RODI Question

[nyc reefer]

I have recently moved my RODI from the basement to the second floor under my kitchen sink. My water pressure gauge mounted to the membrane housing reads 24PSI is this normal? Sounds low to me, I used to get around 50PSI when mounted in the basement sink. I also changed the membrane to a SpectraPure 90gpd/99% rejection from the Standard SpectraPure 90gpd membrane, and all pre filters, and MaxCap resin cartridges. I'm thinking of installing a pressure pump. Do you think I need it? One more thing I replaced the restrictor/flush valve to a caterpillar restrictor.


Thanks

 

[Johnny Spesis]

Your going up fighting gravity. I'm assuming your water pipes are of same diameter, by going up, water loses pressure. Your RODI pump would need to be larger. So your not changing that! Deal with the less pressure, it should be enough to do the job.

 

[nyc reefer]

RODI Cartridge

Thanks, if anything the amount of product water seems to be made at the same rate, strange right?

 

[theMeat]

Doubt you're loosing 25psi by going up 1 floor. Product water not going down is not strange. The waste water went down and that's what keeps the membrane clean. The ratio for waste/product should be 4 to 1 or greater to get a reasonable lifespan out of the membrane. Another possibility is the particle and/or carbon block is clogged.

Where/how is the ro unit connected to the sink?
What size flow restrictor?
What is the tds reading coming out as product?

 

[House of Laughter]

if you saddle valved the RO under the sink, that's the problem. Only so much can get through a tiny piercing of the saddle valve.

House

 

[OrangeCountyCorals]

Your gunna want atleast 50-60psi going through your rodi. For proper filtration and less rejection rate. your best bet is to get a booster pump. But that's only if your filters and membrane are good. When's the last time you changed them? What's the tds in and out? Did you flush the membrane?

 

[theMeat]

40-45 psi is acceptable. Even lower is good if you compensate with the flow restrictor. Even in higher elevations of Staten Island, don't see water pressure being a problem to the point of needing a booster pump, unless there's an unusual plumbing issue going on.

 

[salpet]

just get a pump and it will pay for itself in water savings

 

[theMeat]

water is probably cheaper than electric, but either way, how so?

 

[BioMan]

+1 Booster pump. Mine registered 20-25 and the pump brings mine up to 75

 

[nyc reefer]

Rodi

All filters are new including the upgraded membrane, and new flow restrictor 90ga to match new SpectraPure 90gpd w/99% rejection. As far as TDS going in approx 50ppm from the tap, after the membrane 0-tds, and after the two SpectraPure Max Cap filters 0-TDS. As the RODI was making water for a while the pressure went up to approx 32psi I can live with that. Might consider the pump down the road though.

 

[theMeat]

If you're using a saddle tap screw the tap all the way in, and all the way back out to make sure water has as big and clear a path as possible. If it's attached to the end of a faucet remove the water saver washer. Should lose about 1 psi for every 2-2 1/2 feet vertically.
guessing you took out the other/old flow restrictor

 

[nyc reefer]

Rodi

Yes, I removed the old restrictor. I'm getting approx 35-38psi now moved it to the laundry room in the second floor, no saddle valve. Bought a Y splitter to feed the washer and the RODI this is giving me more pressure. I have to hit Lowes this morning to buy a new kitchen sink drain. I have the hole where the RODI would drain into it.

 

[nyc reefer]

Rodi

Picture of the RODI mounted on the wall makes for easy filter changes in the future.

 

[airwaterice]

This setup will perform very poor on your psi...that membrane is rated at 65 psi...you have less than 50...you need a booster pump...no way you get over 90% rejection out of that membrane and less than 75 gpd production...I have a booster pump for $129 on my website.. it is very easy to use and plug and play...additionally I would get a 99% rejection membrane rated at 50 psi like my 75 gpd Dow filmtec...there is a reason they are a billion dollar company and why I exclusively sell these type of membranes...THEY WORK!!!

http://airwaterice.com/pumps/booster-pump-power-station-for-reefkeepers.html

I am a club sponsor and I support the club so any questions please let me know. PLUS Use your Manhattan reefs 10% club discount code (07150) in your shopping cart at www.airwaterice.com today!

Chris
772-461-0256
[email protected]

 

[nyc reefer]

Rodi

I think moving my RODI from under the sink to the laundry room helped with the flow. Pressure gauge registering high 60's psi, under the sink I was using a pierce valve.

@Chris/Air Water Ice thanks for the discount, I'll be ordering that booster pump and an additional float valve for my new Brute garbage can.

 

[theMeat]

That's weird Chris. My house has 60-65 psi coming in, @ upwards of 170tds. After a whole house water filter, and across the house to the sink where the ro is hooked up, pressure is down around 40-45 and tds around 110. If the whole house filter is dirty pressure gets much lower. My last membrane, 75 gpd, lasted me over 5 years, and resin probably around 3, when i noticed tds went up to 4, production dropped off, and resin changed color i changed them, and switched to 100gpd. That was 6 mos ago and everything is aok again. i do change my 1 micron particle filter when it gets dirty, about every 6 mos, and run 2 carbons that get changed every year.

 

[theMeat]

Nycreefer. Would run a drain/emergency overflow from the top of your bucket just above the float switch for when it fails.

 

[nyc reefer]

Rodi

@themeat can you explain a little what you mean about the emergency drain? I should run a drain line above the float valve draining into my washer's drain like I have the RODI waste water?

Thanks

 

[theMeat]

@themeat can you explain a little what you mean about the emergency drain? I should run a drain line above the float valve draining into my washer's drain like I have the RODI waste water?

Thanks

Yeah. Not the little 1/4" stuff. Would go at least 3/4" to a drain pipe or slop sink. So when the float switch no worky it doesn't over flow out of bucket. Put it in a separate hole, above where the float switch should bring the water level so when the float valve is normally working it doesn't interfere. Obviously you should plumb it from bucket, downward, with gravity, to drain.