BEST AUTO TOPOFF SYSTEMS?????????

[golfish]

cwa46,
Did you read ALL of my post?

 

[esmithiii]

Ernie,
Have you seen one of these

Thanks. I may have to get one of those, at the very least to run my sprinkler!

Ernie

 

[Anonymous]

golfish,

Yes I read all of yours posts, and again after this post. I guess I am missing something you think is important. What is it?

 

[danmhippo]

cwa46, you asked

I have never talked to anyone who has had one fail. Have you?

and Goldfish said earlier,

I used what George is using for a while. Its a disaster waiting to happen. Even if the pump only pumps 10 gal an hour its going to happen. I know, I happened to me twice. This is why I use the Liter meter. You can set it to pump just a little more then the amount you evap everyday. Then if my two float switches fail it will take a week for my sump to flood.

[/quote]

 

[Anonymous]

Golfish,

Do you know the difference between a float "valve" and a float "switch"? A float valve is like the one in your toilet. It is very simply made and trouble free. If it fails it leaks slowly over time and doesn't just dump into your tank. If you hook a float "valve" to your RO system and plumb it into your sump, it makes a great top-off system. I didn't say the "best", because I havn't tried all of them. The chances of the float "valve" failing are much smaller than a float "switch". Did you read all of my post?

 

[golfish]

These posts on top-off systems always end up with everyone talking about what system has the least risk of flooding. Nobody knows and nobody even asks if anybody has had failures or flooding. If so, what was the setup?
I think the most simple solution is the best. (Float valve in sump), and I have never talked to anyone who has had one fail. Have you?

You asked and I qutoe again "These posts on top-off systems always end up with everyone talking about what system has the least risk of flooding. Nobody knows and nobody even asks if anybody has had failures or flooding. If so, what was the setup"

And then I asked if you read all of my earlier post because I pointed it out in one of them. So to answer your question, YES, I did read your post. Did YOU read your post?

How do you know that a float switch has a greater chance at failing then a float valve? Because you read it?

Now, I think you need to look above at your last post where you started to be a smart A$$. It was DamnHippo who quoted you not me. I do know the difference between a float switch and a float valve. That was not part of your fisrt question now was it?

Also, if you hook a float valve up to an RO unit. How does it shut off the RO unit. I know these float valve are used with gravity feed top-off tanks but how do you shut off the solinoid that will shut off the waste water. You just can't hook a float valve up to RO system, turn on the system and let it run. The good water will be stopped by the float valve but the waste water will just keep running. It must have some kind of switch connected to the float...Naw, then it would be a float switch.

 

[Anonymous]

IMHO, any automated system has some percentage of failure, no matter how slight. Using a small resivoir with a sump big enough to overcome the addition helps, as does redendent methods, such as duel float switches since it is unlikely, however slightly probable, that both would fail at the same time. I think the only 100% fool proof method of topping off without a chance of flooding or failure is manual addition, but then again that is too much work. If you plan for contingencies, IMHO any/all methods will work just fine.

 

[Anonymous]

golfish,

There are pressure actuated valves that shut off the waste water when the filtered water is not in use. Nothing is electrical, just mechanical. One of the reasons toilets use valves rather than float switches is their reliability and lack of catastrophic failure. So Golfish, there is a completely mechanical system for topping off. I am sorry you don't like it and that you know it is a disaster waiting to happen. Thanks for you scientific and unbiased approach. This a$$h0ii for one appreciates your expertise.

 

[golfish]

lol, I'd like to see these pressure actuated valves. You seem to be putting words in my mouth and can't answer the simplest of questions

Where did I question the reliability of your top-off system. You really need to sit back and read

 

[golfish]

cwa46,
I'd like to apologies. I've been working on my system all day and I'm beat. When you asked "Nobody knows and nobody even asks if anybody has had failures or flooding. If so, what was the setup?" I answered that in my second post, or should I say I said that a float switch and powerhead had failed me.

You then asked "I guess I am missing something you think is important. What is it?" Again, this was in the second post.


Then you asked "Do you know the difference between a float "valve" and a float "switch"?" That would be yes. I only talked about a float switch because that's all I have ever used. That and a drip system.

Again, I apologies for being the A$$..



Mark

 

[Tcook]

I've had a Kent float valve fail on me twice while I was away. Salt creep froze it in the closed position so the water level in my sump dropped. I haven't had any problems with my LifeReef float switch that has been running for the past year and a half.

 

[esmithiii]

Also, if you hook a float valve up to an RO unit. How does it shut off the RO unit. I know these float valve are used with gravity feed top-off tanks but how do you shut off the solinoid that will shut off the waste water. You just can't hook a float valve up to RO system, turn on the system and let it run. The good water will be stopped by the float valve but the waste water will just keep running. It must have some kind of switch connected to the float...Naw, then it would be a float switch.

Actually a float switch is something else entirely. In the case you mention above, a mechanical solenoid is actuated using backpressure which shuts off the feed water.

A float switch is electrical, and it turns on a pump which feeds top-off water. These are two completely different approaches.

Ernie

 

[Jimmy Walls]

I use both float valves and float switches depending on the setup.
I have not had a float valve fail yet, but have heard of some that have. I have not had one of my switches fail either, but had someone I had helped setup their tank have theirs fail twice. We cleaned it well and have not had a problem since. I have been looking at the Tunze topoff setup.
It is a little pricey, but it comes with a pump, it has audible alarms and will turn off the pump if the first probe fails.

http://www.tunze.com/usa/en-gb/dept_129.html

Custom Aquatics has that one and some others choices you may want to look at.

http://www.customaquatic.com/customaqua ... ID=el-ffs#


Jimmy

 

[Marcosreef]

I use the Tunze Osmoregulator system on my 29g.

I choose it because most top-off methods allow for excessive evaporation to occur before top-off will begin, resulting in a significant salinity increase.

By using a infra-red sensor, it is sensitive to 1/16 of an inch! It also includes a back up float switch.

Also, I use the preskimmer on my Aqua-C Remora, which is very sensitive to the water level in the tank.

Just something to think about, esp. for those who have small reefs.

Regards, Marco

 

[esmithiii]

I choose it because most top-off methods allow for excessive evaporation to occur before top-off will begin, resulting in a significant salinity increase.

My Float switch is just as sensitive.

Ernie

 

[Marcosreef]

Ernie,
What brand float switch is yours? I may need one for a custom Kalk setup soon.

Regards, Marco

 

[Osama]

Ernie
My Kent Ro/Di unit feeds directly my float switch in my 5 g top off reservoir. I had my system installed by LFS He ordered a shutoff solenoid from Kent that will shut off the waiste water when not refilling. Any leaks though will make the system malfunction & continue to waste water. I have not relied on it fully BUT it does work.

 

[esmithiii]

Ernie
My Kent Ro/Di unit feeds directly my float switch in my 5 g top off reservoir. I had my system installed by LFS He ordered a shutoff solenoid from Kent that will shut off the waiste water when not refilling. Any leaks though will make the system malfunction & continue to waste water. I have not relied on it fully BUT it does work.

I have this same solenoid. It is pressure actuated, so any air caught in the RO unit will cause it not to shut off the feed water. My system works like this:

My RO/DI unit feeds a 35G resevoir in my attic which has a kent float valve. When the valve closes (the resovoir is full) the backpressure causes the solenoid to shut off the feed water.

I have a line that runs from my attic to my office (home office where the fish tank is) that is pressureized due to the resevoir being in the attic. This line feeds (through a manually operated gate valve) a second freshwater resevoir (10G) that has a powerhead and tubing that feeds my sump. In my sump I have a float switch, which kicks the powerhead on when the sump level drops. I have to manually fill the second resevoir, but this is my fail-safe incase the float switch sticks.

Ernie

 

[royy]

I do it the old fashioned way. I dump about a gallon of water into the tank everyday. Never failed yet.

Roy

 

[esmithiii]

Royy: Your way is not nearly technical enough, and is too cheap!

Ernie