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pghflame

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I am most likely going to buy an Icecap retro w/ 4 36" bulbs. VHOs are new to me and I've noticed the URI lights only come in 50/50 and actinic (and the other FO light). What would be the recommended combination? Also, are there other VHO lights out there...and would you actually go with something other than the URIs in favor of a different "K" for the bulb?

Thanks
 

imow

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You can use NO fluorescents on the icecap ballast. Alot cheaper, and more choices, while putting out the same light as vho bulbs.
 

pghflame

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Imow, thanks for the reply, and don't take offense, but I find it hard to believe that the NO will put out the same as the VHOs. If I am understanding you correctly, then a 36" NO will put out the same wattage as a VHO of the same length? I don't doubt that you can run a NO in a VHO ballast, but I can't see how it generates the same wattage...why even make VHO bulbs if that is the case?

Ruling NO bulbs out, what would be the recommended VHO bulbs for 4 x 36"?
 

reefmut

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my previuos setup was 1 50/50 and 1 actinic blue both were uri. I was very satisfied with the bulb as far as the combination that depends on the tank size and the clor spectrum you want to view. but i think you may want 2 50/50 an 2 actinic if this is your main source of lighting. depending on the type of corals you are keeeping or want to keep in the future you can add a metal halide to th2 last config. i mentioned.....
 
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Anonymous

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I have a 75 gallon, and am running an Icecap 660 ballast with four URI bulbs.

The bulb breakdown is two 50/50, and two actinic 03...my tank looks like this :

tank.jpg


Hope this helps...

Peace,

Chip
 

skylsdale

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote
but I find it hard to believe that the NO will put out the same as the VHOs.

Believe it man....believe it. I just did a follow up thread with people on another board who have been "overdriving" NO bulbs for a while now. Why even bother spending money on an IceCap ballast?

The basic premise is using an electric(not tar or magnetic) ballast made for powering multiple bulbs. They most often use T8 bulbs because the light is more concentrated and they use less energy, as well as being more compact--you can fit more under the hood. Let's say the ballast can power 4 bulbs....you then wire it in a series to ONE BULB. It's putting out the energy it would use to light four bulbs, but sending it all downstream to that one single bulb. Result? The intensity and quality of VHO, but for a fraction of the cost. Of course with all the energy running through them they need to be replaced more often, but $3 for a 65ook at Home Depot isn't that much compared to $20 a pop for other bulbs.

Just to preface, most people are only wiring them 2x....not 4x like I used in the example. This still gives plenty of light and doesn't torch or blacken the ends of the bulbs as quickly.
 

imow

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Thanks Skylsdale.

---Ive been doing it for awhile now. Saves a bundle of cash. You are actually foolish not to.
 

SPC

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Posted by Skysdale:
Just to preface, most people are only wiring them 2x....not 4x like I used in the example. This still gives plenty of light and doesn't torch or blacken the ends of the bulbs as quickly.

- I have a couple of questions,
1. What do you mean by "plenty of light"? Same amount as Ice Cap and URI?
2. When you say blacken the ends of the bulbs, do you consider this to be a safe situation?
Steve
 

skylsdale

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote
1. What do you mean by "plenty of light"? Same amount as Ice Cap and URI?
Yes, and sometimes more...depending on the ballast design and how many bulbs you run with it.

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote
2. When you say blacken the ends of the bulbs, do you consider this to be a safe situation?
Well that depends: any NO bulb left running for long enough--no matter how weak the ballast--will begin to acquire blackened ends. I think there is a difference between pushing the bulbs within a safe limit(producing more rapid wear than usual) and full out pushing them beyond all reason.
 

SPC

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Posted by Skysdale:
The basic premise is using an electric(not tar or magnetic) ballast made for powering multiple bulbs.

A few more questions if you don't mind:
1.What ballast are you referring to here?
2.If I use one of the ballasts (originally intended to run 4 bulbs) how many bulbs can I run on it to get the same amount of light as from 1 Ice Cap and 2 URI bulbs?
3. How much do these ballasts cost?
4. How hot does the ballast get as compared to Ice Cap?
5. How hot do the bulbs get as compared to URI and Ice Cap combo?
Steve
 
A

Anonymous

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Overdriving bulbs will cut their lives almost in half. Which means they need to be replaced almost twice as often. URI makes quality bulbs that are really not that expensive. I trust URI quality and cannot,in good conscience,abandon their bulbs for a few dollars a year. Just MO.
 

pperez

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I have an icecap 660 and i run 1 uri VHO acinic white, 1 coralife NO acinic 3, and two GE 6500k NO lamps. I love the look and it looks crisp white. HTH
 

skylsdale

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SPC, as far as the ballast, the brand doesn't really matter as long as it is an ELECTRIC ballast. Make sure if you're using T8 bulbs that the ballast is designed to run them as well.

If you got the ballast which runs 4x bulbs...I would suggest only running 2 bulbs on that ballast. Other have done fewer bulbs to such a strong ballast, but they also experience heating problems and really quick burn-out of the bulbs. If you find a happy medium, I don't see how overdriving them would give the bulb any shorter life than if you were running it on an IceCap ballast...

The ballasts that I have seen at HD are usually around $18-19. Again, as far as this being cost effective, it may depend on your tank. People trying to illuminate smaller tanks definitely benefit from this...but those with larger tanks may not.

I had to search for a while, but found the ORIGINAL thread on this whole thing, posted by the guy who figured it out. It's a little long, but definitely worth the read if you're interested in it. It should answer most of the questions you have: http://www.reefcentral.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?s=&threadid=48133&perpage=40&pagenumber=1
 

imow

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Anemonebuff, lets do the math. Say Im running 4 VHO's and I change my bulbs once a year. Thats about 84.00, assuming you can find them for 21$ each, without shipping.
I can buy 4 bulbs at Walmart for $4 each. 16$ a pop, changing them TWICE (which IMO is overkill...mine last 9-10 months) a year would be $32.00. Thats is saving you 52$ each year (more if you change them less often) !! All for a brand name.
 

pghflame

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Thanks...all of this is very interesting. But it also brings up another couple of questions. How do actually know that a 20w NO bulb is putting out the light of an 80w VHO bulb it is supposed to be replacing (bulb wattages stated are hypothetical) in terms of intensity and lumens? And secondly...if you are running more wattage through a bulb than what it is UL rated for, isn't that dangerous?

I really would like to save money, and I'm not doubting what you are all saying....i'm also the type that needs to be convinced of safety AND effectiveness of what is being proposed. The other thing this brings up is....if this is so cheap and the way to go, why is this the first time I am ever hearing about it?

This response is not meant to offend or flame anyone, I am just seeking information....So don't get upset.

Thanks again
 

imow

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Pghflame-- The tests are done with a light meter measuring the outout of the bulbs. I use my corals as a guide on when to changeout the bulbs. As to the danger of running NO, you would have to consult an electrician.

I always assumed that people knew about using NO bulbs on an electric ballast. Youve probably never heard of it because the question rarely comes up.
 

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