Set up UGF and Heater Help!

[Dakwota]

Hey!

Just wondering whats the best way to set up a UGF.

I have a dual outlet powerhead but 1 end isnt working, so I have a spare single from an old tank which im going to use.

There will be 2 uplift pipes (?) and 2 power heads but I was wondering that the hell goes on with the rest of the tubing etc?

I pulled all of it apart and forgot what goes where!

I have this little device which has two hose ends and what looks like a whistle in the middle. Also, 3 of these hose connectors with air valves which look like they control how much air goes through.

I've searched the forums and on google but wondered if someone could link me or tell me every STEP BY STEP to successfully set up my UGF (this tank is only costing me fish!). Basically the manufactors insructions on setting it up to aid me with my set up.

Thanks soooo much and I hope i've been clear enough.

__________________________________________________ _

Also, I have a Jager heater which is around 10 years old.

It was a dial on the top with 0-10.

What setting should it be at for tropical fish?It's a 54L tank and 75W heater. Probably Clown loaches and that group.

Thanks!
(degrees would also be appreaciated!)

 

[Rob Top]

The best way to set up a UGF is to walk over to the trash can, open it, and drop it in.
Seriously, UGF are not the best way to go in a fish tank and may very well be the worst way to go in a reef. If you can give us an idea of what you want to keep in the tank myself or someone else here can give you several other options. UGF tend to collect crap under the plate which adds to the waste in the system and leads to poor water quality. Even well very maintained tanks with UGF will build up waste under the plate. The heater should have one of the numbers undelined or circled, 7 or 8, which is the "ideal" setting. I see you mentioned clown loach, is this for freshwater or salt.

 

[Sponge_Bob]

The heater should have one of the numbers undelined or circled, 7 or 8, which is the "ideal" setting. I see you mentioned clown loach, is this for freshwater or salt.

First, on what basis do you say that a circled number is the "ideal" setting for a tank? Aren't you are assuming it is for salt water. What if it is set for goldfish or an Oscar... or whatever? There is no such things as an "ideal" temperature setting on heater. There are ideal temperatures for different tanks and fish.

Secondly, a clown loach is a FW water species that is part of the cat fish category if you will. It is slow growing, it's maximum length is about 12 to 14 inches, adult size. It can live up to 50 years.

Back on topic... UGF and reef is not the way to go for sure and I totally agree with Rob on this. Please supply more information as to what you wish to keep in your salt water aquarium and what size it is. Also, what equipment you have on hand.

As for your Jäger heater, you may contact the company to inquire on what those numbers (graduations) mean. Or you can use a thermometer to check what each digit correspond to what temperature.

HTH

 

[Omni2226]

Most makers of heaters have "ideal" settings which are almost always 78 degrees F.

There is nothing wrong with undergravel filters.
They do exactly what they are designed to do, act as nutrient sinks.
People got into trouble with UGF because they tried to maintain then by cleaning/vacuming the gravel. This is the worst thing to do. The secret to a UGF is to totaly ignore it. It can and will maintain itself.

I can show you a post were a guy has had a Reef system on a UGF for over 30 years. After 25 years he decided to clean one side to see what was under it. What he found was basicaly nothing. Minute amounts of inert minerals (what I call rock dust).

But see UGF are ancient technology so people think they suck. But this is all just my opinion and is a whole nother topic to talk about.

If you arent sure how to set up a UGF then I suggest using hang on tank filters and a few power heads in the tank to move the water around real good.

 

[Sponge_Bob]

Most makers of heaters have "ideal" settings which are almost always 78 degrees F.

Yeah... ALMOST ALWAYS. Would you trust your established reef and valuable fish and corals to an "almost always" setting? I would not and I certainly don't question the validity of Dakwota's post to inquire as to what those numbers correspond to in terms of temperature degrees.

 

[Dakwota]

I want to set up the tank to hold clown loaches http://www.fishprofiles.com/files/profiles/637.htm .
And fish which are compatible with those.

So a freshwater tank.

I've had a bit of a muck around with the filters and I think I know how it goes.

Air Pump - Tubing - Airstone inside Uplift Tube.

Is that it?

The reason I don't want to go buy another filter is because this tank is only costing me the fish and water conditioners and fish! This was all donated to me from my mums work.

The tank is 2ft by 1ft by 1ft. So 54 litres.

I'm going to fill the tank up today and run the filters and heater to test all is well.

If I'm setting up a freshwater tank, would I use just Goldfish water conditioner, Sera Nitrivec "biostarter" and Sera Aquatan "VBC-Stress Protection".

I use those products in my gold fish tank but was wondering if its the same conditioners for this freshwater tank.

Thanks for your help so far and I hope more comes!!!

Lastly, I'm going to be using the UGF for now until i have a bit more money either to upgrade this tank or buy a 4ft Marine tank.

 

[Omni2226]

Yep thats about it the plates go in the bottom with the tubes.

Add gravel. Then drop the airstone with airline attached into the tubes. The bubbles will "lift" the water causing it to flow down through the gravel and back up the tube. I never cared for all the racket a airpump makes so I use small powerheads.

 

[Dakwota]

Is the whole UGF meant to be submearged in the water?


Thanks!

 

[fyrefysh]

I believe so, just not the air pump!

 

[Anonymous]

The plates go under the grave the lift tubes need to be fully submerged. The air stones need to be near the bottom of the lift tubs if you go that route. As for the hearter. Before you put fish in the tank. Start with the heater at a lower setting than you think you will need and work your way up over a few days. Always have a back up thermometer in the tank. I have had more than one heater stick on.

This should be in the fresh water fourm. I hope some one moves it to where you will get better answers.

OH and

:welcome:

 

[ChrisRD]

Moved to the freshwater forum.

 

[Dakwota]

Ok, I've just set it all up and put the heater on "7".

I'm running both filters off the one "single output" air pump. The dual was noisy and stupid.

So in the tubing I've put a splitter.

Now the cold tap water was 18 Degrees celcius and now im waiting until tonight to check if it heats up.

But the thing I want to know of most is can I use Goldfish Water Conditioner for this tank? I want to start the conditioners ASAP.

(I will be using it as fresh water tank).

Thanks! oh and thanks for moving it :wink:

 

[Rob Top]

Sponge bob, are your square pants to tight? Simmer a bit. When I say "ideal" the quotes mean, read lossly. He says tropical so 78-80 is actually ideal and the marked number on a Jager heater is actually ideal for that situation. Further he tells us it is a clown loach, I just wanted to confirm that is what he meant, as this is the reef forum, not the FW one.
Cheers

 

[Dakwota]

I've got my single output air pump running into both of these UGFs.

Would it be beneficial and less noisy if I bought a simple power head and ran them both through this? Would it pump 150+ L/ph?

I mainly want the less noisy bit. This air pump is ridiculous...

Thanks

 

[Rob Top]

Yes you can. Hagen makes a modle the is reverseable so you blow water down under the plate and up through the gravle. Same concept as a standard UGF, just reversed. Doing this helps keep the area under the plate cleaner.

 

[Dakwota]

So the same type of filteration only better?

Would it be better running a reversible or normal? I'm get abit confused with these :?

Also, are they alot quieter than air pumps?

Thanks!

 

[Dakwota]

Ok, I went down to my LFS this morning and asked alot of questions about filtration.

He suggested a Hydor Power head which was around $67 (AUS Prices).

In the end I opted for a Hydor Crystal Duo R0511. Which is a Internal power filter. It cost $83AUD. Also I believe Hydors to be the best power filters I've seen and used.

The reason I went with this is because it's more compatible than the UGF would've been and was only $20 more.

So now if I decide to buy a bigger freshwater tank in the future I can convert this to a Marine tank as I'm not using a UGF.

Do you think this was a good idea? I think it will be in the long run :wink: .

Also, tomorrow i'm going to buy a pair of danios or barbs (cant remember what he showed me ) to use as hearty cycling fish.

I'm thinking of putting an Angel fish or two in there eventually and maybe a few albino cats or sharks.

We'll see how things pan out :wink:

Well thanks for reading my essay and oppinions on my filter and fish choices or suggestions would be MUCH appreaciated!

 

[Anonymous]

The best way to set up a UGF is to walk over to the trash can, open it, and drop it in.
Seriously, UGF are not the best way to go in a fish tank and may very well be the worst way to go in a reef. If you can give us an idea of what you want to keep in the tank myself or someone else here can give you several other options. UGF tend to collect crap under the plate which adds to the waste in the system and leads to poor water quality. Even well very maintained tanks with UGF will build up waste under the plate. The heater should have one of the numbers undelined or circled, 7 or 8, which is the "ideal" setting. I see you mentioned clown loach, is this for freshwater or salt.

hehe agreed-they're one the more inefficient biofilters out there, especially with the advent of the biowheel

there's no major paractical diff. between reverse flow and reg. flow-the dirt still gets trapped in the UG