Even with a massive house filtration system (removes almost all DOS, chemicals etc.). I still have a high nitrate reading coming out of the taps. I'd like to add a r/o,di unit to remove this; as 1: I don't have an LFS that is less than 60 miles away, and 2: After testing the water from the r/o,di units at most grocery stores nearby, they aren't all that great (must not be changing out the filters as they should be). I'd like some recommendations on a brand that is 1: easy to use, and 2: won't break the bank, but will get the job done. Again, nitrates seem to be the only problem left, DOS and most other problems have been eliminated by the main filtration. Thanks.
R/o, DI unit recommendations
- Thread starter tazdevil
- Start date
At this point, figure 10 gallons a week in winter, or less. I am planning on a larger tank (150-200g) so eventually this will increase quite a bit. I was under the impression that an R/O,DI filter would remove nitrates as well? Also, if the unit isn't used for a week or 2 (max) would this adversly affect its performance?
I like and use the Kent Hi-S RO unit. No sense in getting the DI portion, it doesn't improve water quality that much and adds cost in the long run.
Recommend the 60 GPD unit, more is always better.
When you get the unit get a kent float valve with solenoid and a saddle valve to tap into copper plumbing --makes life much easier, you can put it in the basement or garage and let it constantly be filling your top-off reservoir.
Nellie
Recommend the 60 GPD unit, more is always better.
When you get the unit get a kent float valve with solenoid and a saddle valve to tap into copper plumbing --makes life much easier, you can put it in the basement or garage and let it constantly be filling your top-off reservoir.
Nellie
Nellie:
Sorry to hear about your stupidity problem. Can't really suggest anything there...
I'm still curious as to how you drew the conclusion that the DI unit isn't needed?
Tazdevil:
Since you already have treated/filtered water at the tap, maybe another, low cost, possibility for water purification is a tap water purifier. I use one for top-off water and it produces 0 ppm (sometimes sneaks up to 1 ppm) TDS readings at the output if you keep the flow to a minimum.
Whether or not these units are cost effectve long term or at high volumes (sounds like you'll need high volumes in the future) really depends on what your tap is like, but since you're already treating it before it would hit the DI, it might work really well for you. Something else to consider - at least maybe in the short term...
Sorry to hear about your stupidity problem. Can't really suggest anything there...
I'm still curious as to how you drew the conclusion that the DI unit isn't needed?
Tazdevil:
Since you already have treated/filtered water at the tap, maybe another, low cost, possibility for water purification is a tap water purifier. I use one for top-off water and it produces 0 ppm (sometimes sneaks up to 1 ppm) TDS readings at the output if you keep the flow to a minimum.
Whether or not these units are cost effectve long term or at high volumes (sounds like you'll need high volumes in the future) really depends on what your tap is like, but since you're already treating it before it would hit the DI, it might work really well for you. Something else to consider - at least maybe in the short term...
Thanks everyone for the replies. The TDS is virtually zero with the filtration unit on the house currently (kind of scared to think what we might have been drinking before that was added!). I've decided on an R/O, DI system, would like to put it in place after the source water goes thru the main house filtration, which also means, it will have softener added before it gets to the remote R/O, DI system to be filtered for the Nitrate/Po4 removal. Is this a good idea, or should I put it before that system (which would be a major undertaking, not impossible, more of a P.I.T.A.)? Would the water being softened before it goes thru the R/O,DI unit affect the R/O,DI unit itself?, and would the water coming out of the R/O, DI unit still be of good quality even though it had been softened prior to entering the R/O, DI unit? Last question, if my water pressure dips (summer sprinkling usage throughout this city, everyone's pressure drops considerably), would the water coming out of the R/O,DI unit still be filtered as well?
Nitrate around 3ppm, Po4, can't remember, however it is detectable, and varies quite a bit. As far as TDS, when they tested my water, it was not by a reader, it was by precipitate method (ugh, you should've seen it). Retested, and no precipitate present.
Sounds like the TDS results should be accurate. Are you sure the nitrate results are correct? It seems strange to me that you're getting any nitrate or phosphate readings in 0 ppm TDS water. Anyway, since the water is so pure at the tap, I'd just go with the DI unit - it should last a very long time. You might also find this thread, this thread and this thread useful. Good luck with whatever you choose. 
Wolfman, to f/u on your last post- the main filtration unit takes municipal water, runs it thru a filtration unit, then that is what comes out of the tap (which is how the TDS is being eliminated). This water they call "utility" water, good for cooking/cleaning/bathing etc. However, not recommended for drinking. There is a second filtration unit that has water with little nitrates in it, and chlorine filtered out (the company didn't recommend this water for use in the tank, and this is the water we drink. The only area that receives city water is the outside taps, with the high nitrate level, I never have fertilized the lawn!. The nitrate tests were done with 3 different kist, all agreed (amazingly) on the nitrate level. Anyone know if water pressure drops, will that negatively affect the performance? (other than the water coming out slow)
Also, thanks for the links, sounds like before or after a softener is not entirely decided on. For ease, I'll go after, as that makes the water go thru the main filtration and then the seperate R/O, DI addition. Guess with all the junk in municipal water, you can't over-filter it before it goes in the tank!
Also, thanks for the links, sounds like before or after a softener is not entirely decided on. For ease, I'll go after, as that makes the water go thru the main filtration and then the seperate R/O, DI addition. Guess with all the junk in municipal water, you can't over-filter it before it goes in the tank!
Wolfman, splendid jackassery, but...
With Kent Hi-S RO only, reportedly 98% plus of the silicates are removed. With a good prefilter set including a carbon filter, water quality is well within acceptable for fanciful TDS ideas.
I've run three separate systems over ten years without ever measuring the elusive and troubling TDS phantom, with absolutely no mid-night sweaty wake-ups or algae problems or coral growth/health problems.
Perhaps if you presented a scientifically supported, factually based argument on the oy vey problems of TDS, you would have a thread of credibility.
But with out it, your opinion, is really just that, opinion.
With Kent Hi-S RO only, reportedly 98% plus of the silicates are removed. With a good prefilter set including a carbon filter, water quality is well within acceptable for fanciful TDS ideas.
I've run three separate systems over ten years without ever measuring the elusive and troubling TDS phantom, with absolutely no mid-night sweaty wake-ups or algae problems or coral growth/health problems.
Perhaps if you presented a scientifically supported, factually based argument on the oy vey problems of TDS, you would have a thread of credibility.
But with out it, your opinion, is really just that, opinion.
You can not go wrong with aquaticreefsystems, there the (BEST) for prices you can't beat them. but the most (important) thing about this company is there customer service, any questions you have, or if you need any help this company is there for you, i will get all my replacement filters from Aquaticreefsystems, Bryan and his staff are the best.
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