- Location
- Staten Island , Princess Bay
Rowaphos , water changes and rinse my frozen food off before putting in tank and of coarse I trim my cheato promoting growth .
How Do You Keep Your Phos Down
- Thread starter brick-brothers
- Start date
- Location
- bronx
home made algae scrubber,phosban reactor,cheato and mangroves levels 42 fish all levels at 0
- Location
- Forked River, New Jersey
yes it gets packed tightly, i have the unit from air water and ice, the di chamber is a sealed unit(which gave me 0.00 p04 at my old house and 0 TDS as well, once in the new place (new filters) i was getting those readings, AWI told me add a DI chamber so i got another chamber from BRS and got the color changing resin, packed it tightly and the tds went away but p04 was not affected.. after speaking with a few RODI companies they all said DI does not reduce phosphates alone, between the RO unit which helps reduce in conjunction with the DI chamber but it is not meant to eliminate the p04, i was then instructed by BRS as well as someone from here (who has a beautiful 400g system in SI) to add the p04 eliminator as the last stage, i know some use a lanthium drip into the top off resevoir before it goes into the tank..
since then ive had a signifigantly lover p04 reading but it still leaches out of the rocks and sand, since it was getting a constant flow of p04 for years an doesnt evaporate but rather condense(like salt if you were to keep adding salt in your top off.. so thats y i use an agressive method for removing p04 from the tank itself but drilling a hole in the top of my skimmer lid adding the doser line and letting it drip the lanthium right into the effluent of the skimmer which then eliminates the p04 out of the system instead of using the filter sock method..
ive also noticed the skimmer much went from a light brown to black tarry mud so i know its working..
- Location
- Pennsylvania
I'm going to buy more resin and see what happens.
- Location
- Queens, NY
Im about to get a phosban setup into my tank. Im dealing with really bad GHA and purple cyno, even after a 5 day blackout. i have a 29g and a 10g sump, so im gonna buy a reactor and dose H202. Hopefully this works out
- Location
- Pennsylvania
Just curious the last chamber with the gfo, how much gfo do you put in that chamber?
Check out this thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2366953
- Location
- Old Bethpage
Interesting read. Boomer has a buddy Richard Ross who's got an AMAZING tank and his PO4 is .90. I'm still amazed that that.
Motor, what size DI canister did you use to put your GFO in?
Did it come empty or did it come prefilled with DI and you dumped out the DI and put GFO in?
And last, how much GFO did you put in the canister?
Thanks.
- Location
- Pennsylvania
that was a great article. My question is even though the po4 is high, how often do you clean the glass?
- Location
- Forked River, New Jersey
OK the DI that is part of the system is sealed and is replaced by replacing the component as for the second DI chamber I used a BRS dual chamber reactor, first chamber with DI color changing resin packed in. Second and last chamber is the GFO which is about 3/4 full with the filter padding on top and bottom with a little filter floss to pack it tight So the water doest stir it around. I test it monthly for a rise in po4 readings. It usually lasts about 3-4 months before I have to replace the GFO. I top off about 3 gallons a day and make 50 gallons every 3-4 weeks.
- Location
- Forked River, New Jersey
And back when I had my coral propagation system, I found that while I did run a zeo reactor on it I found that if I kept my po4 at about 0.06-.08 I had the beat color and polyp extension. When I got it down to 0.00-0.02 I started loosing the depth in color and it started getting thin looking. Which some people like the ULNS look, but I didn't.
- Location
- Old Bethpage
Ah. So you use a BRS Dual Reactor. Very interesting. Thanks.
- Location
- Forked River, New Jersey
Yes along with a 5 stageRO/DI unit.
- Location
- Old Bethpage
Well, after 3 weeks, PO4 started to creep up on my water supply after the dual DI's and they barely started to change tan. I went ahead and did what Motortrendz did and added a canister of GFO after the DI's. I'm back to 0.00 PO4 with water on demand. I figure I'll test in 3 weeks to gauge when to change out the GFO. At first I filled it half way and I was getting a lot of GFO granules in the output. Filled it to the top and it solved the problem. I'm utilizing an empty DI canister and chamber from BRS.
- Location
- Westchester
Rowaphos in a reactor..
Replenish every 3 weeks.
Replenish every 3 weeks.
- Location
- Mt Sinai, NY
Got a pic of the lanthium skimmer drip setup?
How much do you drip and what size system?
How much do you drip and what size system?
- Location
- Old Bethpage
Thanks Fasthackem. I was thinking about using Rowaphos. I'll use up the rest of my GFO and switch to Rowaphos.
- Location
- Westchester
Don't substitute. There are a lot of other products out there that are aluminum based. They don't work nearly as well. Best results if fluidized in a reactor. I always rinse first to get most of the brown out. Follow the instructions.
Also, if you're using an ATO, test that water as well.
Also, if you're using an ATO, test that water as well.
- Location
- staten island
i built a diy algae scrubber with alot of help from here https://www.turbosaquatics.com/portal/
floyd is top notch.
floyd is top notch.
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