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Jime

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I have a 1/3 HP chiller on my 190 gallon reef tank. It's having a hard time keeping the tank cool. Now that the wheather has warmed up here in California the tank will not drop below 80. With the sump there is probably 240 gallons total water volume. I have dual 400 watt 6500K MH's and four 110 Watt VHO's. The canopy is cooled with a 6 inch fan blowing out of a blow hole in the top of the hood. Anyone else have this chiller on a tank this size? Are you having better luck keeping the temp down? Thanks
 

DustinDorton

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That chiller should work pretty good on a tank that size. Where is the chiller installed? Is it getting enough air flow? Chillers also have to be recharged from time to time.

You might also want to consider increasing the airflow in the canopy.
 
A

Anonymous

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I would not loose any sleep over 80 degrees. My tank typically runs 82 - 83 in the summer and it is no problem at all for any of my SPS, LPS, or clams.

Louey
 

Len

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Also, make sure it's not fighting with the heater. The refrigerant may need changing as well, although I've had my 1/3rd hp for 5 years now and haven't had to survice it yet.
 

t gallo

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how much flow are you pushing thru the chiller, if it's to much the water cant get a chance to cool. im also usein'g a 1/3 hp custom sea life, i had it on my old tank a 150, but after getting my 350 plus a 150 gallon sump this chiller is haveing a hard time that is running alot keeping the tank at 79 f , also my lighting is 3 400 radiums @3 250 hqi ab, two iwaki 100 for sump return and ampmaster 4700 for closed loop @ iwaki 70 for the skimmer no power heads or submersabls pumps. i was thinking about getting a pacific coast chiller maybe 3/4 or 1 hp model but there knew chillers and a littile nervous about giving them a try but they are cheaper then custom sea life or aqualogic.s chillers, anyone give them a try yet. my chiller is located in the garage but it still gets hot in there, they do kick of a lot of heat / chiller that is.
 

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Jime

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I don't have a heater, I guess I'll just deal with it. I just got my new Euro-Reef CS12-2. Do those pumps add a lot of heat? I have 2 Ampmaster pumps (one 3000, and one 3600). Looks like it might be time for another UPGRADE.... Anyone have one of these?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... gory=20758
I tried to to slow the flow and saw no effect. I'll give it a day or so and see what happens. Would love to keep the tank at 76.
Sorry have no idea how to post an URL link. BTW how do you up a photo?[/url]
 

Len

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Pacific Coast is relatively new to the aquarium market, so chances are few have had experiences with them. They look well built though. You can be our guinea pig :P If you do get it, let us know what you think of it.

THe Sedras on the Euroreef don't add that much heat for a 200+ gallon volume of water. The ampmasters were resident before, so that's nothing new. It's probably just the hot temperatures. 80 degrees is fine, btw.

Check out all the suggestions posted in here (flow rate, refrigerant, ventilation, etc.). Those are all probable suspects.
 

Robin Goodfellow

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if it's to much <flow> the water cant get a chance to cool
I tried to to slow the flow and saw no effect.

hi.
I want to point out a common misconception among reefers and process engineers. It is better for the flow to be high, and for chiller specs, you will see a minimium flow rate, not maximum. This is the cooling will be more efficient with higher flow rate. In fact, get the highest flow you can get from a pump thru the chiller without overdo it by adding too much wattage (heat).

I will be glad to give a lesson, but as usual, I don't have the time...
 

t gallo

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flow rate, no there is also a maximum flow rate for chillers it's on the spec sheets, on mine that is custom sea life. did you ever run your hand over a candle flame really fast, i doesen't get burned. :lol:
 

Robin Goodfellow

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hi.
The maximium flow parameter you see is there so that ignore people won't use a huge pump for a little chiller, and adding more heat (via the pump) than what the chiller can take out. The heat exchanger is also rated to certain pressure (water) so that if people use the wrong pump, it can be busted.

On the finger over flame argument, I just want to point out that your observation is correct, but irrelevant to the case of liquid cooling. This is because the fluid is always in contact with the cooling surface, while the finger/flame case the contact time is linear with the velocity. A more appropriate analogy is to blow air across a hot iron to cool it off faster. (Please, this is not the evaporative cooling principle with hot iron!)

Again, the fact that chiller will cool better with higher flow rate.
 

golfish

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Jime.
We are talking about the inline model, right? I ran the same unit on my 150 gal sps tank, 40 gal sump and 25 gal fuge. The tank had 3x400 watt MH's, AM3K, 2x Mag12's, ER CS6-3, Gemini powerhead. I had the chiller plumb outside and never had a problem.
 

Jime

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Yes it's the inline model and it is plumbed outside as well (about 20 feet of PVC round trip all insulated). I had no problems with it on my 100 gallon. I spoke with the guys at AquaLogic and they did suggest the flow rate might be a problem so I throttled it back and we'll see. It is a hot one today so I have my fingers crossed.
 

RGibson

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One way is to chech the water tem going in and the water tem going out of the chiller. A 10 deg drop in water tem is a good place to start. RGibson
 

Jime

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The reduced flow seems to be working. The tank is running at 78 and it's a hot one today. Thanks for all the help.
 

golfish

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Jime,
You read my mind, after thinking about it for awhile I thought about flow. I'd say I was doing 600 gph through mine.
 

t gallo

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i bought a pacific coast chiller today, 1/2 hp to replace my custom sea life 1/3 model wich justcant keep up with the new tank/ it runs almost 12 hours a day to keep the tank at 79f so this 1/2 unit should do the trick, and i guess i'll be the giunea pig on this one. pacific coast claims this chiller has been tested for 8 years before going on the market, and compared to the custm sea life 1/3 unit i have, visually speaking, the cooling coil compartment if fully insulated and so are the compressor lines, it has a biult in thermostat wich elimanates the remote controller. i'll let you guys and gals now how this unit performes over time but for now, will just have to wait and see.
 

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