gtag('event', 'conversion', {'send_to': 'AW-972395556/RN4nCJnV4tkCEKSo1s8D'}); -->
  • Why not take a moment to introduce yourself to our members?

BROKER

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
The plans I have call for the use of 1/2 inch PVC running to the sump (1inch bulkhead). I will be running a mag7 as a return but I am concerned about two things.

1)Do I need to make the overflows bigger than what the plan suggests to accomodate the larger bulkhead. My concern is the space in the tank for the overflow.

this is the plan I will be using

http://www.eparc.com/diy/overflows/williard/overflow.shtml

2)Will the amount of water flow to the sump when using the 1inch bulkheads and bigger overflow be to much for the mag7 to handle? I am figuring the mag7 will be pushing 460gph.

esmithiii thanks for the great sump plans. Once I get my hands on the right glue I should be in business.
 

MIKE NY1

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Broker with a 1" bulkhead, you may want to consider a larger pump or keep the overflow very high to the surface so you don't overflow the sump. You can always throttle down with a ball valve on the exhaust.

Good Luck with your plans
Mike
 

Roach

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I agree with Mike. I tried the mag7 on my 92 gallon tank and found it just didn't put out enough. So I went and got a mag 9 which really puts out the water, but I was able to fine tune it with a ball valve as Mike mentioned. It's nice to be able to tone it down because you can control your water level more.
 

BROKER

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I already have a mag7 that I was going to use. The
cabinet that I am building will give me 2' head. I have decided to add a second rubbermaid tank which
will be connected to the sump. If the following makes sense.

Tank <----------return
(2'down)sump+tank(up)
or

Tank-------------->
(up)tank+sump<(2' down)

I was going to use a 1'' input bulkhead, 2 inch bulkheads in between the sump and tank with a 3/4'' bulkhead return. Except for PVC in between the tank and sump I will be using clear plastic hose line.

Does this make any sense or am I heading for disaster?

(I will eventually upgrade my pump)

[ March 04, 2002: Message edited by: BROKER ]</p>
 

BROKER

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
What size overflow should I make to run to the 1inch bulkhead? Should I consider using a 3/4 bukhead instead for the input? I am worried that I will flood the house
icon_confused.gif
 

jethro

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I used the same plan that you are looking at. I used that for six months.

I recently decided to uprade to a bigger one for more water flow.

I made the new one using a 2-1/2" drain T for the bulkhead and 1" pvc to start the downpipe, eventually adapting to 1-1/4" vynyl tubing. The drain Ts that I bought do not break straight to a T but instead curve out. I have the curve going up on the one that is in the tank and I have the curve going down on the one outside the tank.

I bought all my material at lows. Setup was completed easily in one day. The thing is silent, practically self priming and easily handles my Hagen 802 which is the return pump.

I only wish I could find black PVC that is as small as the Ts that I used. But since I used threaded attachments, I can easily change what goes inside the tank when I find something better.
 

BROKER

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Jethro,

I think the the part that is throwing me is the

"I upgraded to 1" PVC for the Overflow with 2-1/2" Drain Ts for the "bulkhead".

I apologize for my lack of knowledge w/ terms, but what is a "2 1'2 drain t".

I really want to build a system that I can easily upgrade a pump to.

Do you have a sketch of your system?

Thanks for the help.
 

jethro

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Follow Willard's plan which your link goes to. He is using 1/2" PVC for the overflow.

Like I said. I have a 38 gallon tank with a 15 gallon sump and I was not happy with the rate of overflow from that plan so I upgraded to 1" PVC for the Overflow with 2-1/2" Drain Ts for the "bulkhead".

And yes, put a ball valve on your return to control the return rate. That is a very safe move.

Willards plan is very sensitive to positioning. If the overflow is not level, it may lose it's prime. So you want to test it on a regular basis to be sure you don't lose your prime in the event of a power failure.

The modified version I just set up doesn't seem to ever need priming. But time will tell.

Always test on a regular basis or you will have a wet floor when the power comes on.

[ March 06, 2002: Message edited by: jethro ]</p>
 

Sponsor Reefs

We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.

Click here to sponsor $10:


Top