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ebaybrad

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left is 6500 right is 10k
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Dewman

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Have you ever seen the before, and after photos on TV, for one of those rejuvinating creams for women. In the before picture the girls hair is pulled back and she has on no make upm and no facial expression. In the after shot, she is wearing a little makeup and her hair is done nicley and she is smiling. This sort of reminds me of that.
I know this isn't the case, but it almost looks like the algae has only been scraped from one side. Amazing what proper lighting can do...
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AWD

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The right side does look better, but it appears to be less bright. If it isn't as bright then the stuff that appears on the left side is only more visible in the light not that there suddenly more of it with the magical change in light. I agree with the thought of the blue looking better, but which one do the corals like better. I don't mean to put a damper on this post, but I am not fully convinced that 10K is better than the 65K with actinics.

just a thought

Andy
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CTaylor

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the right side is one color.. BLUE.
the left has all the colors of the rainbow.

Shouldn't the corals be seen for their natural color/beauty than that what we want them or tweak them into being? A lot of corals do come from deeper blue waters.. But the right side is like a techno blue/purple. But a lot (most?) of acros and other sps and I guess LPS come from more of whiter light waters. I say appreciate the corals natural colors ... but that's just me (apparently
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Barry

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Jeesh....I am considering getting a new tank with MH lighting, and now I am less sure than ever on what kind of bulb to get. I was actually considering the 12,000 bulb from Aquatic Lighting Systems. But seeing that the 10,000 K is that bule, I may change my mind again.

Interesting to see the difference
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Barry
 

pez

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Which 10KK lamp is this? Not all 10KK lamps are *that* blue. I am also assuming the Iwasaki is not supplemented at all?

Oh, one final note. If you don't like all the blue, you can add some white lamps instead of supplemental actinic.

-Tom

[ December 29, 2001: Message edited by: pez ]</p>
 

slojmn1

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I just put on 10k's in place of my 6500k Iwasakis. I love the difference. It was time to change bulbs and I thought I would give the 10k's a chance. I really like the difference. I am hoping some of my corals color up a bit more. I have one bulb that looked a lot greener/dimmer than the other 10k. I swapped the bulbs and it appeared fine. I am going to give it a few more days, hopefully it will stay a nice, crisp white.
 

slojmn1

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I would supplement if you could. i agree a blue techno tank is not my idea of nice to look at but niether is the yellow/grren cast. I supplemented my 65k iwasakis with 4x110w Actinic. I think I would, in the future, try a actinic and white supplementation with the Iwasakis. Presently I have 2x400w 10k's supplemented with 2 actinic and 2 50/50 bulbs. It creates a nice white, although I may try and swap one of the 50/50 VHO bulbs with a trichromatic 110w VHO and see what it does. It is just a matter of finding the right balance. My tank is not dimmer in my opinion running the 10k's, maybe a tad dimmer but the color is more pleasing to my eye.
 
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Anonymous

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As pez so aptly pointed out, not all 10K's are the same. Folks the marketed color temp of a bulb doesn't mean diddly squat as to the performance of the bulb. Those VERY blue 10K's such as Blueline, EURO and the 12K ALS (which for all intents and purposes are the same bulb) don't have SQUAT for output and par they are in the same category as the 175W 10K Coraldeath IMO. If you run the very blue bulbs you actually NEED to run supplemental white in order to get enough energy into your tank or you should be running 1-2 steps up in recommended wattage for the tank depth.

If you can't tolerate the yellow of a 6500K Iwasaki and can't add enough supp blue, then pick a white 10K aka 'German' bulb.
 

EmilyB

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Interesting article in the Marine 2002 annual. The 10kk 250w Aqualines have almost three times the PAR of the 12kk.
 

redneck

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Personally, I'm convinced you have the wrong Iwasaki.

Just for laughs, in the pic below, which side of the tank is running the 2 month old 400W Ushio 10K and which is running the 14 month old 250W Iwasaki? (Yes, they are supplemented by VHO actinics. 6 footers, so it's even).

http://home.attbi.com/~ggasser2/10Kvs65k.jpg

[ December 29, 2001: Message edited by: Redneck Cowboy ]</p>
 
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Anonymous

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You are kiddin me right? CROP YOUR DAMN PICTURES!


I'd say the 10K german is on the right since it has the green look. Ushios seem to be running very green lately.

CROP CROP CROP CROP CROP CROP CROP CROP
 

redneck

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LOL! I just figured out how to take a bad picture with the damn thing! 'Crop'? You mean save it as a smaller image?

BTW, You're wrong. It's the left.

I changed it to a link. I was beginning to worry about the state of mind of folks from Nashua, NH. Maybe it's the water. Let's see, there was Cirrus, John@Carline....

[ December 29, 2001: Message edited by: Redneck Cowboy ]</p>
 

HARRISON

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The bluelines are really blue. I don't like a tank that is too blue but then I wouldn't want an eerie yellow or green either. I use 250w blulines then I added 2 55w PC's, on of which is a 10k the other a actinic. I am very please with the color.

Colors of the rainbow my foot. If it is washed out and yellow looking I will stick with the techno version hahah.

and if my 250 watt halides aren't putting out enough light someone better tell my clams cause they seem to like it
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Anonymous

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Redneck Cowboy:
<strong>LOL! I just figured out how to take a bad picture with the damn thing! 'Crop'? You mean save it as a smaller image?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Either downsize the image and crop out the unncessary parts, i.e. your stand is nice but I don't need to see it =)

Sorry it's just that pic is gigantic and is a huge waste of bandwidth it taks a lot for people to download that monster and as you could see makes the message forum get all funky trying to fit it in.

Cirrus and John@Carline are one in the same and don't you dare compare me to him!
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redneck

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No Prob. Sorry about the comparison.
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*nod* on the crop. Now I understand. After reading about all the photographic options on the camera my head is swimming.

Never had a camera before...
 

6_line

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Hi,
I'm curious of the age of the Iwasakis--the older style were a bit more yellow than the new ones out now. I have 2x250 watt Iwasakis and it looks nowhere near that yellow (although I do have 2x110 watt actinics going as well).
I personally prefer the more natural crisp white light of the 6500K's. Of course, the blue looks nice, but as mentioned, somewhat artifical and I ponder the growth rate differences between the two types of bulbs.
Plus, the iwasakis offer more bang for the buck with longer life and cheaper price. Plus the ballasts were only $23 a piece!

Todd
 
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Anonymous

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It's because as I said before, color temp which was once a useful measure has been raped in the sake of marketing.

5 years ago the choices for MH bulbs were pretty slim. You had a 5500K bulb, a 6500K from Coralife in 175W, the Iwasaki 65's, the 10K Coraldeath, the 10K Germans and the 14K Belgian/20K Radiums

The 10,000K Germans became very popular, because of the clean white light. Some people would then add ALOT of actinic to get a deeper blue look as well. When you looked at what was popular what was being said in online forums and what was selling etc the manufacturers kept hearing the mantra "10K, 10K, 10K, 10K, 10K, 10K" it was like a Gregorian Chant to them.

Since then with the exception of the 12K ALS bulb anything that has come out since has had the label 10K slapped on it regardless of what the actual CCT was. In fact if Venture Lighting tomorrow slapped a 10K label on their 5500K bulb most people wouldn't care and I'm betting their sales would go up.

Thus when you are buying a bulb talk to someone who has actually seen it. If it doesn't say "German" and it's a 10-12K bulb you can expect it to be very blue. The problem with the blue bulbs is that while they look okay to many their actual performance compared to the Germans or the lower K bulbs is pretty horrid when it comes to PAR and lumen output.

The great 12K ALS migration of 2000 was comical to watch. December/January the bulb hit the market and people snapped them up like crazy. Within 90 days most people were back with what they had before either from the failure rate of the bulb or because of the huge drop in PAR that resulted when they went from a 250 Iwasaki to the 12K bulb and their corals started to be unhappy.
 

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