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Well, I just noticed that my blue tang is covered in spots, my kole is well on the way to being covered and my naso has a few. This really rots! Anyway, here's my plan what do you think?

I have a 20 gal that we're going to return(never been used) and get a 30 gal for a QT. Will that be big enough. The Naso is about 2", blue is 1-1.5" and Kole is 1.5-2". Also have a Goby that's about 4". We have a heater, thermometer and sponge filter for the QT. Going to put some PVC in there too. We don't really have time to cycle new water since they are sick now. Would it be ok to use water from the original tank? I know the "ich" would be in there but won't the meds or hyposalinity that we use to take care if the ich on the fish also take care of it in the water? Anyway, I want to take all the fish out and leave it fallow for the correct amt of time. We still would have LR, coral and inverts in the tank. Can the ich still survive on the inverts, etc after that amt of time, or does it need an actual fish to survive.

I think that's it for now. Does this sound like it would work? Any other tips or corrections I would need to make? I'm just so upset that the fish are sick and want to kick this once and for all!

Thanks!
 

wombat1

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I'm not sure if 30 gallons is large enough. You should definitely keep them separate from each other in any case, with dividers or something. Has the sponge filter cycled, or is it brand new? You will need to keep an eye on ammonia and nitrite levels, and do water changes when necessary. DON'T take water from your main tank to do water changes! Just mix up some new water and let it circulate for a day or so.

Ich needs a fish to survive, and if all the fish are taken out it will eventually die. The amount of time it takes depends on many factors. Try searching this site with the keyword "ich" and you will find lots of info.
 
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I won't use water from the tank for water changes, but can I use the initial water for the QT from the tank and then kill the ich in it when I kill it on the fish as well? The spnge filter is new.

Thanks
 

grav

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Phishy,

Since it sounds like the ick is advanced, right away, get that sponge into your main tank to seed it. A clean new sponge will provide no bio filtration at all... which is the primary purpose.

I'd suggest one of the ick treatments the first day or two to help out your fish right away, and then go with Hyposalinity in the long run. Especally since you plan to "cure" the tank, you have time to go that way.
 

john f

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The hyposalinity will help the fish right away. The energy expended for osmoregulation can be diverted to fighting the disease. DOn't delay on the hypo, and I would recommend using no other Ich remedy, especially freash water baths ( these usually kill really sick fish, and don't do much for Ich anyhow)

Watch the Ph closely under Hypo ( it drops) and add some buffer daily if need be. Use Am-Quell daily for the ammonia buildup, and water changes for the nitrites. Don't worry about nitrites too much anyhow, they have to be REALLY high in saltwater to hurt the fish.

The biggest thing is to seperate the tangs with dividers if possible.........they don't need the added stress of territorial battles right now.


Good luck,

John
 
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Well, we lost the Kole Tang sometime in the night. How can I be sure that this is Ick and not Oodinium? It does look like salt, but they're completely covered! Also, if I put the sponge filter in the main tank, then will the ick or whatever this is die off from it when I put it in the QT?

Thanks for all the help.
 

john f

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Oodinium kills fish fast. Like 3 days tops. If they have been infected for longer than that, it's probably Cryptocaryon.

As for the sponge filter, the Ich will die of once it is in your QT.



John
 
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They all had a few spots about a week ago then it went away. Now it's back in full force. I noticed them really bad yesterday morning and this morning the Kole was dead. Now one of them has a cloudy eye. Anyway, hopefully we can get rid of this! Then I will quarantine all new arrivals!
 
A

Anonymous

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Don't worry about nitrites too much anyhow, they have to be REALLY high in saltwater to hurt the fish.

Nitrites are incredibly toxic to fish and inverts even at very low levels. Ammonia is more toxic to fish than nitrite, but nitrite is still very toxic. Strangely enough nitrite is more toxic than ammonia to some invertebrates, cephalopods for instance. You might be thinking of nitrate, which does have to be fairly high for fish to show signs of stress. It's best to keep all at as low a level as possible in any case when dealing with already stressed fish.

Read this:
http://reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=38207&start=0

This deals with the treatment of the parasite Cryptocaryon. The parasite Amyloodinium looks very similar from gross inspection of the fish, but requires a bit different treatment. I don't know which parasite you have.
 

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