Why do you use DI and RO water for changes?

[Dewman]

And, could this be the reason I have small thin green algae growing out of my live rock. I don't have much mind you, but it has just begun to grow. I set up my partially cured live rock in my tank on the 21st (Nov) and the ammonia level is below .25ppm. NO2 NO3 are still high.
Should I leave lights off in the tank while I am cycling the tank?
I have done searches on RO and DI, but noone says WHY they use it, only that they do use it.\

Tanks...

 

[Dargason]

Well, often your tapwater has things in it that are undesirable in your tank. In my case, it was copper, which is death for invertibrates, so I had no choice but to use filtered water.

Of course not everyone has copper in their tapwater, but you may have elevated levels of phosphates, which can enhance algae growth, or silicates, which can contribute to cyano problems, or even nitrates, which are the end product of your nitrogen cycle (unless you have a DSB or other denitrification system). One of the main reasons you do water changes is to remove the nitrates from the tank, so having them in your replacement water is undesirable.

Having said all that, I've heard that a lot of people don't have trouble using tapwater. I guess it just depends on your water. If you want, you can have it tested.

As for the algae growth you are experiencing, it's normal to have an algae "bloom" during cycling and even for the first few months of the tank's life.

HTH

 

[Dewman]

Excellent. I did a partial water change yesterday and used SAMS CHOICE deionized water from Wally World. I mixed 3 gallons of instant ocean using it lastnight for adding to the tank for evaporation later.
Do I need to keep the lights off while cycling the rest of the way. I want my corraline algae to spread but wasn't sure if it was photosynthetic or not. Also, it's nice to have some macro growing. I am getting anxious for the thing to finish so I can add some softies though

Must be patient...must be patient...

Thanks

 

[Ben1]

Dewman from you post it sounds as if your adding salt water for evaporation, if so you are raising your salinity. You MUST use FRESH water for evap.

Sounds like hair algea to me, it is normal but pull it out if it is hair algea. As once it spreads it can become a problem to pull out.

Coraline algea is photosynthetic and reqiure low P02 to grow. P02 prevents calcification hence stopping/slowing the growth of hard corals. It will grow nice once P02 is gone and CA/ALK levels are correct. IMO CA 420 ppm and ALK 4.0 meg/l.
This is one reason for using RO/DI, the units are generally affordable and well worth the cost in the long run.

HTH

[ December 04, 2001: Message edited by: Ben ]</p>

 

[Anonymous]

Regardless of the water you use you will have algea blooms. It is just part of maturing a tank.

Tap water poses a serious risk in that the treatment plants must change the chemicals they use so that bacteria does not becomes resistant.
Sooner or later you face the risk of killing your corals.

I have well water and that poses another risk high minerals that can be toxic to corals. My well water has never had this effect but with the minerals it does make for some serous algea blooms.

I just switched to RO/DI and algea has gone completely away and my tanks are mature.

 

[Gatortailale1]

"should I run my lights during cycling?"

Yes, however this is the time period when you should build up from 0 light to 10+ hours per day. Your first week should be maybe 2-3 hours a day. Then each week, up time by an hour. This will curb growth of undesirable algae, plus allow your tank time to cycle properly.

Also, many public tap water treatment plants add chloramine (sp?) a form of chlorine that can build up in your tank in the form of TOXIC ammonia. Spectra pure RO/DI systems can be built with extra chamber that contains cartridge to remove the chloramine.

Also, most tap water has silicates in it that promote the undesirable green hair algae and other algae.

 

[ReefMon]

To put it in simple terms...

When water evaporates only the water evaporates... the salt and the impurities in your tap water stay behind, so they will build up, some faster than others like the salt, some slower like the tiny bit of copper or phosphates and that will create big problems.

A RO will remove 98% (or RO/DI up to 99.9%) of those things you do not want in your tank.

HTH

Happy reefing!
Glenn R

 

[Gatortailale1]

http://www.spectrapure.com/

Better systems and they lowered prices. If your city uses chloramine you will want a system that has cartridge that filters it out.

 

[Dewman]

I spoke to the Lab Subervisor for my water district. He told me where I live in particular, we have no chloromines added, but there is 1.5 ppm of free chlorine added and .7ppm of dissolved chlorine in my water. He said that the levels (because of the extreme distance) are almost half as high by the time they get to me. I live ina a house that is almost 80 years old and the pipes are iron. I guess I need to get my water tested.

 

[Lunchbucket]

try dave at reefpure he has some great systems at great prices!!

Reef Pure

later
Lunchbucket

 

[MandarinFish]

I agree the purest water possible is necessary.

3 questions:

1) until I can afford an RO/DI unit, is it safe to use a Brita faucet filter (with a brand new filter)? Their site claims reductions:

Chlorine (99%), Hydrogen Sulfide (97%), Sediment (99.9%), Cryptosporidium (99.99%),Giardia (99.99%) 2, 4-D (99.8%), Alachlor (99%) (a herbicide), Atrazine (92%), Carbofuran (91%),
Chlordane (97%), Endrin (99%), Heptachlor Epoxide (95%), Lindane (99%), Methoxychlor (97%)
Simazine (98%), Toxaphene (94%) (a pesticide),
Asbestos (99.7%), Benzene (96%), Carbon Tetrachloride (97%), Ethylbenzene (99.9%), Lead (99%), Monochlorobenzene (99.9%),
o-Dichlorobenzene (99.9%), Styrene (99.9%),
Tetrachloroethylene (97%), Toluene (99.9%),
Trichloroethylene (99.8%), Turbidity (99%)

2) where could I get my local tapwater tested? My LFS?

3) where is the cheapest place to get an RO/DI unit that is reliable?

 

[Dewman]

I guess I will go looking for a RO/DI .
I will report back when I find out how much this will cost me.

Does anyone have any suggestions for economical units.

 

[Dewman]

OK
Found one. It's the 2 Stage Stingray Reverse Osmosis system.
50 GPD (Gallons Per Day??), I won't need more than that right? Under 100.00