It's not that the CB BF is eating but that it's eating the correct thing to keep it alive. Eating Mysis, Brine Shrimp, and either clams or mussels on the shell, something that LFS will do to try and get CB BF to eat, isn't what the fish requires to survive long term, or in most case even short term. So getting what the CB BF is eating at the store isn't something that you should do, especially if it's not what is needed to keep the fish alive long term.
Well, yes, that's true -- however, it's a given that you're going to have to wean this animal onto other foods, and the fact that it's actively eating -something- is both a good sign and it means that you'll be able to keep it alive for an extended time while you're attempting to get it to eat a broader range of foods. It's the difference between a fish dying in a couple of weeks and one that'll last for months and months, even if you're not feeding it quite the right thing, which gives you plenty of time to get it to eat the right things.
Having the critter feeder-trained makes it easier to get it familiar with other types of food, too.
Anyway, within three days I had it switched over from PE Mysis to H2O Life Mini-Mysis, which is both more appropriately sized for its mouthparts and a marine mysi
d shrimp, so, along with whatever it eats in the tank and Selcon fortification, I think it's getting adequate and appropriate nutrition. The switch from regular mysis to saltwater mysid shrimp is, well, a non-issue, given that they pretty much look and apparently taste similar to eachother.
Sizes wise, the smaller ones seem to do a lot better, as the larger ones don't seem to adapt to prepared foods or being kept in captivity. Larger ones also attract more attention from other fish, and usually are attacked and bullied, which more than not results in a dead fish. Which is very important that tank mates are peaceful, which eliminates a lot of fish, especially Tangs. A good size tank with plenty of hiding space will also help. In the end most CB BF die, even the best specimens.
Agreed. I think the main reason these fish die in captivity is simply because they're skittish and dealing with unfamiliar food sources. I've seen my CBB eye a tidbit for a good couple of minutes before deciding to eat it, and the least little thing bothered it, at least at first, and interrupts the feeding cycle. This is why I recommend making a feeder like I described previously: it keeps the food in one place for the fish, and it's a more natural feeding mode anyway. (That fish is designed to poke its snout into cracks and crevices and such to winkle out worms and pods, and a PVC pipe full of tasty shrimp flesh plays well to that behavior.)
(I was worried at first because even the cleaner shrimp were scaring the fish off with their attentions. But apparently it decided that food was the better part of valor, and after ripping half of the antennae off of one cleaner shrimp that got too personal, it's started bum-rushing them out of the way, and even whirling on my clownfish to snap at it when the clown starts acting like the damsel schmuck it is. I'm happy it's not a complete wuss. Oh, and the cleaner shrimp's antennae grew back when it molted the next week.)
If you're gonna add a CBB, I'd add it as one of the first fish in the tank, and I definitely wouldn't add it to a tank that already contains tangs or aggo damsels or anything like that. (Seriously, I wouldn't even add this fish to a FOWLR if it had an established pair of clownfish in it that -weren't- hosting in an anemone. When clownfish aren't hosting, their aggro knows no bounds -- when they are, it's about 4" from the anemone.
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) While I'm planning on adding a tang (a hippo tang,) the tang'll be significantly smaller than the CBB when it goes in, and they're dissimilar shapes and colors anyway. Ultimately, I'm going to try and add a flame angel, but if it picks on my corals or on the CBB, it's coming right out again.
It would also definitely help if you could add it to a tank with a well-established population of larger amphipods, worms of all sorts, and mysid shrimp. This way it can forage and at least partially supplement its diet.
Any kind of marine husbandry is a bit of a crapshoot for the organisms involved, and, frankly, if it weren't for people who kept buying fish that kept dying and trying to figure out how to keep them alive longer, we wouldn't have the wonderful reef tank systems we do now.
...Of course, the important part there is that the people who kept buying the fish that kept dying kept trying new things to keep the fish alive. It's unconscionable to just buy a fish that's pretty much doomed in your tank 'cause it's pretty. (Most of those little blue-lined cleaner wrasses, for example.) It's another thing when you buy a fish that demonstrably -can- thrive in captivity but has a poor record of surviving in the hands of aquarists, particularly when you've done a lot of research on what exactly the fish needs to survive, and you're willing to give that fish the extra attention (both literally and in terms of things like thinking out your stocking list/stocking order beforehand.)
As to the aptasia control -- well, it looks like mine's been picking at them, but hasn't wiped 'em out. And even if the fish doesn't eat your aptasia, it's still a beautiful fish.
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It seems about 50/50, from what I've heard from other people. I admit that I initially bought mine in the hopes that it would control aptasia, having tried and failed with other methods, both biological and chemical/mechanical. However, I realized well before I bought it that it might not eat 'em. *shrugs*