Near catastrophy! Warning to others.

[wagnerke]

Sorry about the last post did not see the pics on the valves. Here is a more direct route for the JetStream system I'm runnig.


http://www.marineland.com/products/cons ... ssuper.asp


-Kevin

 

[Anonymous]

Righty,

My setup I bought from Marineland. Its called Jetstream. There web stite is
www.marineland.com. I tried to include some pic's but my picture size's are to big. I will try to make them smaller and include them later. Go to the website to see my setup. Just to let you know I'm not using there tide pool sump I have a Amiracle 350 filter. I'm still wondering if someone can explain to me the differance between gate and ball values.

Thats gonna give you noise because its basically just a drain. You might wanna think about changing the configuration into a durso standpipe type setup. Check out http://www.rl180reef.com/pages/standpip ... _frame.htm
for good info.

A ball valve has a ball with a hole in it attatched to the handle you turn. Very good for on/off applications, but hard to make accurate adjustments to the flow.
A gate valve has a handle that screws up and down in the valve, bringing a small gate up and down across the flow of water. You can use it to make tiny, accurate adjustments to the flow.

 

[smokin reefer]

Ok, ok sorry for the snappy response. I do have a cover on the overflow box to prevent things from entering the box. But the algea grows inside the box. The biggest one was a little larger than a pea. But as stated above, the ball valve has the pipe diameter restricted. I have had this set up for 3 years now with no problems. If one does have this set up is recommended to check them periodically. Which I did not do. I will read into the other recommendations in depth, and will consider changing the current setup. If one does not ever change, he will become stale. :?

 

[esmithiii]

Maybe this will clear up some confusion: Ball valves should be installed in drain lines. They will not cause clogs as long as the valve is completely open. When it is open, the inside is completely smooth, and is the same inside diameter as the pipe you connect it to. The trouble begins when you use the valve to control water flow.

Having a ball valve coupled with compression fittings (quick-disconnect fittings) installed can help in maintenance.

Hope this helps.

Ernie

 

[dizzy]

Maybe this will clear up some confusion: Ball valves should be installed in drain lines. They will not cause clogs as long as the valve is completely open. When it is open, the inside is completely smooth, and is the same inside diameter as the pipe you connect it to. The trouble begins when you use the valve to control water flow.

Having a ball valve coupled with compression fittings (quick-disconnect fittings) installed can help in maintenance.

Hope this helps.
Ernie

Ernie,
I would suggest changing the above should to could. I've never put a ball valve in a drain line in my life. Also instead of compression fittings, I believe true unions valves or just PVC unions are probably what you meant to say. The PVC unions are readily available at places like Lowes and Home Depot. BTW if you have a valve in line it needs to opened and closed once in awhile to clear the obstructions that tend to grow in it. I have had them completely freeze up after years of operation without moving them.
Mitch
PS
Hi Doug

One other question for Ernie. Why would you put a ball valve in a drain line and then leave it completely open? Wouldn't it be simpler not to have it at all?

 

[wagnerke]

Righty,

Point taken, but for me to change I would have to tear down my whole tank. Not somethnig I would do lightly. Thanks all for the info on the gate valves.

I was looking for someone who had this type of setup for suggestions on how to quiet it. Anybody?

-Kevin

 

[Anonymous]

In a normal tank to sump to tank setup, there is absolutely no need for any type of drain line valve if the plumbing is set up correctly. If it is serving a purpose, you may want to rethink your plumbing system. It is much more effective, foolproof, and less redundant to put one valve in the return pump line. That is all you need. The volume being pushed by your return pump is what determines the volume that passes over your overflow(s). If you need to quiet your overflows, decrease the valve output at return pump. Using a drain valve, if you were to decrease your drain line flow too much, your tank will overflow.

A valve after the return pump and after your overflows is redundant and can lead to disasters...much like the topic of this thread!

 

[Anonymous]

Righty,

Point taken, but for me to change I would have to tear down my whole tank. Not somethnig I would do lightly. Thanks all for the info on the gate valves.

I think the gizmo at the top of the riser on the Jetstream is removable. If so, it would be easy to convert it to a durso without breaking down the tank.

 

[esmithiii]

In a normal tank to sump to tank setup, there is absolutely no need for any type of drain line valve if the plumbing is set up correctly. If it is serving a purpose, you may want to rethink your plumbing system. It is much more effective, foolproof, and less redundant to put one valve in the return pump line. That is all you need. The volume being pushed by your return pump is what determines the volume that passes over your overflow(s). If you need to quiet your overflows, decrease the valve output at return pump. Using a drain valve, if you were to decrease your drain line flow too much, your tank will overflow.

A valve after the return pump and after your overflows is redundant and can lead to disasters...much like the topic of this thread!

I do not totally agree. In my case, I have had fish go over the edge of the overflow. I have shut off the valve to one overflow to be able to remove the standpipe so that I can net the little fish out without fear of it going down the open drain bulkhead.

Ernie

 

[dizzy]

I do not totally agree. In my case, I have had fish go over the edge of the overflow. I have shut off the valve to one overflow to be able to remove the standpipe so that I can net the little fish out without fear of it going down the open drain bulkhead.
Ernie

If the little bugger is small enough to go through the bulkhead it ought to make it on down to your sump where it can be retrieved. I sort of like to have wet section for my skimmer, that the water goes to first after leaving the tank. If big fish are getting past your oveflow the notches are too large.

 

[esmithiii]

In my case the first chamber of the sump has the skimmer, heaters and probes in it which makes catching the fish even harder.

Ernie

 

[Anonymous]

Ernie,

I guess I hadn't thought of that.
I have my overflow covered with eggcrate.
Anything that gets in will have no problem making it thru to the sump.

 

[esmithiii]

I have had eggcrate for a while, but some fish get through anyway.

Ernie