re:chillers, where do I put this one?
- Thread starter jhale
- Start date
well guys i got the chiller working.
but it was not the controller, it was a much less high tech problem. I did receive the new controller today and swapped them. the same thing happened. with the cover off i saw the problem, the fan was not turning at all. the cage around the fan had been bent and was preventing the fan from spinning. so the compressor was coming on and shutting off due to the heat. I hope that did not hurt the chiller at all.
I fixed the cage and had to bend the fan back into proper alignment which was a huge huge pain in the you know what.
after fixing the fan it seems to be working.
thanks for the offers of help, I hope this chiller lasts a long long time. by the way it's also very quiet, I can barley here it over the room a/c.
but it was not the controller, it was a much less high tech problem. I did receive the new controller today and swapped them. the same thing happened. with the cover off i saw the problem, the fan was not turning at all. the cage around the fan had been bent and was preventing the fan from spinning. so the compressor was coming on and shutting off due to the heat. I hope that did not hurt the chiller at all.
I fixed the cage and had to bend the fan back into proper alignment which was a huge huge pain in the you know what.
after fixing the fan it seems to be working.
thanks for the offers of help, I hope this chiller lasts a long long time. by the way it's also very quiet, I can barley here it over the room a/c.
bad coffee
Inept at life.
- Location
- Location: Location:
way to go! Glad it works, and it's quiet!
BC
BC
it's been a long time since I've seen this temp.
the room temp is really 80, that other one is jacked up because it's attached to the hood ie: hot lights.
my next project is dealing with this, the chiller and rubbermaid container / reservoir. I'm going to have to make a bench for the chiller, and I'm going to have to figure something out to change the reservoir.
the room temp is really 80, that other one is jacked up because it's attached to the hood ie: hot lights.
my next project is dealing with this, the chiller and rubbermaid container / reservoir. I'm going to have to make a bench for the chiller, and I'm going to have to figure something out to change the reservoir.
I upgraded the chillers plumbing. the vinyl tubing was kinking and cutting the flow back to much. so I went with the spa-flex it works great! the chiller will live next to the tank for now. I may look for a chiller that can fit in the space between the tank and bookcase. that would be next winter when the chiller is not needed.
yes thats the same thing when condenser fan is not working the pressure goes high wich cause the ampage to go high allso and the compresser overload will open to protect the compressor from burning out,a dirty condener coil will cause the same thing allso
frank
frank
CHiller Update
After last summer's experience with the chiller I decided this time the chiller is going in the fireplace.
Using the head loss calculator on rc I figured out the lowest wattage pump to run the chiller off a closed loop from the sump is a quiet one 4000, 50 watts.
another order from savko and I'll be on my way. I hope sitting in the fireplace will allow the hot air to escape easily. I also hope running it as a closed loop from the sump will keep the tank cool.
After last summer's experience with the chiller I decided this time the chiller is going in the fireplace.
Using the head loss calculator on rc I figured out the lowest wattage pump to run the chiller off a closed loop from the sump is a quiet one 4000, 50 watts.
another order from savko and I'll be on my way. I hope sitting in the fireplace will allow the hot air to escape easily. I also hope running it as a closed loop from the sump will keep the tank cool.
John, I know running a pump on and off isn't the best way to go, but do you plan to only run the pump only when the chiller is on? I've done this in the past where my pump turned on at .5 degrees above my target temp and my chiller kicked on at 1 degree above my target temp. Both would shut down when my target temp was reached. This kept me from having to run a pump 24/7 for no reason. It seemed to work fine, but I didn't keep this going long term, only about a month.
I was planning on running the pump full time.
The chiller has it's built in controller, I don't know how I would be able to mod it to control the pump as well. It's okay though, in the summer months my chiller is on a good part of the time. The living room with it's 20' high green house glass ceilings can hit 100 degree's if the a/c is not on.
The chiller has it's built in controller, I don't know how I would be able to mod it to control the pump as well. It's okay though, in the summer months my chiller is on a good part of the time. The living room with it's 20' high green house glass ceilings can hit 100 degree's if the a/c is not on.
20' ceilings... must be nice. I can't put anything over a 7 foot christmas tree in my house. If the chiller will be running a good part of the time, then the pump will need to be too. My chiller only comes on once a day, usually during the last hour or 2 of my photoperiod. Having your sump in a cool basement has several advantages. I didn't want to run the pump full time. Since the chiller had a built in thermostat, I used that to control the chiller and my octipus controller ran my pump on the chillers settings. I was able to do whatever I wanted. I stopped for several reasons, most of which were my own guesses of things that can possibly go wrong (hydrogen sulfide build-up in the chiller while pumps were off? wear on the pump?) Niether of these happened but I was wondering if anyone had tried this long term. How long would it take hydrogen sulfide to build?
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