80 % of hobbyists that give up out of frustration, do so because of nuisance algae. Sad, really because while it's aesthetically unpleasant, it's not generally cause for any health concerns with the tank.
You got some good advice regarding how to manage the bloom, you CAN get though this if you fix the cause of the problem.
FYI, Phosguard (Seachem) and Phosban (Two Little Fishes) are not chemical additives, they are absorbants - they do not add anything to the water they simply remove phosphates by absorbtion. There is a distinct difference between this and adding chemicals that change the ionic balance of a tank.
Manny, sounds like your SOURCE of fish is a big problem. Clowns don't get ich too often, but they do get Brooklynella - so do Royal Grammas, esp. out of Haiti, where many (most?) Royal Grammas come from. Summer is worst for Brook in Haitian fish. I have seen the (very) occasional tang die of fright, but they are few and far between. Sounds to me like poor handling practices by the shipper. If you need help finding a good LFS in the Miami area, I can ask one of my contacts who covers that area, I'm sure he can recommend some. If "price" is an issue (LFS vs MO), well there's no fish more expensive than a dead one, especially if he takes others with him.
Plenty of people routinely use a FW dip prophylactically. I don't, but I do use FW dips often for flukes (trematodes) and I've never lost a fish to a dip. I have had some die during the course of treatment, but I'd submit that they would have died of their affliction anyway. Did no harm.
Manny I think your problem sounds like it doesn't being with your husbandry practices, but rather with your sources. That problem is easily surmountable.
NMReefer, manual export of the existing algae, by scrubbing down the rocks is probably a good place to begin. I maintain about 20 tanks for clients, plus my own shop, and I've run as many as 7 tanks in my home (I'm a sick puppy). Many (most? but not all) tanks go through varying degrees of algae issues. As each tank matures and balances, algae issues become less and less. I've gone to hell and back with a couple of tanks before they turned the corner - many now require just simple water changes and periodic testing anymore, they otherwise look after themselves.
To remove the algae manually, do a regular water change, and use the waste water as a rinse bucket, us a soft nail brush or toothbrush (new - no soap/toothpaste on it) to scrub the algae off the rock, swish in the bucket and return the rock to the tank. Add a small army of snails and/or hermits, make sure to reduce or eliminate the source of the "fertilizer" that is feeding the algae- sources of phoshpate, such as poor quality and/or excessive fish food, coral foods, tap water, poor quality carbon (can leach phosphate), cut your photoperiod to 10 hours max., make sure your bulbs are not too old (colour shift), make sure there's no direct sunlight on the tank, make sure your skimmer is operating at peak capacity, keep alk and calcium up, and this should help get rid of it once, and for all.
HTH
Jenn
Well, this may be it. I've had another outbreak of hair algae and I'm thinking of throwing in the towel. If I do, what are my chances of selling off my equipment? I know I won't get what I've got in it, but If I could get half, that would be ok. I've got a good friend that runs a LFS and I could proly take the fish to him. As for corals and crabs and snails, will they ship? I have alot of top quality dry goods most are even less than 2 months old. This is a hard decision for me, I've even thought about downsizing just so I wouldn't have to get rid of my fish. I've gotten so attached to them. 
