Filter Change Time?

[CC-Star]

Does anyone have any good input on when a Eheim External Filter (Canister) 2215/2217 should be cleaned/changed such as substrate, pads, carbon etc?? I asked the LFS but I don't trust them bc they will tell you anything to get money out of you...once a week/month..psft..ehhehe So input would be great as I do want to keep a healthy tank. So far I have not changed it for almost 10 months and all is clear, levels look fine....

Only problem we have noticed is every say 20mins or 1/2 hr it will let some bubbles out into the fish tank....hence why we are thinking its time for a change perhaps bc of debris/cr@p filling up the substrate/pads/etc...

 

[WannaBeReefer]

I had the same filter for my freshwater system, I used to change it every 60 days. Once a month would not be bad in a saltwater tank. Remember, all the crap in that filter decomposes and adds to the extra nutients in the system if you leave it in there to long. You run the risk of nusiance algea/cyno etc. blooms when you wait to long.

 

[CC-Star]

Substrate costs 52 bucks CAN...every two months that gets a tad bit pricey...and that is not incl. pads (15), carbon filters ($20) etc... Is there any other way? I have heard of Live Rock....
I dunno we have not done it for a year due to $...and well it has been so clean it looks like it still is doing its job (which is koo)...but w. the odd spurts of bubbles makes me think that debris is clogging the substrate....every 60 days yikesssssss...$$$$

 

[SnowManSnow]

I'd say that your carbon is worn out after 10 months. If you are running a good skimmer and have LR you may not even need the can filter.

In my FW tank I try to change activated ordinances at least every few months.

B.

 

[CC-Star]

Can we replace the substrate w. live rock? Is that any better?

So really in essance just changing the carbon filter, and cleaning hte pads should help??

Ya i agree in FW it was really different (dirty/needed change waaaaay more often) in my salt water w. the live rock it keeps so clear, can not see it needing lots of change...

My main goal is keeping water chem alright, fish/invert/LR healthy...and getting rid of those silly bubbles.

 

[Rikko]

The carbon in a filter really doesn't last all that long. Once it's adsorbed "crap" to saturation the only thing it's really doing is letting bacteria colonize it and potentially leech the stuff back out. I've heard chemists say that low grade carbon is pretty much saturated after 15 minutes in your tank. Some higher quality ones last weeks or months, but you never really know when it's used up anyways.
I really only use carbon when something in my tank looks a bit upset, and that's next to never.

As for the pads - do clean them regularly. If you're running a Berlin style tank (ie. protein skimming + letting the live rock handle most/all of the actual bacterial filtration), then you don't even want the canister filter to be cycled. Cleaning it often will discourage large bacteria colonies. I tend to keep using sponge/mechanical media in my canisters until they start to fall apart. My Fluval foams must be getting near 3 years old and they're still doing the job.

I'm not sure what you mean about replacing substrate with live rock.. Is that another media type that goes inside the canister? Or are we really talking about the actual tank substrate?

Where abouts in Canada are you located? If you're on the West Coast I can name a few good stores you could check out, or if you're back East you might want to hit up www.aquariumpros.ca for some shop recommendations. LFS make most of their money on supplies so I'm not terribly surprised that they want you to keep buying media crap all the time, but better you find a shop where they don't push you to buying one of the most expensive filters in a tank system where they aren't even that necessary.

 

[SnowManSnow]

Hi,
What type of substrate do you have right now? Most people run an argonite sandbed with the addition of live rock. Some people run live sand, and still others have a BB (bare bottom) tank... I can't get use to the look myself.. In my opinion LR is a very important addition to the SW aquarium, especially if you plan on branching out into corals at some point. LR not only provides shelter for your inhabitants, but also provides good bio-filtration once the rock is cured.

In my 37 gallon reef-in-progress tank I have the following as far as substrate and LR goes. For the bottom I have this - http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/pro ... ry_id=2409 (Argamax Sand). I also have about 30lbs of Fuji LR.

I also invested in a good skimmer... which helps enormously! I bought an AquaC Remora skimmer with the Maxi Jet 1200 pump...works great. You can check this out here... www.proteinskimmer.com I purchased it from www.marinedepot.com

And thats all I have for filtration on my tank. Most reefers run a similar setup... LR and Sand Substrate. IMO you can probably get rid of the external filter once you have a decent skimmer, and substrate / LR set-up.

Hope this helps.
B.

 

[Anonymous]

I used to run a tetratek HOB in my 55g. And I rinsed the 1/2 the filter pads each week. I am now using a DIY filter box in my external sup refug. It plugs up in a week or so. So I rinse out the media (lava rocks and crushed oyster shells) every week. Perhaps the larger filter you are using could last longer. But my gut feel is frequent cleaning is necessary. At least the pads anyway.

I also have a refugium with lotsa thriving plant life. So when I change media, the plant life can take up the slack until aerobic bacteria is reestablished. But in a system where most of the aerobic bacteria is in the filter media and there is limited plant life, 100% filter changes can be very detrimental.

Also my media cost $5 for 50 pounds. And it lasts for many many months. So the cost of changing out your media would be a much greater consideration than in my system.

 

[CC-Star]

Hey Mr.SnowManSnow I have LR and sand in my tank. I only have a Red Sea Prizim Protein Skimmer it does the trick I suppose (up to 100gal/400L) I would like to get a better one some day but perhaps when I start getting into corals etc....

As for this silly filter. I want to have a better set-up someday(such as a refrig) but that is when I really start getting into it and upgrade my tank/equipment, and getting corals.

But anyhow as for the moment the filter I have is that Ehiem Canister Filter 2215/2217....I suppose after reading it makes sense to clean the pads more often, and perhaps rinse out hte substrate as that must be causing the air bubbles (clogs). As for not needing once due to having PS, LR and sand I can see why bc if it is getting dirty/clogged anyhow the tank does not show it in the least.

As for bacteria ya I see what you are saying.

Filter
The Eheim 2217 Canister Filter has a compact pump coupled with a large volume canister for filter media. The filter is for aquariums up to 159 gallons with a maximum pump performance of 264 gph and delivery head of 7 foot and 6 inches. It is extremely quiet, durable and long lasting. It provides high pump output and effective use of filter media for fresh or saltwater aquariums.

The "Full Space" design of Eheim's canister allows it to large amounts of filter media while making it more versatile. The filter comes complete with a safety hose-connection system to stop separation, all the filter medias needed to set up the filter, intake and outtake tubes, and double isolating valves. The Eheim 2217 is UL and CSA listed.
EHFIMECH should be used at the bottom suction area. It provides mechanical filtration. Next is a Coarse Filter Pad. The next layer of EHFISUBSTRAT will act as the main biological filter medium. The substrate's high porousity is ideal for bacteria colonization and ensures unbeatable long term decomposition of Ammonia and Nitrites. Next is a Fine Filter Pad and a carbon pad. Chemi-pure can be used as a replacement for the Carbon Pad for chemical filtration (10oz per 50 gallons) for freshwater aquariums. Depending upon the desired water quality, the layers of filter media can be increased. Specific water treatment can also be achieved with an individual filter media arrangement

As for all the stuff that is in the filter:
Substrate: Specially designed sintered glass contains an enormous surface area for bacteria colonization. This superior biological media eliminated toxic ammonias, nitrites, and promotes highly active biological water purification. EhfiSubstrat can be rinsed and reused. Place in a filter bag for easy maintenance.

Instructions:
When changing the filter media, mix about one third of the used medium with new media to achieve rapid repopulation of bacteria. Ehfisubstrat may be washed with lukewarm water and be used several times

Coarse Filter Media:
Specially designed sintered glass contains an enormous surface area for bacteria colonization. This superior biological media eliminated toxic ammonias, nitrites, and promotes highly active biological water purification. EhfiSubstrat can be rinsed and reused. Place in a filter bag for easy maintenance.

Instructions:
When changing the filter media, mix about one third of the used medium with new media to achieve rapid repopulation of bacteria. Ehfisubstrat may be washed with lukewarm water and be used several times

White Filter Pads

Blue Filter Pads
EHEIM filter pads are used to separate the different filter media layers in standard filters. The coarse filter pad is layered between two types of biological media to help remove particulate matter. Over time the filter pad will not only act as mechanical filtration but also as biological filtration.

Carbon Filter Pads


So with all this info...and ppl suggesting since i have a PS, LR and sand that I probably do not even need this ...that I probably do not have to change as frequently. Cleaning the pads makes sense, maybe replacing the carbon filter(or ditching it as per Rikko suggests bc its useless anyhow-btw I live in Ontario, CAN) and the filter media or something once a year could be a good idea. But same time as some ppl have stated and reading this info that I found rinising the pads could harm the filtration..."Over time the filter pad will not only act as mechanical filtration but also as biological filtration" ..how much time..then does it stop working? SHould it be rinsed....aaggghhh

 

[CC-Star]

Actually to answer my own question i went on the Eheim sitehttp://www.eheim.com/ and they suggested re: Carbon Filters

"We recommend that carbon be used for short-term only and for a specific purpose, after the initial aquarium set-up or to remove medications or additives, turbidity, water discoloration and odor."

And they have some suggestions as to when to clean their filter media....hmmmm...cant wait to change over to a refrig.....sounds like they are less maintence..

 

[SnowManSnow]

you mean a refugium?

have a great day!

B.

 

[CC-Star]

Ya that is what i mean...some day perhaps when I get into corals..

Thanks, u 2!

CC

 

[Anonymous]

Actually to answer my own question i went on the Eheim site

I know I know. sometimes i read the instructions also.

...

And they have some suggestions as to when to clean their filter media....hmmmm...cant wait to change over to a refrig.....sounds like they are less maintence..

I totally agree. Especially with an intank refugium. Some of the logic of operating a refugium is counter intuitive to people used to filter operations. At least it was to me when I first started a 'planted" FW. For instance, a heavier bioload results in more biofiltering of toxins and heavy metals. So more fish (within limits of course) means higher quality tank water. In that first system for instance I had descendants from the original two fish 8 years later. With no other filtration, no circulation, and just replacing evaporative water with tap water.

But bottom line I would rather harvest an handfull of macros each week the do all the maintenance of skimmers/filters and the like.

 

[Anonymous]

Does anyone have any good imput as per when a Eheim External Filter (Canister) 2215/2217 should be cleaned/changed such as substrate, pads, carbon etc?? I asked the LFS but I don't trust them bc they will tell you anything to get money out of you...once a week/month..psft..ehhehe So input would be great as I do want to keep a healthy tank. So far I have not changed it for almost 10 months and all is clear, levels look fine....

Only problem we have noticed is every say 20mins or 1/2 hr it will let some bubbles out into the fish tank....hence why we are thinking its time for a change perhaps bc of debris/cr@p filling up the substrate/pads/etc...

Are you running a reeftank? Why are you running the media in the canister?

 

[Fatal Morgana]

>...For instance, a heavier bioload results in more biofiltering of toxins and heavy metals. So more fish (within limits of course) means higher quality tank water.

The more trash we generate, the more polluted our environment will be, and more money will be spent by the government, and the clear the air and water will be...

 

[Anonymous]

>...For instance, a heavier bioload results in more biofiltering of toxins and heavy metals. So more fish (within limits of course) means higher quality tank water.

The more trash we generate, the more polluted our environment will be, and more money will be spent by the government, and the clear the air and water will be...

Perfect

 

[blastermqn]

Good response Fatal.

May I ask why we're are running an external cannister filter in the first place and what we are trying to fix?

A few years ago I built my own filter. Used one of those typical under the sink kind that take the long, cylinder, string wound filters that cost a couple of bucks at the local Home Depot. Powered it with a 1000gph external pump.

Worked great - for about a week. The filter on those things is so efficient it cut water flow in half in about a week, and required changing every two. If that thing clogged up in two weeks, it only proved to me that running any kind of substrate or filter in a cannister filter is pointless unless you change it with the same frequency. Leaving the filter medium in there for months actually encourages trapped deitrus to decay faster because all you've done id move it from the tank to the filter, and nitrate producing bacteria will thank you for providing an oxygen rich water flow.

I'm not against running some kind of 24/7 mechanical filtration, and periodic A/C treatment is never a bad thing, but your typical canister filter functions as nothing more than just another nitrate factory and does little mechanical filtration after a few weeks of new filter media. You also can't just let them sit for a weeks and run them because the bio waste they collect begins to break down and when you turn it on it pumps toxins back into the tank. Personally I prefer to just stick a big aqua clear 500 back filter on my tanks, use it for water circualtion which is great because it's top/down, and periodically stick a filter cartridge in it for a few days. Seems to work better and is less hassle than cannisters.

Mag 350 owners can try stuffing the thing full of floss for a cheap and yet effective filter medium. Works great, especially when you can pick up bags of plyester filter medium at art malls for a fraction the cost of a pet store.