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slojmn1

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For those of you using a regulator with a solenoid for your CO2 bottles is this the normal operating time for this part. I am totally bummed. Especially after pricing what a new one will cost me. I bought my deluxe CO2 kit with regulator, solenoid, and needle valve from Premium Aquatics last October for $119(did not set it up till this year), it is now listed for $145 at Premium Aquatics, WOW
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, quite the mark up in a year. I have an email in to Jason at Premium Aquatics about this part dieing so soon. We shall see what his response is. Looks like M3, Monolith Monsters, has a 6 month warrenty only. As it sat on my shelf for about 4 months and them was offf line for a couple of months when I got a new reactor to replace the first one it was only up and running for about 7 months. Figures the warrenty wont help!! I think warrenties are the greatest rip off to consumers.
 

myreef

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You don't need to buy a new regulator. You can buy a new solenoid and just replace it for about $40-50. Try to just replace that, you will be better off. Are you using a controller to control your effleuent pH or just have the solenoid to turn off the CO2 in case of a power failuer?
 

slojmn1

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myreef, I have the solenoid teamed up with a pH controller. It has been so awesome and easy to get my reactor dialed. I have basically not touched this thing for the past few months. Just the other day I was looking at my reactor setup and languishing in the ease of it all. Figures, the next day problems. Thank you for the info regarding just replacing the solenoid. I had no idea you could do that. Is it easy to swap out, plug in and go kind of dealy? Is there a certain brand solenoid that may be more reliable, or do I need to get it from M3 as this is their regulator? The regulator does not have name on it or anything so I am figuring I can get a solenoid of my choice.
 

AnotherGoldenTeapot

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How on earth can a solenoid valve fail beyond repair?

I'd be having a look at what has actually gone wrong.

If the valve is not opening then maybe there's too much back pressure from the regulator? Most valves will not open under more than a couple of bars of pressure.

If the valve is leaking then it has either got grit (or something) in the valve holding it open.

Maybe the diaphram in the regulator needs to be replaced? Or the diaphram in the solenoid? Both are "consumable" parts (that should last a very long time).

You haven't *cough* run out of gas *cough* have you?
 

slojmn1

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AnotherTeaPot, I have not a clue what those parts are and how to replace them or how to check if they are the problem. The back pressure from the regulator is confusing to me as I am clueless what this means. Can you expand on that idea as well as nay hints how to check the valve for all of these possibilities and how to clean it up? I have not run out of gas, although I could be on the last month or so as my pressure has dropped a bit(from 800psi to about 600psi). I have run out of gas in the past with no problems on the solenoid valve. I do notice that with it plugged in the solenoid valve does not get warm to the touch like it use to. Any help into how to fix what I got would be great.
 

ColdinCanada

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Mine never really worked properly. CO2 continues to flow even when the solenoid is shut. I tired cleaning it out with an air blast but it still leaks.

Jay
 

texman

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If it no longer gets warm, then the coil is burned out and it is very unlikely that you will be able to repair it cheaper than replacing it. I decided to run my CO2 reactor on a timer (1 hr on/ 1 hr off during the day) to minimize the heat buildup. I am not a solenoid expert, however I think that these solenoids are designed to be on for only a few minutes at a time and do not have adequate heat sinks to be on for extended periods. Mine began leaking after I had it turned on for several hours and I noticed that the rubber seal was starting to melt with the heat. Good luck!!
 

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