How big for quarantine tank?
- Thread starter Manta1
- Start date
I'm a bit confused by the way you worded your post...is the 15 the quarantine tank or the 45?
Quarantine is not synonymous with "hospital" tank, although they CAN be the same tank if you wish.
The best quarantine tanks are tanks that are set up just like a reef, and left running all the time. For a while I was using a 7 gallon with live rock, live sand and even a few corals for smaller fish such as dottybacks and such. This way the fish acclimates in the best environment possible. (not that the corals have anything to do with this) If I were to medicate, I'd need to set up a temporary tank with just a spong filter and a heater. Some people quarantine this way too, though I don't recommend it. For large fish, obviously larger tanks become necessary.
I use the method I do because with careful selection, medication is hardly ever necessary. In fact I haven't had to medicate a fish in quite a few years.
Jim
Quarantine is not synonymous with "hospital" tank, although they CAN be the same tank if you wish.
The best quarantine tanks are tanks that are set up just like a reef, and left running all the time. For a while I was using a 7 gallon with live rock, live sand and even a few corals for smaller fish such as dottybacks and such. This way the fish acclimates in the best environment possible. (not that the corals have anything to do with this) If I were to medicate, I'd need to set up a temporary tank with just a spong filter and a heater. Some people quarantine this way too, though I don't recommend it. For large fish, obviously larger tanks become necessary.
I use the method I do because with careful selection, medication is hardly ever necessary. In fact I haven't had to medicate a fish in quite a few years.
Jim
Sorry Jim
Planning a 5x2x2 reef, 45gal is our old (empty) reef tank that we were going to sell and then buy 15gallon to use as quarantine/treatment tank.
Having second thoughts as 45gal cost $700 and we'd prob get $150 for it 2nd hand
.
Interesting that you don't advise tank to be used in both roles. We'll need to give this some thought.
Thanx
Planning a 5x2x2 reef, 45gal is our old (empty) reef tank that we were going to sell and then buy 15gallon to use as quarantine/treatment tank.
Having second thoughts as 45gal cost $700 and we'd prob get $150 for it 2nd hand
.Interesting that you don't advise tank to be used in both roles. We'll need to give this some thought.
Thanx
It's not BAD to use the tank as both, many people do it. Many people also use bare bones tanks for this. I just don't recommend it because the fish will be less stressed in a fully set up tank, and therefore have a better immune respose. It can be very simple. A few pieces of live rock, and a small amount of sand to get rid of the reflective bottom. A small power head and a heater - simple.
Jim
Jim
Depends on what you are medicating with. CopperSafe, for instance, is very cheap, and medicating a 45 gallon would be less than a few bucks. I got rid of ICH on two fish using it.
As for hospital/quarantine tank, the best idea I've come accross for a hospital tank is to make the tank as small as possible for the fish. If you're only going to have the fish in the hospital tank for a week to a month, it can be pretty small and the fish will be ok, if you're only putting one or two in the tank.
When you need a hospital tank, you can buy one or have it on hand. For example, for 30 bucks you can get a cheap 7 gallon acrylic gallon tank at Walmart with a light a lid and a filter. It'll work with most smaller fish. Fill it up with water from your main tank. Add two or three pieces of live rock from your main tank. You don't need to use sand or substrate. Pop the fish in and medicate. Monitor ammonia every other day or every third day and if you see it move up, just water swap (don't forget to add meds to water).
At the end of the medication period, you can water swap to get rid of the extra meds, and then pull the fish out to put back in the main tank.
Alernatively, you can keep a small backpack filter with ceramic material in it on your main tank, and then just put that on the Hosp tank when you need to use it.
As for getting rid of ich, I'd suggest two tanks. Put all fish in the first tank, which has no substrate, and hit them with coppersafe. Tank 1 can be just a tank with saltwater in it. In 8 days the fish are free of parasites (change water before day 8, if needed). On day 8, swap out 50% of the water twice per day for three days to get rid of as much of the copper as possible. Then take them out and put them in tank 2. Tank two can be just like the tank I discussed above, and can even be a small funcitoning tank with critters and all. Leave the main tank empty of fish for at least 3 weeks if any ICH infested fish were in that main tank, and 30 days to be 100% sure. Then put the fish back in. ICH gone. Guarenteed.
As for hospital/quarantine tank, the best idea I've come accross for a hospital tank is to make the tank as small as possible for the fish. If you're only going to have the fish in the hospital tank for a week to a month, it can be pretty small and the fish will be ok, if you're only putting one or two in the tank.
When you need a hospital tank, you can buy one or have it on hand. For example, for 30 bucks you can get a cheap 7 gallon acrylic gallon tank at Walmart with a light a lid and a filter. It'll work with most smaller fish. Fill it up with water from your main tank. Add two or three pieces of live rock from your main tank. You don't need to use sand or substrate. Pop the fish in and medicate. Monitor ammonia every other day or every third day and if you see it move up, just water swap (don't forget to add meds to water).
At the end of the medication period, you can water swap to get rid of the extra meds, and then pull the fish out to put back in the main tank.
Alernatively, you can keep a small backpack filter with ceramic material in it on your main tank, and then just put that on the Hosp tank when you need to use it.
As for getting rid of ich, I'd suggest two tanks. Put all fish in the first tank, which has no substrate, and hit them with coppersafe. Tank 1 can be just a tank with saltwater in it. In 8 days the fish are free of parasites (change water before day 8, if needed). On day 8, swap out 50% of the water twice per day for three days to get rid of as much of the copper as possible. Then take them out and put them in tank 2. Tank two can be just like the tank I discussed above, and can even be a small funcitoning tank with critters and all. Leave the main tank empty of fish for at least 3 weeks if any ICH infested fish were in that main tank, and 30 days to be 100% sure. Then put the fish back in. ICH gone. Guarenteed.
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