you would ever see on the market and lessen the risk of burning your inhabitants. Using 400's takes a bit of practice and are best left to more experienced reefers. The increased heat of 400's is another major concern. I see that you are running a chiller. That would help but if it ever quit for any reason, 400's would cook your tank unless your home was kept in the 23*C range. Again, 250's would provide more margin of error in case the chiller ever quit. I've been in the hobby since 1994 or so and have never used 400's. I almost switched to them last year but I'm glad I decided against it. They are simply overkill unless you have a really, really deep tank.
Myself, I would prefer the 3x250 halide setup over the 3x400. Either could work. The former leaves you a little margin of error though. 250's provide plenty of light for just about any coral you would ever see on the market and lessen the risk of burning your inhabitants. Using 400's takes a bit of practice and are best left to more experienced reefers. The increased heat of 400's is another major concern. I see that you are running a chiller. That would help but if it ever quit for any reason, 400's would cook your tank unless your home was kept in the 23*C range. Again, 250's would provide more margin of error in case the chiller ever quit. I've been in the hobby since 1994 or so and have never used 400's. I almost switched to them last year but I'm glad I decided against it. They are simply overkill unless you have a really, really deep tank.
i plan to work with only 2x250 watt mtal what do you think?
and use only close loop with external pump that does 8500 liter for hour
the return pump will give me 10000 liter for hour
is it enough flow in the tank
or i add more 2 sea swirl 1'? what do you think ?
and use only close loop with external pump that does 8500 liter for hour
the return pump will give me 10000 liter for hour
is it enough flow in the tank
or i add more 2 sea swirl 1'? what do you think ?
78"x27"x33"...That is a very large tank for a two-halide setup. I thought you said that 3x400 was an option, no? What is the bracing like? Is there any chance of going with three 250's? It would be a much more even spread.
2245 gph for the closed loop and 2640 gph for the return pump...After your sump, rocks, and sand are accounted for you're looking at a net volume in the 350 gallon (1,300 liter) range. I would *personnally* scale down the return pump to a range of 1000 gph (3,800 lph) and scale up your closed loop. You don't benefit from having huge flows through your sump. Too high of flow can cause microbubble issues too. If you're eventually going towards higher flow corals (many of the *common* acroporas/montiporas/etc) you'll need more flow. I have a tank that is less than half that size and I'm pushing 5,500 gph (21,000 lph) of water. You would be fine for lower/medium flow species at the rates you're proposing. Many of the more common larger polyped corals would do fine. I doubt you'll find enough species to fully stock a tank of this size though. If it were me, I would error on the side of having too much flow. You can always find nooks and crannies for anything that wants less. Higher flow tanks tend to be a little easier to maintain in my experience too. Detritus and food stuffs tend to remain in the water column longer so they have a better chance of being eaten or removed by the filtration. Last, the total gph can be a little misleading when comparing tanks. Two tanks with identical flow rates can have vastly different flow patterns. Seaswirls can be great to ensure that everything gets at least a little bit.
2245 gph for the closed loop and 2640 gph for the return pump...After your sump, rocks, and sand are accounted for you're looking at a net volume in the 350 gallon (1,300 liter) range. I would *personnally* scale down the return pump to a range of 1000 gph (3,800 lph) and scale up your closed loop. You don't benefit from having huge flows through your sump. Too high of flow can cause microbubble issues too. If you're eventually going towards higher flow corals (many of the *common* acroporas/montiporas/etc) you'll need more flow. I have a tank that is less than half that size and I'm pushing 5,500 gph (21,000 lph) of water. You would be fine for lower/medium flow species at the rates you're proposing. Many of the more common larger polyped corals would do fine. I doubt you'll find enough species to fully stock a tank of this size though. If it were me, I would error on the side of having too much flow. You can always find nooks and crannies for anything that wants less. Higher flow tanks tend to be a little easier to maintain in my experience too. Detritus and food stuffs tend to remain in the water column longer so they have a better chance of being eaten or removed by the filtration. Last, the total gph can be a little misleading when comparing tanks. Two tanks with identical flow rates can have vastly different flow patterns. Seaswirls can be great to ensure that everything gets at least a little bit.
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