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bleedingthought

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Describe how you have your top-off setup. Automated, semi-automated, or manual - share it with us! :D

Also, tell us what measures you have taken to prevent possible disasters! 8O
 

Len

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My top-off is semi-automated. I use a LiterMeter III that draws water from a 10 gallon reservoir which I have to manually fill with freshwater. 10 gallons is a good amount for my tank. It accommodates about a week's worth of evaporation, but it's small enough that if my LM3 should go crazy and pump all the water out, it won't be a disaster. I could run an RO line to the reservoir and make the top-off fully automatic, but it would be a very long line, and it increases the chance of problems. The LM3 feeds my sump directly; It used to feed a kalkreactor but I have discontinued using kalkreactors since I got a bigger ca reactor and started using Bionic again.
 

LA-Lawman

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Len":17b02rg1 said:
My top-off is semi-automated. I use a LiterMeter III that draws water from a 10 gallon reservoir which I have to manually fill with freshwater. 10 gallons is a good amount for my tank. It accommodates about a week's worth of evaporation, but it's small enough that if my LM3 should go crazy and pump all the water out, it won't be a disaster. I could run an RO line to the reservoir and make the top-off fully automatic, but it would be a very long line, and it increases the chance of problems. The LM3 feeds my sump directly; It used to feed a kalkreactor but I have discontinued using kalkreactors since I got a bigger ca reactor and started using Bionic again.

what fishtank? :)
 
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Anonymous

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I have a LM3 as well. I like that day in and day out I can pump in the exact same amount of kalkwasser. The downside is that it needs to be adjusted when weather changes. It is tremendously easy to adjust with the LM3, but I actually prefer to dose the same amount of kalk and simply make up the small difference manually with plain old RO/DI.
 

trido

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I use a dual float switch from ATO, tied to a maxijet 600. It feeds into my kalk reactor and the drip rate is controlled with a plastic airline adjustor. The secondary float switch will turn it off after two gallons if the primary sticks. MY skimmer float valve stops filling the bin after about two gallons if the skimmer goes nuts as well. I have found that a two gallon dose of kalk mix in my 165G system has had no adverse affects the previous times I had issues.

Four gallons of kalk slurry ( if you remember the thread), is another story.
 

stubbsz

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Tunze Osmolator. Comes with two sensors. One to operate and one with an alarm. I use it with the Calcium dispenser; also tunze. Add one rubbermaid bucket and bobs your uncle.

-Adrian
Gerald is actually my uncle but that's not important.
 

ChrisRD

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I use a LiterMeter drawing from a remote 32 gallon reservoir in the basement. I refill the reservoir with RO/DI and mix in fresh kalk every couple of weeks.
 
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Anonymous

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Dual ATO float switch in the sump that runs a small powerhead in a 10 gallon trash can of RODI. The powerhead feeds a DIY kalk reactor. The trash can has a float valve connected to the RODI unit. I haven't had to adjust this set up in over 3 years, though I do soak the float switches in vinegar once or twice a year to prevent fouling. I love that this system doesn't have to be mucked with as the weather changes.
 
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Anonymous

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Thales":7bc7m91x said:
Dual ATO float switch in the sump that runs a small powerhead in a 10 gallon trash can of RODI. The powerhead feeds a DIY kalk reactor. The trash can has a float valve connected to the RODI unit. I haven't had to adjust this set up in over 3 years, though I do soak the float switches in vinegar once or twice a year to prevent fouling. I love that this system doesn't have to be mucked with as the weather changes.

Does this mean that you're topping off with different amounts of kalk throughout the year?
 
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Anonymous

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Prolly Matt. However, I generally forget to add kalk to the reactor, and have a ca reactor as well, so I don' think its all that important. :D
 
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Anonymous

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What about membrane creep on the RO/DI side? Is the valve letting in a little water at a time?
 
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Anonymous

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The RODI is servicing two systems with pretty good evaporation, so its moving quite a bit. I do have drawings for submerged float valve chamber, but I didn't get around to building it. Also, our water is really good, like 30-35 ppm, so I will prolly be removing the RO membrane completely and replacing it with another DI chamber.
 
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Anonymous

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Thales":1mcsadue said:
The RODI is servicing two systems with pretty good evaporation, so its moving quite a bit. I do have drawings for submerged float valve chamber, but I didn't get around to building it. Also, our water is really good, like 30-35 ppm, so I will prolly be removing the RO membrane completely and replacing it with another DI chamber.

Ah, lucky you! I've always wanted to set up a sprinkler valve in between the RO/DI and float valve of the topoff reservoir. Have it come on 2 hours a day or so. It would eliminate membrane creep and still avoid having to fill up the reservoir manually.
 

ufotofu

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I've been looking at sprinkler valves for that exact setup. but I think I'll hold off for the next (much, much larger) tank for that.

Right now, I'm using a 5 gallon Kent Aqua Dose gravity feed to replace with RO/DI water. The drip rate is just about right for my 50gal with 20gal sump. I just drip right into the return pump area. Low tech and it works great.
 

pcardone

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I have a float switch that I removed from a sump pump. Looks like a toilet balcock, mounted in my sump. I had to add a square relay to reverse the switch flow"down instead of up". Hooked to one of my old mag drives in a 12 gallon res. that I fill manually with kalk ro\di or whatever.
 
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Anonymous

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Matt_Wandell":2lm94llf said:
Thales":2lm94llf said:
The RODI is servicing two systems with pretty good evaporation, so its moving quite a bit. I do have drawings for submerged float valve chamber, but I didn't get around to building it. Also, our water is really good, like 30-35 ppm, so I will prolly be removing the RO membrane completely and replacing it with another DI chamber.

Ah, lucky you! I've always wanted to set up a sprinkler valve in between the RO/DI and float valve of the topoff reservoir. Have it come on 2 hours a day or so. It would eliminate membrane creep and still avoid having to fill up the reservoir manually.

:D
For my system that would actually be really easy as the RODI is fed via a garden hose. I could get a simple sprinkler timer and add it to the hose at the tap.
 

trido

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Matt Wandell":2upgscio said:
It would eliminate membrane creep and still avoid having to fill up the reservoir manually.
Can you elaborate on this please?

Thales":2upgscio said:
Also, our water is really good, like 30-35 ppm, so I will prolly be removing the RO membrane completely and replacing it with another DI chamber
My water is in this range as well. Would you still run carbon? Maybe youd better send a PM regarding this as to not advocate some sort of ROless top off water craze. :lol:
 

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