Lighting Requirements for Bubbletip?
- Thread starter rwing
- Start date
It is best to got the light that your tank needed the first time. It just cost lots more if you plan to have a tank and upgrade the light later.
NO lights are not enough for Anemone, even BTA. You will have to have either VHO or MH.
Ofcourse the size and dept of your tank is improtant in light selection also.
NO lights are not enough for Anemone, even BTA. You will have to have either VHO or MH.
Ofcourse the size and dept of your tank is improtant in light selection also.
Direct feeding is more important than the amount of light. This thread should shed some light on the subject http://www.reefcentral.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?threadid=34041
pun intended
pun intended
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Larry Grenier:
<STRONG>Direct feeding is more important than the amount of light. This thread should shed some light on the subject http://www.reefcentral.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?threadid=34041
pun intended
</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Larry,
I like Dr. Ron a lot and think he is great. I think this is one of the time he often use extreme example to make a point. Have you got him to give a straight answer to the question as to what kind of light he have his anemone under? Food is important, but lighting is also very important, even if it is only to keep the anemone stay put so he won't wander and kill your corals. I think lighting also provide a significant amount of the anemone nutrition.
Form vague recall of reading various posts in the past 3 years, I think Dr. Ron has his anemone under MH.
Also, have you personally keep any anemone successfully Larry?
<STRONG>Direct feeding is more important than the amount of light. This thread should shed some light on the subject http://www.reefcentral.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?threadid=34041
pun intended
Larry,
I like Dr. Ron a lot and think he is great. I think this is one of the time he often use extreme example to make a point. Have you got him to give a straight answer to the question as to what kind of light he have his anemone under? Food is important, but lighting is also very important, even if it is only to keep the anemone stay put so he won't wander and kill your corals. I think lighting also provide a significant amount of the anemone nutrition.
Form vague recall of reading various posts in the past 3 years, I think Dr. Ron has his anemone under MH.
Also, have you personally keep any anemone successfully Larry?
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Larry Grenier:
<STRONG>Direct feeding is more important than the amount of light.</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I have direct experience to the contrary of this statement. I purchased a tank-raised green bubbletip from Dr. Mac, and the day I put it in my tank it got caught in a powerhead and mangled. I did not think it would survive. This was months ago, and I do not feed it directly at all. It's in the mild current, on the bottom of my tank (75 gallon), and under 440 watts of VHO lighting. Not only did it recover, but it got twice the size it was, remained brilliantly colored, and over a month ago split into two little anemones that are now larger than they were when they split. All I rely on is the food that gets caught by them when I feed the tank, and the lighting.
I'm by no means an expert, nor do I consider myself even 'middle-ground' when it comes to reef-keeping, but I wanted to relay what I've experienced.
Peace,
Chip
[ October 12, 2001: Message edited by: marillion ]
<STRONG>Direct feeding is more important than the amount of light.</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I have direct experience to the contrary of this statement. I purchased a tank-raised green bubbletip from Dr. Mac, and the day I put it in my tank it got caught in a powerhead and mangled. I did not think it would survive. This was months ago, and I do not feed it directly at all. It's in the mild current, on the bottom of my tank (75 gallon), and under 440 watts of VHO lighting. Not only did it recover, but it got twice the size it was, remained brilliantly colored, and over a month ago split into two little anemones that are now larger than they were when they split. All I rely on is the food that gets caught by them when I feed the tank, and the lighting.
I'm by no means an expert, nor do I consider myself even 'middle-ground' when it comes to reef-keeping, but I wanted to relay what I've experienced.
Peace,
Chip
[ October 12, 2001: Message edited by: marillion ]
I feed my two bubble tip anemonies FOUR TIMES A YEAR!. I've had them for 2 years and they have reproduced once sexually and once asexually.
I also have two 400W MH (Ushio), 1 175W MH (Hamilton) and two 40W NO lights, in my 75g tank.
IF YOU HAVE THE INTENSE LIGHT THAT I HAVE YOU DON'T HAVE TO FEED THEM MUCH.
If you don't have the intense light you will have to keep them "well fed".
Dr. Shimek oversteps himself quite frequently. This is unfortunate, since I belive he has a lot of knowlege, but he comes across all wrong. So he degrades himself. The first thing he should do is get rid of his anti-Christian "darwin" logo. That ancient Christian symbol has been hijacked.
Anyway, so my advice for you is to get some mil-spec lighting. Heavy duty.
If you can't do that right now, then FORGET THE ANEMONIE. Just forget it. Why bother. Why subject an animal to dismal conditions.
-Nathan
[ October 12, 2001: Message edited by: Nathan ]
I also have two 400W MH (Ushio), 1 175W MH (Hamilton) and two 40W NO lights, in my 75g tank.
IF YOU HAVE THE INTENSE LIGHT THAT I HAVE YOU DON'T HAVE TO FEED THEM MUCH.
If you don't have the intense light you will have to keep them "well fed".
Dr. Shimek oversteps himself quite frequently. This is unfortunate, since I belive he has a lot of knowlege, but he comes across all wrong. So he degrades himself. The first thing he should do is get rid of his anti-Christian "darwin" logo. That ancient Christian symbol has been hijacked.
Anyway, so my advice for you is to get some mil-spec lighting. Heavy duty.
If you can't do that right now, then FORGET THE ANEMONIE. Just forget it. Why bother. Why subject an animal to dismal conditions.
-Nathan
[ October 12, 2001: Message edited by: Nathan ]
Save the cash your going to spend on the anemone and buy some decent lights. If you hold off buying livestock for a month or two you will have enough for a decent set of PC/VHO/MH.
Trust me the sooner you get some decent lights up the better you'll feel and the better your tank inhabitants will feel!!!
Trust me the sooner you get some decent lights up the better you'll feel and the better your tank inhabitants will feel!!!
Hi Nathan,
I have a couple questions about your anemone husbandry methods. I'm just trying to put together a picture of your setup and what you do. I understand the lighting and tank size, but what else is in the tank with the BTA? Are you saying you feed the tank nothing for 3 months and then target feed the anemones? Or are you saying you only target feed every 3 months but feed the tank regularly? I ask because I interpreted your post to be, shine really bright lights in the tank and the anemones will need no food, period. TIA
[ October 12, 2001: Message edited by: dragon0121 ]
I have a couple questions about your anemone husbandry methods. I'm just trying to put together a picture of your setup and what you do. I understand the lighting and tank size, but what else is in the tank with the BTA? Are you saying you feed the tank nothing for 3 months and then target feed the anemones? Or are you saying you only target feed every 3 months but feed the tank regularly? I ask because I interpreted your post to be, shine really bright lights in the tank and the anemones will need no food, period. TIA
[ October 12, 2001: Message edited by: dragon0121 ]
It sounds to me like Nathan has some issues with people that believe in evolution. I think if you reread the post it says that anemones will survive on just lighting, but to do well need to be fed. This may be indirect or direct. I also think Dr. Ron provides a invaluable service to these boards and nobody is correct all the time. Although I would take his best guess over others facts any day. JMO
Scott
Scott
Now, I didn't say Nathan had issues, I was just trying to get some more detail about feeding 4 times a year, and tank inhabitants. I would love to have an anemone some day, contemplating a 40g breeder with 400W MH anemone only tank
. So I'll read every last opinion I can get, and try to understand the science to the best of my abilities that each one is proposing.
To make it easy,a BTA can be kept from PC's,VHO,and MH's. The amount of light they want will be determined by them after you place them. They will move to where they think is right. Most BTAs like intense light. Feeding is also an area up for debate. But it seems that they will feed every day with out spitting up. It seems in that respect,that anemones like more food than we normally feed,but,they are certainly not afforded this much in the wild. You must gauge each anemone by the specific specimen you have. From there it is trial and error.
GL
Dan
GL
Dan
I have a rose BTA and I also have a pair of maroon gold stripes tending it. Feeding is not a probem as the clowns feed it all the time.
Lighting is mid way down a 105 tall with a MH 250 above it.
I am new to BTS's as I have only had the rose for about 3 months but it has moved only 1" since origional placement and that movement occored the first day.. And growth has been about 40%
I am a big believer in MH lighting but BTS's don't need as much light as other anemonies. Mine sure is doing quite well! I expect a split by x-mas as the animal is quite large already!
Randall
Lighting is mid way down a 105 tall with a MH 250 above it.
I am new to BTS's as I have only had the rose for about 3 months but it has moved only 1" since origional placement and that movement occored the first day.. And growth has been about 40%
I am a big believer in MH lighting but BTS's don't need as much light as other anemonies. Mine sure is doing quite well! I expect a split by x-mas as the animal is quite large already!
Randall
Here's my situation with my bubble tip anemonies:
I feed my 75g tank every other day. I have two tangs, a few other small fish and two clownfishes that live in the anemonie. I only target feed the anemonies about every three months or so. My anemonies have grown and have reproduced once sexually (both at the same time) and once asexually by division. I've had them for about two years.
Perhaps the anemonies catch tiny bits of debris when I feed, but it's not much, and not generally meaty. I feed a lot of algae foods.
I'm NOT SAYING "Don't feed them", but I think that bright light and periodic feedings are what work best. Why keep an anemonie in the dark? It's irresponsible at best and a cruel punishment at worst. Give them what they get in nature, light and food, not just one or the other.
As for "issues", the symbol used by Dr. Shimek is a sarcastic remark; sort of poking fun at the true ancient Christian symbol of the fish (Icthus). You often see the fish symbol on cars nowadays, but it was used to identify early Christians who were persecuted and some martyred by the Romans in the first centuries. Who knows, maybe he doesn't mean anything by it, but if it can be construed as insulting to a particular religious group, then why display it. It's better to keep those contraversial symbols out of public forums, especially if you are trying to promote yourself or your knowledge as Schimek appears to do. It's comparable to someone posting a supportive picture of Bin Laden. It could be offensive to those of us who understand the history of early Christianity and Roman persecution. It has nothing to do with evolution or reef keeping. Sure it could be looked at as "funny" to those who don't get it, but it certianly wouldn't be funny to those who were turtured and martyred for their beliefs during the Roman times.
-Nathan
I feed my 75g tank every other day. I have two tangs, a few other small fish and two clownfishes that live in the anemonie. I only target feed the anemonies about every three months or so. My anemonies have grown and have reproduced once sexually (both at the same time) and once asexually by division. I've had them for about two years.
Perhaps the anemonies catch tiny bits of debris when I feed, but it's not much, and not generally meaty. I feed a lot of algae foods.
I'm NOT SAYING "Don't feed them", but I think that bright light and periodic feedings are what work best. Why keep an anemonie in the dark? It's irresponsible at best and a cruel punishment at worst. Give them what they get in nature, light and food, not just one or the other.
As for "issues", the symbol used by Dr. Shimek is a sarcastic remark; sort of poking fun at the true ancient Christian symbol of the fish (Icthus). You often see the fish symbol on cars nowadays, but it was used to identify early Christians who were persecuted and some martyred by the Romans in the first centuries. Who knows, maybe he doesn't mean anything by it, but if it can be construed as insulting to a particular religious group, then why display it. It's better to keep those contraversial symbols out of public forums, especially if you are trying to promote yourself or your knowledge as Schimek appears to do. It's comparable to someone posting a supportive picture of Bin Laden. It could be offensive to those of us who understand the history of early Christianity and Roman persecution. It has nothing to do with evolution or reef keeping. Sure it could be looked at as "funny" to those who don't get it, but it certianly wouldn't be funny to those who were turtured and martyred for their beliefs during the Roman times.
-Nathan
My bubbletip
I have a bubbletip for a month now in a 50 gal 4' tank with 2x55 PCs and 1 40 watt NO actinic. although the tank has direct sunlight a couple of hours a day which may be helping. I also think that I got a really good specimen, it attached to a rock while I was accilimating it. and I put the rock in the bottom of the 18" tank with 3.5 dsb and it hasn't moved except to hide it's base from the light. I feed it a little tiny bit of chopped shrimp a couple of times a week.
I have a bubbletip for a month now in a 50 gal 4' tank with 2x55 PCs and 1 40 watt NO actinic. although the tank has direct sunlight a couple of hours a day which may be helping. I also think that I got a really good specimen, it attached to a rock while I was accilimating it. and I put the rock in the bottom of the 18" tank with 3.5 dsb and it hasn't moved except to hide it's base from the light. I feed it a little tiny bit of chopped shrimp a couple of times a week.
I have went through just about every trouble possible with a number of BTA's, and through my experience the main importances are:
At least 4 watts per gallon and A strict lighting schedule! (have lost lighting for a while, only to find the anemone has moved to a less desirable location)
Until the anemone has found its sweet spot make sure any power heads are covered! I have found both direct and indirect feeding work well (currently my rose anemone is fed scraps of brine from my tomato clown). Basically they move around the tank if they dont have the proper lighting, their light schedule has been changed, or the tank arrangement has been changed. I would also emphasize that the better the lighting the more the BTA will love it and the less it will wander.
At least 4 watts per gallon and A strict lighting schedule! (have lost lighting for a while, only to find the anemone has moved to a less desirable location)
Until the anemone has found its sweet spot make sure any power heads are covered! I have found both direct and indirect feeding work well (currently my rose anemone is fed scraps of brine from my tomato clown). Basically they move around the tank if they dont have the proper lighting, their light schedule has been changed, or the tank arrangement has been changed. I would also emphasize that the better the lighting the more the BTA will love it and the less it will wander.
There is no "watts per gallon" requirements of ANYTHING. A 40 gallon tank that is 36" tall and a 40 gallon tank that is 12" tall have VERY different lighting requirements. Thus, "watts per gallon" is misleading and useless.
Also, an HQI 150 watt bulb is the equivelent of a standard 250 watt MH bulb.
Hasta
Jim
Also, an HQI 150 watt bulb is the equivelent of a standard 250 watt MH bulb.
Hasta
Jim
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