Top-off opinions

[mutley29]

I Have the Ultra-life float switch for my auto top-off, it's been working fine up until 5 days after i went on a 3 week vacation then it went tits up and pumped 30 gal of RO/DI water into my tank, flooded my sump and knackered the basement carpet which is still wet.

The Ultra-life is under a year old and having looked at the float switch it seems the sensor isn't switching the the pump off when the water level tops out

So i'm looking for a new top off system and wanted to hear what others had to say on Reef-Relief Auto Top Off Controller and the Reef Fanatic Level Controller w/2 Float Switches, or any other type of top-off

i am limited by the fact my RO/DI storage is in on the same floor but at the other end of the house in a 50 gal trashcan

thanx for any help

Anton

 

[Anonymous]

I have used a float valve for a couple of years with out any problems. Around 6 bux from us plastics.

 

[Anonymous]

I've got a litermeter. Well worth the money IMO. I set it a little under what I need for the day. (I had it on a 15 gallon) That way, if it was humid and the tank didn't evaporate too much, it was still on. Worse case scenerio was me adding a cup of ro water by hand if needed.

Now I just need to remember to fill the topoff container!

B

 

[danmhippo]

I have litermeter too with the level sensor. The level sensor is using air pressure, so there are no mechanical moving parts that I need to worry about. Besides, with litermeter, you can set the upper limit of how much water you want to pump into the tank per day. With the controlled top-off, I have not had flooding for years.

 

[ChrisRD]

Another option is to plug the top-off pump into a digital appliance timer. They're generally programmable down to the minute with several on/off events per day (if you prefer to top-off at certain times, or in several small increments throughout the day, etc.). Sortof a poor man's dosing pump...

Even if you're already using a float switch, the timer could be used in combination with it for safety or to control at what specific times dosing can happen. You can set the timer to allow the pump to supply just a little bit more than normal evaporation needs and if the float switch fails - no disaster - just a little extra top-off that day...

 

[Anonymous]

I'm using the Tunze top-off system, which if bought with their Calcium dispenser, handily becomes a kalk dispenser as well. The only problem from your point of view might be the distance, as the pump is pretty puny. If you were able to put a 30 litre reservoir somewhere near the tank, I think they're an excellent option. Very accurate.

 

[Anonymous]

After having 3 near-serious RO flooding problems (and royally pissing off the last girlfriend) I have taken the approach that I will never again operate an RO so that there isn't a sink or tub under any likely trouble spots.

Auto-shutoff systems are likely trouble spots. - Anything down-stream of them should be protected with a plumbed drain for when (not if, WHEN) they fail.

 

[Entacmaea]

If you want the most failure-point free system possible, go with a gravity fed system, which is controlled via the level of your sump (letting in air). It is essentially the NURCE type system. This requires the water level of the top-off to be above the sump water level. This is really the easiest, most stable, most reliable form of top-off IMO. You don't have to worry about switches failing, timing, it automatically keeps pace with your evaporation, and it is a thousand time cheaper than a dosing meter, or switches...

 

[Mihai]

If you want the most failure-point free system possible, go with a gravity fed system, which is controlled via the level of your sump (letting in air). It is essentially the NURCE type system. This requires the water level of the top-off to be above the sump water level. This is really the easiest, most stable, most reliable form of top-off IMO. You don't have to worry about switches failing, timing, it automatically keeps pace with your evaporation, and it is a thousand time cheaper than a dosing meter, or switches...

Except if it looses the seal, and then you'll end up with 30 gal of RO water in the tank.

M.

 

[reefmongrel]

I have had good results w the Reef Fanatic Level Controller w Dual Float Sensors from ReefGeek. The second sensor picks up the rising water level and shuts the pump down if it trys to exceed your pre-set limit.

I have the external pump in a 18g Rubbermaid container with a heater to keep the top-off at display temp. Tubing runs to sump for the top-off. I add R/O water to the container periodically but w 18g capacity, it is never a problem maintaining evaporation losses over a period of time. In fact I really don't keep 18 g in it, but I like the capacity.

Reefmongrel

 

[coastal]

What works for me is a 55 gallon drum gravity fed to a kent float valve 8 years and still effective

 

[Entacmaea]

Except if it looses the seal, and then you'll end up with 30 gal of RO water in the tank.

M.

Build it and test it to make sure it is sealed. Once. Risk overted :roll:

 

[mutley29]

Thanks for all the info peeps

the NURCE type that Entacmaea suggested sounds excellent, unfortunately i would have to do a fair bit of remodelling to get it up and running with the way things are in with my present set-up, i have been informed by my now wife, (got married at Xmas) that when we move house in 4 years time (she's got it all planned) we will take a large system into account when looking at prospective houses (i'm deeply suspicious).

I'll keep it in mind for then, at the moment i think i'll go with the Reef Fanatic one as i have some of their equip already and it's performed flawlessly to date (i know theres a first time for everything).

I am looking at placing everything in a large drip tray and plumbing it either outside or to a drain so that i don't keep ruining carpet, with the water i've spilt on it i could probably do a complete water change on my tank

Thanks again for all the input

Anton

 

[coastal]

hasent lost it in all these years . the water level in the sump rises to the float and squezes against the seal

 

[ChrisRD]

Congratulations Mutley.

 

[Mihai]

Except if it looses the seal, and then you'll end up with 30 gal of RO water in the tank.

M.

Build it and test it to make sure it is sealed. Once. Risk overted :roll:

Unfortunately you have to break the seal everytime you fill it up, so you have to check it everytime :-(

M.

 

[mutley29]

Thanks Chris

Hopefully i'll meet you at the meeting on 26th feb if your going and if i'm not working.

Thanks again

Anton

 

[ChrisRD]

Yeah, I'm hoping to make this one...

 

[Entacmaea]

Unfortunately you have to break the seal everytime you fill it up, so you have to check it everytime :-(

M.

If you use a high quality 1/4 inch ball valve, you just open it up to fill, and shut it to operate. Flawless! I am using a 15 gallon high glass aquarium with an acrylic lid, drilled for the various bulkheads and ball valve. As RonCo says, it's "set it and forget it!" :lol:

 

[Mihai]

Unfortunately you have to break the seal everytime you fill it up, so you have to check it everytime :-(

M.

If you use a high quality 1/4 inch ball valve, you just open it up to fill, and shut it to operate. Flawless! I am using a 15 gallon high glass aquarium with an acrylic lid, drilled for the various bulkheads and ball valve. As RonCo says, it's "set it and forget it!" :lol:

Hmmm.... you make me rethink my planned top-off. I was thinking about
the top-off on RC (I know, shoot me ) that has the added advantage
that it does not short cycle the RO unit:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthrea ... genumber=1

However, I can imagine a system with a valve controlled by a timer
that daily refills the top-off container (set such the time while it's
ON is slightly larger than the time it takes to fill the container).
Then the RO will only make water once a day then the refill container
would continuously drip it through a Nurce system...

Two switches (one above the Nurce level and one below) will provide redundancy: if the valve gets stuck "off" the water level will decrease until the lower switch will kick in preventing running the pump dry, the upper switch will prevent too much fresh water entering the system if the Nurce breaks the seal...

I'll let you know how it works.
Mihai