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Hal1

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150XH tank (48x24x30H)
4 inch DSB (so a 26 inch water column)

now- FOWLR
some time down the road- reef (don't ask what, 'cause I don't know; assume the usual mix that people like)

Should I run 250W or 400W MH's? (I'll have 2, plus 2 VHO actinics).

If you pick the 400, will I have heat problems? I'm already taking out a second mortgage to afford the lights, I don't want to take out a 3rd for a chiller. I'm thinking of the Icecap Hood that will be mounted right on, or 1 inch above a glass canopy. I'd probably use Icecap ballasts for both MH and the VHO, and 1 or 2 Icecap fans.

I'm predisposed, although not adamant about the glass canopy, to prevent jumpers and to seal the tank off from my two cats, who like to jump on top of it.
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toptank

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I would have to agree with Emily about not going with 400s without a chiller. I had 250s and went to 400s and my temp went up 4-5 degrees higher. My problem is that I do not have room for a chiller. I ran 250 on a 24" deep tank without any problem but everyone was saying that 400s would be better for SPSs but not the case with me.

If I thought that I could sell these 400s for enough to but 250s again I would sell.

BArry
 

EmilyB

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I have been debating a lonnngggg time, as I have just moved my setup and am installing new lights.

From what I have been told the 400w are notoriously hot...I managed to get through a hot summer (with 250w), and would not ever want to attempt that with 400w without a chiller.
 

Hal1

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toptank,

Where you raising SPS's with the 250W's? (and clams?) If you say yes, you've just made my decision for me.
 

Len

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You'll get by fine with 250 watt Iwasakis or HQI (double ended) Ushio 10,000K. They produce the same local PAR value as 400 watt Ushios, although they have a smaller dispersal range and probably less penetrating power. SPS and clams on top, with softs, polyps, LPS, etc. on the bottom of the tank. It is a 30" tank afterall, so no matter 250 or 400, placement would've been critical to begin with - just that you have a little less flexibility.

I'd suggest building an enclosed (but fan vented) canopy so that you don't need the glass cover while impeding your cats' exploration into the tank, and your fishes' exploration out of the tank! Glass attenuates a lot of light and will effectively null most of the lumens and PAR.
 

toptank

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Hal you can look at my web site, and see what I have. Also have 7 clams and they were doing well under the 250s.

Recently I lost some nice SPS with RTN
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I feel it was the heat in the tank. I have no room for a chiller.

Again my 90 and 180 gal tank are 24" deep and the lights are in a canopy which is 10" high.

Anyone want to buy 3 400 PFO light system, let me know and I will go back to 3 x 250s

Barry

[ October 03, 2001: Message edited by: toptank ]
 

golfish

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Barry,
You shouldn't have any problem trading those ballast and bulbs for some 250's. I remember when you first setup your tank, you kept saying your temp was below 80F. I couldn't figure out how you could do that with 3x400 watters when I was running 2x250 HQI's and a 400 watter on my 150 and the temp never went below 80F (my temp runs 81-83)

What happen?


I'll probably go to a chiller next year. I run way to many fans in the tank room. The evaporation is like 5 gal a day.


Mark
 

djh

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Question you should ask? Do you want to maintain coral growth or have enough light to grow corals. I went with 400s and My acropras growth very steadily.
 

dieselboy

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I don't know about everyone else, but IME, if you're going the Iwasaki route, the 400W'rs tend to drown out all but the most powerful actinic setup. In my tank you can barely see the 2 VHO's working in conjunction with the 2X400W, and now I'll have to buy another Icecap for an additional 2 VHO's....
 

Sue Truett

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Hal, this is my 180 ecosystem sps tank. I have 3 250w 65k iwasaki's and 2 160w vho actinics. I have excellent coral color and growth. In the last 3 months I did increase my 120 lighting to 2 400w iwasaki's and 2 96w pc. actinics and have not been happy at all. These 2 tanks do not even compare. I'm with Barry, I probably will go back to the 250w iwasaki's when these run their life span. HTH...

my 180 ecosystem sps tank: http://berlinmethod.com/suet/
my 120 sps tank: www.marshreef.org/members
 

Hal1

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Sounds like 250W Iwasaki's are the way to go.

Will 2 VHO actinics do the job to supplement, or will I need 4? I'd rather buy the icecap 660 upfront than have to buy two 440's if I find out 2 vho's aren't doing the trick.

Please say 2 is enough.
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Nathan1

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I have a 75g tank. I have tried a bunch of different bulbs and my favourite are the Ushio's. They just look fantastic.

In my opinion (it's just my opinion) the Iwasaki's make my tank look greenish-yellowish. Not much, but enough that I prefer the more pure white light of the Ushio.

Also the Iwasaki's are BRIGHT. They are significantly brighter than the Ushio, but this also means that you need more actinic to balance the green/yellow.

Either way, you can't loose. Sue's tank looks fantastic, but so does mine.
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-Nathan
 

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